HE  STAG 


COOKaBOOK 


C.  MAC/SHERmAN 


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3  ^ISB  D13DSS7fi  D 


GAYLORD  RG 


The  Stag  Cook  Booh 

C.  MAC  SHERIDAN 


THE  STAG  COOK  BOOK 

WRirrEN  FOR  MEN  BT  MEN 

COLLECTED  AND    EDITED 

by 

C.  MAC  SHERIDAN 

With  an  Introduction  by 
ROBERT  H.  DAVIS 


NEW  YORK 
GEORGE  H.  DORAN  COMPANY 


COPYRIGHT,    1922, 
BY  GEORGE  H.  DORAN  COMPANY 


'8/01 


THE  STAG  COOK  BOOK.     II 


PRINTED  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES  OF  AMERICA 


Dedicated  To — 

THAT  GREAT  HOST 
OF  BACHELORS  AND  BENEDICTS  ALIKE 

who  have  at  one  time  or  another 
tried  to  "cook  something";  and 
who,  in  the  attempt,  have  weak- 
ened under  a  fire  of  fem.inine 
raillery  and  sarcasm,  only  to 
spoil  what,  under  more  favora- 
ble circumstances,  would  have 
proved  a  chef-d'oeuvre. 


^^They  may  live  without  houses  and  live  without 
books/' 

So  the  saying  has  gone  through  the  ages, 
''But  a  civilized  man  cannot  live  without  cooks — ^' 

It's  a  lib  el,  as  proved  by  these  pages! 
For  when  left  by  himself  in  a  small  kitchenette, 

With  a  saucepan,  a  spoon  and  a  kettle, 
A  man  can  make  things  that  you'll  never  forget — 

That  will  put  any  cook  on  her  mettle. 

Where  camp  fires  glow  through  the  still  of  the 
night. 

Where  grills  are  electric  and  shiny. 
Where  kitchens  are  huge,  done  in  tiling  of  white, 

Where  stoves  are  exceedingly  tiny, 
Where  people  are  hungry — no  matter  the  place — 

A  man  can  produce  in  a  minute 
A  dish  to  bring  smiles  to  each  skeptical  face, 

With  art — and  real  food  value — in  it! 

At  range  and  at  oven,  at  {whisper  it!)  still, 

A  man  is  undoubtedly  master; 
His  cooking  is  done  with  an  air  and  a  skill. 

He's  sure  as  a  woman — and  faster! 
He  may  break  the  dishes  and  clutter  the  floor, 

And  if  he  is  praised — he  deserves  it — 
He  may  flaunt  his  prowess  until  he's  a  bore.  .  .  . 

But,  Boy,  what  he  serves — when  he  serves  it! 


[vii] 


INTRODUCTION 
By  Robert  H.  Davis 

Cooking  is  a  gift,  not  an  art.  Eating  is  an  art,  not 
a  gift.  In  combination  a  grace  is  developed.  No  great 
culinar)^  triumph  was  ever  perfected  by  accident. 

Charles  Lamb's  essay  on  roast  pig  was  responsible 
for  a  tidal  wave  of  burnt  pork  that  swept  over  England 
in  the  nineteenth  century.  Mr.  Lamb  led  a  hungry  em- 
pire to  the  belief  that  only  through  an  act  of  incendiarism 
could  a  suckling  porker  be  converted  into  a  delicacy; 
whereas,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  the  perfection  of  roast  pork, 
golden-brown  and  unseared  by  fire,  were  possible  only  in 
the  oven. 

Lucullus,  the  good  Roman  gourmet,  had  his  meals 
cooked  in  a  mint.  He  required  that  his  masterpieces  be 
served  on  gold  and  silver  and  crystal,  and  spread  on  a 
table  of  lapis  lazuli.  The  sauces  compiled  for  him  were 
worth  more  than  the  food  upon  which  they  were  poured. 
He  was  the  high  priest  of  extravagance  and  luxury.  A 
single  meal  stood  him  a  fortune.  He  had  more  regard 
for  the  cost  than  for  the  cooking.  It  is  said  that  his 
death  was  hastened  by  dyspepsia. 

^  ^  ^  ^ 

In  the  early  seventies  a  French  nobleman,  living  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Barbizon,  was  found  seated  at  the  table 
with  his  face  in  a  plate  of  soup.  Because  of  the  fact  that 
a  butcher  knife  had  been  inserted  via  the  back  between 
his  fourth  and  fifth  rib  on  the  left  side,  he  was  quite 

fix! 


INTRODUCTION 


dead.     Clues  led  nowhere.     It  became  one  of  the  mys- 
teries. 

Long  afterward  an  old  man  tottered  into  the  office  of 
the  Prefect  and  announced  that  he  wished  to  make  a 
confession. 

"Proceed,"   said   the   official. 

"  'Twas  I,"  responded  the  ancient,  "who  delivered  the 
death  stroke  to  the  Duke  de  la thirty-five  years  ago." 

"What  inspired  you  to  make  this  confession?" 

"Pride." 

"I  do  not  comprehend.     The  details,  if  you  please." 

"By  profession  I  was  a  chef,"  said  the  self-accused. 
"The  Duke,  at  a  fabulous  price,  enticed  me  into  his  serv- 
ice. His  first  request  was  that  I  make  for  him  a  per- 
fect consomme.  Votla!  For  three  days  I  prepared  this 
perfection.  With  my  own  hand  I  placed  before  him 
the  soup  tureen.  With  my  own  hand  I  ladled  it  out. 
He  inhaled  its  divine  essence;  and  then,  Your  Honor, 
he  reached  for  the  salt.    Mon  Dieuf     I  destroy  him!" 

The  Prefect  embraced  the  artist  and  took  him  out  to 

lunch.     Thus  art  was  vindicated  and  the  incident  closed. 

In  the  chemistry  of  cooking,  "enough  is  too  much." 
*  *  *  * 

The  immortals  who  have  contributed  recipes  to  this 
volume  were  born  with  a  silver  spoon  not  in  their  mouths, 
but  In  their  hands.  The  cap  and  apron,  not  the  cap  and 
bells,  is  the  garb  in  which  they  perform.  Secrets  handed 
down  through  generations  are  thrown  with  a  wanton 
hand  on  the  pages  that  comprise  this  volume.  Sauces 
from  the  south,  chowders  from  New  England,  barbecued 
[x] 


INTRODUCTION 


masterpieces  from  the  west,  grilled  classics  from  field  and 
stream,  ragouts,  stews,  desserts,  dressings  are  hung  within 
reach  of  all,  like  garlic  clusters  from  the  rafters  of  oppor- 
tunity.   Reach  up  and  help  yourself. 

Be  not  disturbed  by  occasional  jocund  phrases  in  this 
symposium.  Behind  them  is  probably  concealed  a  savory 
or  a  flavor.  A  long  paragraph  may  conclude  with  full 
particulars  concerning  the  achitecture  of  a  gastronomic 
dream.    Turn  the  pages  slowly  lest  you  be  overwhelmed 

by  the  richness  of  the  menu. 

*  *  *  * 

The  late  King  Edward,  upon  bidding  the  later  Carlos 
of  Portugal  God-speed  back  to  his  native  shores,  inquired : 
"By  what  were  you  most  impressed  during  your  visit 
to  the  British  Isles?" 

''Roast  beef,"  said  Carlos,  expanding  in  ecstasy. 

"And  what  else?"  inquired  Edward. 

"Well,"  said  Carlos,  "the  boiled  beef  wasn*t  so  damned 
bad." 

^  ^  *  ¥^ 

It  is  one  thing  to  cook  food,  and  another  to  consume 
it.  This  inspired  tome  is  the  product  of  cooks  who  are  not 
afraid  to  take  their  own  medicine.  The  names  of  many 
of  the  dishes  catalogued  herein  lies  on  the  tongues  of  the 
mob,  but  the  delicacies  themselves  do  not.  This  book 
brings  within  the  reach  of  all  opportunities  that  up  to 
now  have  been  denied  them.  Given  a  first  class  stove, 
a  few  simple  ingredients  and  a  copy  of  this  book,  hunger 
can  be  abolished  wherever  English  is  read. 


[xi] 


INTRODUCTION 


Rossini,  the  musician,  also  a  chef,  after  writing  the 
score  of  The  Barber  of  Seville^  was  informed  by  the  direc- 
tor that  a  prelude  was  required  immediately.  Rossini  re- 
paired to  his  kitchen,  cooked  himself  a  perfect  dinner, 
consumed  it  alone,  and  went  to  bed  where  in  a  reclining 
position  with  score  sheets  all  about  him,  he  wrote  a  bril- 
liant introduction  to  his  brilliant  opera.  Suddenly  a  gust 
of  wind  entered  unbidden  at  the  window  and  scattered 
the  precious  sheets  about  the  room.  Several  disappeared 
through  the  lattice.  Rossini,  heavy^  with  the  consequences 
of  his  culinary  genius,  re-wrote  a  fresher  and  better  pre- 
lude, tucked  it  under  his  corpulent  person  and  rolled 
over  for  a  final  nap,  after  which  he  hastened  to  the  opera 
house  with  his  masterpiece.     His  best  work  was  done  on 

a  full  stomach. 

*  *  *  * 

Brillat-Savarin,  author  of  "Gastronomy  as  a  Fine  Art," 
rather  whimsically  names  "Gasteria"  the  tenth  and  fair- 
est of  the  Muses.  The  writers  of  this  book  name  her  as 
the  first.  R.  H.  D. 


[xii] 


CONTENTS 


PART  ONE:  CONTRIBUTORS 


PAGE 

I     Meredith    Nicholson        .        .        31 

WABASH    VALLEY   STEAK 

II     Rex  Beach        ....        34 

ONION    CLAM    CHOWDER 

III  Hudson  Maxim       .        .        .        2>S 

SPAGHETTI 

IV  Warren  G.  Harding       .        .        36 

WAFFLES 

V     Ellis  Parker  Butler        .        .        37 

BOUILLABAISSE    JOE    TILDEN 

VI     Jules  J.  Jusserand   .         .        .        38 

RADISH  SALAD 

VII     Bruce  Barton   ....        39 

RICE    PUDDING 

VIII     Richard  Bennett       ...        40 

LIEDERKRANZ    A    LA    HOOSIER 

IX     Walt  Louderback     .        .        .       41 

CORN    CHOWDER 

X     Captain    Robert    A,    Bartlett, 

U.SA 42 

COD    FISH 

XI     George  F.  Worts     ...        43 

SWEET    POTATO    PONE 

[xiii] 


CONTENTS 


XII     Gelett  Burgess 

PANDOWDY 

XIII  William  Allen  White     . 

VEGETABLE    SALAD 

XIV  Irvin  S,  Cobb  .... 

HOG         JOWL         AND         TURNIP 
GREENS    (PADUCAH  STYLE) 

XV     Richard  Walton  Tully    . 

hawaiian    croquettes   a    la 
"the  bird  of  paradise" 

XVI     William  Johnston    . 
oysters  pecheur 

XVII     Dr.  Charles  M.  Sheldon       . 
likes  bread  and  milk 
XVIII     James  Montgomery  Flagg     . 

"jAMES  MONTGOMERY  SUDs" 

XIX     Roy  L.  McCardell  . 

"eggs  mushroomette" 

XX     Judge  Ben  B,  Lindsey     . 
bran  muffins 

XXI     Otis  Skinner 

artichokes,    mister   ANTONIO 

XXII     Dan  Beard 

A    BURGOO 

XXIII     De  Wolf  Honer   . 

RASPBERRY   SHORTCAKE 

XXIV     Chick  Evans     . 

TOMATO    SOUP 


FAG£ 

45 
46 

48 
49 

51 

52 
53 

54 
56 
51 
58 
60 
61 


ixiv] 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

XXV     Joshua  A,  Hat  field  63 

EGGPLANT  SAUTE  A  l'aLEXAN- 

DER 
POTATO  STICKS  ALEXANDER 
COLD  SAUCE  ALEXANDER 

PREME  O] 

EXANDER 
GARNITURE 

>NDU   AI 

ANDER 
POACHED    EGGS     EN     CROUSTADE 

A  l'alexander 

ROMAINE        SALAD       A        l'alEX- 
ANDER 

ROGNONS     DE     VEAU     A    l'aLEX- 
ANDER 

STRAWBERRY     TARTLETS     ALEX- 
ANDER 

BAKED    OYSTERS    ALEXANDER 

EMINCE  OF  CHICKEN  A  L^ALEX- 
ANDER 

XXVI     Stewart  Edward  White  .        .        69 

MULLIGAN 

XXVII     Oliver  Herford       ...        70 

FRIED    ELDERBERRY    BLOSSOMS 

XXVIII     Reed    Smoot    .        .        .        .        71 

PEACH    COBBLER 

XXIX     Ray    Long        ....        72 

SHAD    ROE 
DESSERT 


[xv] 


CONTENTS 


XXX 

Kenneth  C,  Beaton  . 

LOBSTER 

PAGE 

73 

XXXI 

John  Harvey  Kellogg^  M.  D. 

MACARONI    WITH    CHEESE 
SAVORY    POTATOES 

15 

XXXII 

Clare    Briggs    .... 

WAFFLES 

11 

XXXIII 

Edward  W.  Bok      .         .        . 

ASPARAGUS 

78 

XXXIV 

Charles  Hanson  Towne  . 

CORN    PUDDING 

80 

XXXV 

Jerome  D.  Kern 

TERRAPIN 

81 

XXXVI 

Daniel    Willard 

COTTAGE    PUDDING 

82 

xixvii 

STRAWBERRY    SAUCE 

Houdint 

SCALLOPED       MUSHROOMS       AND 

DEVILED    EGGS 
THE    MUSHROOM    DISH 
THE    EGGS 

83 

XXXVIII 

Charles  P.  Steinmetz 

84 

MEAT    LOAF 

XXXIX 

Charlie    Chaplin 

STEAK    AND    KIDNEY    PIE 

86 

XL 

Dr.  Frank  Crane 

ROUND    STEAK 

87 

XLI 

Robert  H.  Davis     . 

89 

CREAM       SAUCE 
CESTERSHIRE 


LA       WOR- 


[xvi] 


CONTENTS 


XLII 

John  A,  Dix     .... 

FRIED    TROUT 

PAGE 

90 

XLIII 

Guy  Bates  Post 

LAMB      CURRY      A      LA      "OMAR, 
THE    TENTMAKER" 

91 

XLIV 

Dr.  Don  Rafael  H,  Elizalde 

SANCOCHO 
YAPINGACHO 

93 

XLV 

Bide   Dudley    .... 

TOMATO    SOP 

95 

XLVI 

William  Hale  Thompson 

ROAST    BEEF 

96 

XLVII 

Booth   Tarkington    . 

CORN    FLAKES 

97 

XLVIII 

T.  A.  D organ  .... 

CHILI  CON   CARNE 

98 

XLIX 

William   de   Leftwich   Dodge 

RAGOUT    DE    MOUTON 

99 

L 

Montague   Glass 

BOUILLABAISSE 

100 

LI 

John  Philip  Sousa    . 

PELOTAS    A    LA    PORTUGUESE 
SPAGHETTI 

103 

LII 

Will    Hays      .... 

CHICKEN    PILAU 

105 

LIII 

Frank  Ward  O'Malley   . 

RUM-TUM-TIDDY 

106 

LIV 

Charles  Evans  Hughes     . 

CORN    BREAD 

108 

[xvii] 


CONTENTS 


LV 
LVI 


LVII 


LVIII 

LIX 
LX 

[xviii] 


Walter  Prichard  Eaton  .        .109 

MINCE    PIE 
THE    FILLING 

W.  T.  Benda  .        .        .        .113 

POLISH    SPECIALTIES 
BARSHCK    WITH    USHKA 
USHKA 
BURACHKI 

Captain  Edward  A.  Salisbury     118 

SAUCE    FOR   SPAGHETTI 

EGGS    A    LA    SALISBURY 

FISH    A    LA    COMMODORE 

TO    COOK    TROUT 

VENISON    STEAK 

GOOSE 

A     MAYONNAISE     AND     A     SALAD 

DRESSING 
DUCKS    AND    LARGE    FOWL 
TEAL,     PARTRIDGE     AND     SMALL 

FOWL 
BEANS 

ITALIAN    RICE 
STEAK    SAUCE 

Thomas  H.  I  nee       .         .        .      126 

CHICKEN    HALIBUT 
ONION    SOUP    AU    GRATIN 
RICE    A    LA    MANHATTAN 

George  Ade      .        .        .        .128 
"scolloped"  oysters 

Lyman  Abbott         .        .        .      130 
deep  apple  pie 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 


LXI      Terry    Ramsay e  .  131 

LETTUCE    (a   la   RED   CREEK) 

LXII     R.   L.    {Rube)    Goldberg  133 

HASH 

LXIII     Channing  Pollock    .        .        .134 

CORN    BREAD 

LXIV     Hussein  Kahn  Alai   .      .  135 

CHIRIN    POLOW 

LXV     William  J,  Bryan     .        .        .138 

FRENCH-FRIED    ONIONS 

LXVI     Will  Irwin 139 

HAM    AND    EGGS 

LXVII     Douglas  Fairbanks  .        .        .140 

BREAD    TART 

LXVIII     Julian  Street     ....      141 

SOLE      A      LA      MARGUERY      AND 

DUCK  WITH    ORANGES 
SOLE   A  LA   MARGUERY 
DUCK  BIGARADE 

LXIX     S.  S.  McClure  .        .143 

OMELETTE ^AND    PIE 

LXX     Basil  King  .145 

LOBSTER    A    LA    KING 

LXXI     John  A,  Moroso  .146 

SPAGHETTI-FOR-THE-GANG 

LXXII     F,  X.  Leyendecker         .         .148 

VEAU  SAUTE   MARENGO 
VOL   AU    VENT   FINANCIERE 

[xix] 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 


LXXIII     Eddie  Cantor   .         .         .        .150 

BOILED  BEEF  AND   HORSERADISH 

SAUCE 

LXXIV     Frazier  Hunt  .        .        .        .151 

STUFFED     CELERY 

LXXV     Wm.  Slavins  McNutt     .        .152 

ORANGE    COMPOTE 

LXXVI     Stefhen  Vincent  Benet     .        .154 

ZITELLl's    MACARONI   STEW 

LXXVII     James  R.   Quirk      .        .        .155 

TOMATO    WIGGLE 

LXXVIII     Charles  W.  Eliot     .         .        .156 

A    FAVORITE.  MENU 

LXXIX     H,  S,  Cumming     .        .        .158 

VIRGINIA    EGG    BREAD 

LXXX     Joseph  S  ant  ley         .         .         .159 

COCOA  CREAM   CAKE 

LXXXI     A,  Hamilton  Gibbs         .        .160 

SQUAB    EN    CASSEROLE 

LXXXII     Richard  Barthelmess        .        .      161 

SPICED  GRAPES 

LXXXIII     Don  Juan  R.  y  Gayangos       .      162 

EGG   PLANT  AU   GRATIN 

LXXXIV     Samuel  G.  Ely  the   .  .163 

TRIPE    A    LA    MODE    DE    CAEN    A 
LA    ROY    CARRUTHERS 

LXXXV     Charles  H.  Taylor  .        .        .      165 

CLAM    CHOWDER 
[XX] 


CONTENTS 

LXXXVI 

Cyrus  H,  K,  Curtis     . 

BAKED    BEANS 

PAGE 

167 

LXXXVII 

Frederic  Arnold  Kummer    . 

SPAGHETTI  DIABOLIQUE 

169 

LXXXVIII 

Albert  D.  Lasker 

CHICKEN   PAPRIKA 

170 

LXXXIX 

Henry  Van  Dyke  . 

FISH    CHOWDER 

171 

XC 

Macklyn  Ar buckle 

SOUTHERN        GUMBO       A       LA 

"county  chairman" 

172 

XCI 

John  Taint  or  Foote 
morels  saute 

174- 

XCII 

Maurice  Francis  Egan  . 
A     diplomatist's     receipt 

FOR  WELSH  RABBIT 

176 

XCIII 

Livingston  Farrand 

sausage  and  griddle  cakes 

178 

XCIV 

F,  Ziegfeldy  Jr. 

LITTLE   CHICKEN  TARTS 

179 

xcv 

Harold  Lloyd 

LEMON    LAYER   CAKE 

181 

XCVI 

Luther  Burbank    . 

TURKEY    A    LA    BURBANK 

183 

XCVII 

Raymond  McKee  . 

TO   COOK  RABBITS 

185 

XCVIII 

Will  Deming 

VIRGINIA   HAM 
LEMON  PIE 
A   DRESSING 

187 

[xxi; 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

XCIX     Charles  W,  Chessar     .        .189 

TIPS  ON  STEAKS 

C     Arthur  T,  Vance  .        .        .191 

SALADE  A  LA  TURC 
PANDORA  FRENCH  DRESSING 
WELSH  RABBIT  A  LA  MORGAN 
ROBERTSON 

CI     Baron  de  C artier  .        .        .      195 

WATERZOIE    DE    VOLAILLE 

CI  I     Dean  Cornwell  .        .      197 

SPAGH  ETTI-M  Y-STYLE 


PART  TWO:  RECIPES 
Breads — Muffins — Waffles — Etc. 

BRAN    muffins 56 

BREAD    AND    MILK 52 

CORN   BREAD 108,  134 

CORNFLAKES 97 

GRIDDLE    CAKES 178 

SWEET   POTATO   PONE 43 

VIRGINIA   EGG   BREAD 158 

WAFFLES 36,  77 


Egg  Dishes 


DEVILED    EGGS        ......  83 

EGGS  A  LA  SALISBURY 119 

EGGS  "mushroomette"       ....  54 

EGGS   USED  WITH   ASPARAGUS          .            .            .  79 

[xxii] 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

ham  and  eggs 139 

omelette 143 

poached     eggs     en      croustade     a 

l'alexander 65 

Soups — Mulligans — Bouillabaisse 

BARSHCK 113 

BARSHCK    WITH    USHKA           .            .            .            .  113 

BEAN   SOUP 124 

BURGOO,   A 58 

BOUILLABAISSE    JOE    TILDEN           .            .            .  37 

BOUILLABAISSE 100 

CORN    CHOWDER 41 

clam  chowder 165 

fish  chowder 171 

mulligan 69 

onion  clam  chowder       .        .        .    -    .  34 
onion  soup  au  gratin      .        .        .        .126 

sancocho .  93 

tomato  soup 61 

waterzoie  de  volaille    .        .        .        .195 

Fish — Oysters — Lobster — Roe — Etc. 

baked  oysters  alexander         .        .        .  67 

chicken  halibut 126 

COD    FISH 42 

COLD       SAUCE       ALEXANDER        (fOR       COLD 

salmon) 64 

FISH   A   LA  COM  M ADORE          .            .            .            .  119 

FRIED   TROUT          ......  90 

HAWAIIAN      CROQUETTES     A      LA      BIRD      OF 

PARADISE 49 

[xxiii] 

I 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

LOBSTER  A  LA   KING       .             .             .            .             .145 

LOBSTER   (k  C  b) 

73 

OYSTERS   PECHEUR 

51 

"scolloped"    OYSTERS 

128 

SHAD     ROE      . 

72 

SOLE  A  LA  MARGUERY    . 

141 

STEAMED  CLAMS    . 

97 

TROUT,  TO  cook    . 

120 

Fowl  (Domestic  and  Wild) 

CHICKEN    PAPRIKA 170 

CHICKEN   PILAU 105 

CHiRiN  poLow  (Persian)   .        .        .        .       135 
DUCK  bigarade 142 

DUCKS  and  large  FOWL       .  .  .  .122 

EMINCE   OF   CHICKEN   A   l'aLEXANDER  .  68 

goose,  THE  BEST  WAY  TO  COOK    .  .  .  121 

LITTLE  CHICKEN  TARTS  .179 

SOUTHERN    GUMBO    A    LA    "cOUNTY    CHAIR- 

man" 172 

SQUAB   EN   CASSEROLE 160 

SUPREME   OF    CHICKEN   A   l'aLEXANDER       .  64 

SUPREME     OF      CHICKEN      A      l'aLEXANDER 

GARNITURE  .  .  .  .  .  65 

TEAL,   PARTRIDGE  AND  SMALL  FOWL    .  .  123 

TURKEY   A  LA   BURBANK       .  .  .  .183 

Meats — Meat  Dishes  and  Sauces 


CHILI    CON    CARNE 

CREAM  SAUCE  A  LA  WORCESTERSHIRE 

HASH A  NEW  METHOD 

[xxiv] 


98 

89 

133 


CONTENTS 


HAM    AND    EGGS     .... 
HOG    JOWL   AND    TURNIP    GREENS 
HORSERADISH    SAUCE 
LAMB      CURRY     A     LA     "oMAR     THE 

maker"    

MEAT  LOAF 

PELOTAS  k  LA  PORTUGUESE 

RABBIT,   TO   COOK 

RAGOUT  DE    MOUTON    . 

ROAST   BEEF,   TIPS  ON    COOKING    . 

ROGNONS  DE   VEAU  A   l'aLEXANDER 

ROUND  STEAK REALLY  DELICIOUS 

SANCOCHO    (from    ECUADOR) 

SPICED    GRAPES 

STEAK  AND  KIDNEY  PIE 

STEAK   SAUCE 

STEAK,    TIPS    ON     . 

TERRAPJN 

TRIPE  A  LA  MODE  DE   CAEN 

USHKA    (polish) 

VEAU  SAUTE  MARENGO 

VOL  AU  VENT  FINANCIERE 

VENISON  STEAK       . 

VIRGINIA    HAM 

WABASH     VALLEY    STEAK 


TENT 


139 

48 

150 

91 

84 

103 

185 

99 

96 

66 

87 

93 

161 

86 

125 

189 

81 

163 

114 

148 

149 

120 

31 

187 


Vegetables  and  the  Like 
artichokes  mister  antonio 

ASPARAGUS     .... 
BEANS     (various    STYLEs)     . 
BURACHKI    (polish)     . 
EGGPLANT  AU  GRATIN 


123, 


[xxv] 


57 

78 

167 

117 

162 


CONTENTS 


EGGPLANT  SAUTE  A  L  ALEXANDER 
FRENCH  FRIED  ONIONS 
ITALIAN   RICE 
MORELS   SAUTE 
POTATO    STICKS    ALEXANDER 
RICE    A    LA    MANHATTAN 
SAVORY      POTATOES 
"scolloped"   MUSHROOMS    . 

y 

TOMATO   SOP 
TURNIP   GREENS    . 
YAPINGACHO    (fROM  ECUADOR ) 

Spaghetti — Macaroni — Etc. 

MACARONI   STEW,   ZITELLl's 
MACARONI  WITH  CHEESE       . 
SPAGHETTI     .... 
SPAGHETTI  DIABOLIQUE 
SPAGHETTI    FOR-THE-GANG 
SPAGHETTI-MY-STYLE 
SPAGHETTI    SAUCES 
SPAGHETTI  WITH  PELOTAS    . 

Salads  and  Salad  Dressings 

DRESSING     (for    STUFFED    TOMATOES,    COLD 

MEAT,    POTATO    SALAD )     . 
LETTUCE  A  LA  RED  CREEK    . 
A  MAYONNAISE  AND  A  SALAD   DRESSING 
PANDORA   FRENCH    DRESSING 
RADISH     SALAD         ..... 
ROMAINE    SALAD    A    l'aLEXANDER 
SALADE    A    LA   TURC       .... 
VEGETABLE   SALAD  .... 

[xxvi] 


63 
138 

124 
174 
63 
127 
75 
83 
95 
48 
94 


154 

75 

35 

169 

146 

197 

118,146,  154 

103 


188 

131 

122 

192 

38 

66 

191 

46 


CONTENTS 


Desserts — Cakes — ^Pies — ^Puddings 


PAGE 


BREAD  TARTS 140 

COCOA  CREAM  CAKE 159 

CORN  PUDDING 80 

COTTAGE   PUDDING   WITH   STRAWBERRY 

SAUCE 82 

DEEP  APPLE  PIE 130 

DESSERT,   A 72 

FRIED  ELDERBERRY  BLOSSOMS          ...  70 

INDIAN    PUDDING 156 

JAMES  MONTGOMERY  SUDS    ....  53 

LEMON    LAYER    CAKE 181 

LEMON    PIE 187 

MINCE-PIE 109 

ORANGE    COMPOTE 152 

PEACH  COBBLER 71 

PANDOWDY 45 

PIE 143 

PIE    CRUST 111,144 

RASPBERRY   SHORTCAKE                                               .  60 

RICE    PUDDING 39 

STRAWBERRY  TARTLETS  ALEXANDER     .            .  67 


Cheese  and  Cheese  Dishes 


CELERY  STUFFED  WITH  CHEESE    . 

FONDU  AU  FROMAGE  A  l'aLEXANDER 

LIEDERKRANZ  A   LA   HOOSIER 

RUM-TUM-TIDDY 

TOMATO  WIGGLE    .... 

WELSH    RABBIT    (a   DIPLOMATISt's    RECIPE )  176 

WELSH    RABBIT    A    LA    MORGAN    ROBERTSON  193 

[xxvii] 


151 

65 

40 

106 

155 


THE  STAG  COOK  BOOK 


"This  dish  of  meat  is  too  good  for 
any  but  anglers,  or  very  honest  men." 

IzAAK  Walton. 


Meredith  Nicholson 


WABASH  VALLEY  STEAK 

No  man  can  be  a  hero  in  his  own  kitchen.  No  man 
with  the  slightest  regard  for  domestic  peace  will  ever 
permit  his  wife  to  see  him  cook  without  having  outsiders 
present.  The  psychology  of  this  is  obvious.  Impatient 
though  a  woman  may  be  of  her  husband's  attempts  to 
show  that  he  is  a  real  sport  and  skilled  in  all  the  arts 
of  social  entertaining,  before  guests  she  is  likely  to  mani- 
fest a  modest  degree  of  pride  in  his  performances.  Or 
even  if  slightly  contemptuous  she  is  moved  to  assume  a 
chaffing  attitude  that  adds  to  the  general  good  feeling. 
I  beg  not  to  be  confused  with  the  t}'pe  of  bachelor  club 
man  who  is  a  perfect  wizard  with  the  chafing  dish.  I 
have  always  viewed  those  birds  with  suspicion.  Their 
tricks  are  few  and  easy  of  accomplishment — stunts  with 
mushrooms,  or  chicken  a  la  king  done  nonchalantly  in  a 
dinner  coat.  I  sing  my  fiercest  hymn  of  hate  of  those 
persons. 

My  own  method  is  to  assume  full  charge  of  an  orderly 
kitchen,  removing  coat  and  waistcoat,  donning  an  apron 
and  attacking  the  job  without  apology  or  simper  or  the 

[31] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

silly  pretense  that  I'm  not  sure  of  the  result.  Not  sure! 
Except  in  the  case  of  colored  women  cooks,  who  trust 
to  inspiration  and  achieve  miracles  without,  seemingly, 
knowing  how  they  do  'em — except,  I  say,  in  such  in- 
stances, cookery  is  an  exact  science.  If  you  follow  a 
good  rule  and  know  how  to  regulate  the  range  and  have 
a  true  eye  and  acute  nose,  failure  is  obliterated  from  the 
lexicon. 

And  now  for  my  scenario,  which  I  stole  from  a  lady, 
who  in  turn  stole  it,  I  dare  say,  from  some  cook  book. 
I  might  pretend  that  I  invented  it,  but  I  didn't.  All  I 
claim  is  that  it  offers  an  Olympian  feast — particularly  if 
you  can  accompany  it  with  hot  biscuits,  which  I  admit 
are  beyond  my  powers. 

The  Recipe 

Take  a  round  steak  cut  two  inches  thick;  and  beat  a 
cup  of  flour  into  it.  Heat  a  large  skillet  till  it  is  piping 
hot  with  lard  covering  the  bottom  about  one  inch.  Put 
in  the  steak,  cover  immediately,  and  allow  it  to  cook 
about  five  minutes,  turning  once. 

Then  cover  it  with  a  sauce  composed  in  this  wise: 

Four  large  tomatoes 
Four  onions 

Four  green  mango  peppers 
Four  ripe  pimentoes 

Put  through  a  grinder  or  better  still  chop  thoroughly 
with  a  chopper  in  a  wooden  bowl.     Don't  skimp  on  this 

[32] 


WRITTEN    FOR   MEN    BY    MEN 

labor ;  the  chopping  must  be  done  conscientiously.  Season 
with  salt  and  pour  over  the  steak;  cook  slowly  for  two 
hours.  When  done  turn  into  a  large  platter  and  serve 
piping  hot. 


[33] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


Rex  Beach 

ONION  CLAM  CHOWDER 

To  each  lO  oz.  can  of  Pioneer  Brand  Minced  Clams 
use  I  pound  of  sliced  Spanish  or  white  onipn. 

For  a  good  sized  chowder  take  six  large  onions  (white), 
and  cut  in  lengths  one  inch  long.  Pour  the  juice  from 
the  clams  into  saucepan,  add  onions  and  a  little  water 
and  boil  thoroughly  until  onions  are  well  cooked  and 
soft.  Then  add  clams  which  have  been  taken  out  of 
the  can  and  put  into  a  dish,  and  stew  five  minutes  before 
onions  are  done.  Next  place  in  a  stew  pan  about  a  pint 
of  cream  or  half  cream  and  half  milk  and  let  come  to  a 
boil.  After  the  clams  have  been  in  with  the  onions  for 
about  three  minutes  pour  on  the  hot  milk  and  season  to 
taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  If  serving  in  a  soup  plate,  a 
little  chopped  parsley  adds  to  the  attractiveness  of  the 
dish.     Then  EAT  it. 

(You  can  substitute  for  fresh  milk  or  cream — Carnation 
Canned  Milk  diluted — %  milk  to  %  water.  The  soup 
should  be  thick  and  not  too  watery.  This  can  be  regulated 
by  amount  of  milk  added.) 


[34] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


m 


Hudson  Maxim 

SPAGHETTI 

Take  one  package  of  vermicelli  or  spaghetti,  and  put 
it  into  a  saucepan,  crushing  it  in  the  hand,  then  put  in 
hot  water,  and  salt  a  little  more  than  will  suit  the  taste, 
and  boil  for  an  hour. 

While  the  vermicelli  or  spaghetti  is  cooking,  take  a 
quart  of  milk  and  heat  three-quarters — or  24  ounces — of 
it  until  it  boils.  Then  stir  into  the  eight  ounces  of  cold 
milk  a  level  cupful  of  flour,  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour, 
pretty  well  heaped,  and  then  stir  the  thickened  milk  into 
the  boiling  milk  and  cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes. 

Then  add  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  good,  ripe,  old 
American  cheese,  and  about  half  a  pound  of  butter.  Then 
drain  the  water  off  the  vermicelli  or  spaghetti  and  put 
in  from  one  and  one  half  pints  to  a  quart  of  canned 
tomatoes.  Heat  the  vermicelli  or  spaghetti  to  the  boiling 
point;  and  while  the  mixture  of  cheese,  butter,  milk  and 
flour  is  still  hot,  stir  the  two  together,  then  keep  hot  and 
serve  hot.  Do  not  boil  any  more,  because  further  boiling 
would  tend  to  cause  the  tomatoes  to  coagulate  the  milk 
in  the  mixture.  I  prefer  to  use  a  mixture  of  spaghetti  and 
vermicelli  instead  of  all  spaghetti  or  all  vermicelli. 

[35] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


IV 


JVarren  G.  Harding 

WAFFLES 

2  eggs 

2  tablespoons  sugar 
2  tablespoons  butter 
I  teaspoon  salt 

1  pint  milk 

flour  to  make  thin  batter 

2  large  teaspoons  of  baking  powder 

Beat  yolks  of  eggs,  add  sugar  and  salt,  melt  butter,  add 
milk  and  flour;  last  just  before  ready  to  bake  add  beaten 
whites  of  eggs  and  baking  powder. 

Bake  on  hot  waffle  iron. 


Editor's  Note: — There  is  a  great  deal  of  argument  about 
the  proper  dressing  for  waffles.  Various  gravies  are  used  by 
one  school  of  waffle  caters ;  while  honey,  maple  syrup,  and 
various  specially  flavored  sugar  powders  are  preferred  by 
another. 

President  Harding  is  a  staunch  upholder  of  the  gravy 
school  and  likes  his  in  the  form  of  creamed  chipped  beef. 

[36] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


Ellis  Parker  Butler 

BOUILLABAISSE  JOE  TILDEN 

In  a  soup  kettle  put  four  tablespoonsf ul  of  genuine  olive 
oil.  When  hot  enough  fry  In  it  two  large  onions,  sliced, 
and  two  cloves  of  garlic  chopped.  Cut  two  pounds  of 
any  sort  of  firm  white-textured  fish  into  small  pieces  and 
put  in  the  kettle,  just  covering  the  mixture  with  warm 
water. 

Now  have  the  Eighteenth  Amendment  repealed  and  add 
to  the  mixture  one  cup  of  White  Wine,  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon,  two  large  tomatoes  (peeled  and  cut  up),  pepper, 
salt  and  one  or  two  bay  leaves. 

Cook  this  briskly  for  twelve  minutes,  by  which  time  the 
liquor  should  be  one  third  evaporated.  Now  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  Joe  Tilden  added  a  pinch  of 
saffron,  but  I  don't  care  for  It.  Cook  two  minutes  longer 
and  serve  ladled  on  slices  of  French  bread. 


Editor's  Note: — Moquin's  have  made  a  luncheon  specialty 
of  Bouillabaisse  for  many  years.  They  add  lobster  and  eel. 
Here  is  a  wonderful  dish  to  experiment  with — great  fun  and 
delicious  results  if  you  try  it  once  or  twice.  It's  a  habit- 
forming  dish,  so  beware! 

[37] 


THE    STAG   COOK   BOOK 


VI 

Jules  /.  Jusserand 

(Ambassador  to  the  United  States  from  France) 

RADISH  SALAD 

The  French  ambassador  presents  his  compliments  and 
begs  to  state  that  he  does  not  believe  that  any  dish,  or 
food,  is  more  palatable  than  a  salad  of  radishes,  the 
radishes  to  be  cut  In  very  thin  slices  and  to  be  seasoned 
with  the  usual  salad  dressing. 


Editor's  Note: — This  salad  will  be  at  its  best  if  the  founda- 
tion, upon  which  the  thin  slices  of  radish  are  placed,  is  made 
of  small  crisp  leaves  of  romaine.  The  usual  dressing — 
f rench,  of  course — is  prepared  in  this  way : 

To  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  or  vinegar  add  three  table- 
spoonsful  of  the  best  olive  oil,  a  dash  of  black  pepper,  and  a 
half  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Beat  well  with  a  silver  fork,  and  add 
enough  paprika  to  give  it  a  ruddy  color,  and  a  rich  flavor. 
If  the  salad  dish  is  rubbed  with  garlic  it  will  do  no  great 
harm  to  the  mixture ! 

[38] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


VII 


Bruce  Barton 


RICE  PUDDING 

I  am  president  of  the  S.  R.  R.  R.  P. — the  Society  for 
Restoration  of  Raisins  to  Rice  Pudding. 

I  have  made  a  list  of  New  York  hotels  and  clubs  and 
rated  them  according  to  the  number  of  raisins  they  put 
in  a  portion  of  rice  pudding  as  follows: 
Class  D — no  raisins 
Class  C — I  raisin 
Class  B — 3  or  more  raisins 
Class  A — plenty  of  raisins 
To  my  mind,  rice  pudding  without  raisins  is  like  Hamlet 
without  the  eggs. 

I       cup  rice 
4       cups  milk 
3       eggs 

1/2  cup  sugar 
I       teaspoonful  salt 
I       package  seedless  raisins 
I       teaspoon  of  vanilla 

Bake  one  hour  in  a  hot  oven.  Set  the  pan  inside  of 
another  containing  hot  water. 

Serve  with  whipped  cream  and  garnish  with  Dromedary 
dates. 

Editor's  Note: — Cook  the  rice  twenty-three  minutes. 

[39] 


THE    STAG   COOK   BOOK 


VIII 


Richard  Bennett 

LIEDERKRANZ  A  LA  HOOSIER 

Run  around  and  find  a  real  nice  Liederkranz  cheese 
and  treat  it  as  follows  to  get  a  serving  for  four  people: 

Mix  the  cheese  with  about  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter  and  work  into  a  fine  paste,  adding  salt,  pepper, 
French  mustard,  paprika  and  Worcestershire  sauce  as 
you  go  along.    Just  add  them  to  taste. 

When  the  paste  is  smooth  put  in  one  finely  chopped 
small  green  pepper;  one  small  onion,  or  chives. 

Mix  well! 

And  serve  on  rye  bread — spread  thick.  To  be  thor- 
oughly technical,  I  suppose  I  should  have  said:  spread 
to  taste! 


Editor's  Note: — You  can  have  a  wonderful  time  and  make 
quite  a  reputation  for  yourself  by  inventing  cheese  combi- 
nations. Ordinary  cream  cheese  makes  a  splendid  base  for 
original  mixtures.  Try  combinations  of  finely  minced  pimento, 
celery,  olives,  chives  and  peppers  (green  and  red).  And 
anything  else  that  promises  well. 

[40] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


IX 


Tf^alt  Louderback 

CORN  CHOWDER 

/  believe  my  favorite  recipe  is  Corn  Chowder. 

The  appetite  for  this  dish  must  be  approached  from 
the  windy  side  of  a  promontory  in  early  spring  with  a 
sixty  pound  pack  between  the  shoulder  blades,  aforemen- 
tioned pack  to  contain  for  a  couple  of  congenial  soula 
a  pound  of  bacon,  a  pound  of  dry  onions,  two  cans  of 
corn  and  one  large  tin  of  condensed  milk. 

Cut  the  bacon  up  into  small  half  inch  squares  and  start 
it  frying.  Simultaneously  slice  the  onions  and  give  them 
the  heat.  If,  after  the  aroma  from  these  two  begins  to 
permeate  the  air,  you  feel  like  risking  their  falling  into 
the  fire,  start  boiling  the  corn  and  milk.  Before  the  onions 
are  too  thoroughly  cooked  stir  them  into  the  bacon,  at 
which  time  the  battle  for  the  supremacy  of  the  appetizing 
odors  is  occupying  most  of  your  attention. 

Now  throw  the-  bacon  and  onions  into  the  corn  pot 
and  wait  as  long  as  you  are  able  so  that  the  ingredients 
become  thoroughly  familiar  with  one  another. 

Write  me  as  soon  as  you  get  home  if  you  don't  remem- 
ber that  day  until  you  are  an  old  man. 

To  make  this  sound  extremely  professional  I  suppose 
I  should  add,  "Season  to  taste,"  but  do  not  mind  if  a  few 
ashes  get  mixed  in  by  mistake. 

[41] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BO'OK 


Captain  Robert  A.  Bartlett^ 

U.S.A. 

COI>  FISH 

Here  is  my  favorite  dish.  Viz. : — Fresh  Labrador  Cod- 
fish caught  during  the  Caplin  school.  The  fish  is  at  this 
time  in  splendid  condition. 

Here  is  the  recipe: 

Place  a  small  bake  pot  upon  a  wood  fire ;  then  take  a 
few  strips  of  fat  pork,  cut  up  into  small  pieces  and  put 
into  the  bake  pot.  When  the  pork  fat  has  melted  you 
cut  the  fish  into  several  small  pieces  and  place  in  the 
pot.  In  about  twenty  minutes  the  fish  is  cooked.  The 
fish  must  be  eaten  from  the  pot  with  a  wooden  spoon. 


[42] 


WRIT'TEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


XI 


George  F.  Worts 

SWEET  POTATO  PONE 

There  are  two  sure  ways  of  identifying  a  true  south- 
erner. One  of  them  is  to  play  "Dixie."  Unlike  your 
northerner,  or  counterfeit  southerner  who  springs  to  his 
feet  and  looks  exalted  and  proud  when  the  band  strikes 
up  that  swinging  anthem,  your  true,  or  southern  south- 
erner rarely  springs.  Generally  he  just  sets  and  waggles 
one  boot,  and  looks  happy  or  sentimental,  according  to 
his  nature.  That  is  one  way  of  detecting  your  true 
southerner.  The  second  and  surer  way  is  to  announce  in 
a  tremulous  voice:  "Gemmen,  dat  potato  pone  am  done 
set." 

The  sweet  potato  pone  is  strictly  a  southern  dish.  It 
is  served  south  of  the  Mason  and  Dixon  line  hot  and 
smoking.  You  don't  need  much  experience  as  a  cook, 
although  the  old  rule  which  also  places  "perfect"  after 
"practice"  of  course  holds  good.  Your  ninth  potato  pone 
will  be  better  than  your  third.     Here  is  the  how: 

Grind  up  raw  sweet  potatoes  in  a  meat  chopper  until 
you  have  one  quart.  Mix  the  grindings  thoroughly  in  a 
bowl  with  molasses — enough  molasses  so  the  mass  is  soft 
and  sticky,  or  spongy. 

Mix  in  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  lard. 

[43] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

Add  a  teaspoonful  of  allspice. 

Put  the  mixture  in  a  cake  tin  and  place  In  a  slow  oven. 
Stir  constantly  until  a  rich  brown  hue  is  attained,  then 
smooth  over  with  a  knife  or  spoon  and  allow  to  bake 
slowly  until  a  mellow  brown  crust  Is  formed. 

Remove  from  oven,  allow  to  cool  slightly,  cut  In  slices 
and  serve.  General  Robert  E.  Lee  would  walk  ten  miles 
for  a  slice  of  it. 


[44] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


XII 


Gelett  Burgess 

PANDOWDY 

In  a  quart  pudding  dish  arrange  alternate  layers  of 
sliced  apples  and  bits  of  bread;  place  on  each  layer  dots 
of  butter,  a  little  sugar,  and  a  pinch  each  of  ground 
cinnamon,  cloves  and  allspice. 

When  the  dish  is  filled,  pour  over  it  half  a  cupful  each 
of  molasses  and  water,  mixed  well;  cover  the  top  with 
bread  crumbs. 

Place  the  dish  in  a  pan  containing  hot  water,  and  bake 
for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  or  until  the  apples  are  soft. 

Serve  hot,  with  cream  or  any  light  pudding  sauce. 

Raisins  or  chopped  almonds  are  sometimes  added. 


[45] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


XIII 


William  Allen  White 

VEGETABLE  SALAD 

My  idea  of  good  food  is  a  vegetable  salad.  Any  kind 
of  a  vegetable  salad  is  good;  some  are  better  than  others. 
Here  is  a  recipe  for  a  French  dressing  on  a  lettuce  salad 
which  you  should  try  on  your  meat  grinder,  or  your 
potato  masher,  or  your  rolling  pin  or  whatever  kitchen 
utensil  you  can  play. 

Get  a  crisp*  head  of  lettuce,  discard  the  outer  green 
leaves,  using  the  inner  yellow  and  white.  Wash  it  thor- 
oughly, and  after  pulling  it  apart  dry  each  leaf  with  a 
tea  towel.  Put  it  in  a  big  bowl — a  big  mixing  bowl,  six 
inches  deep  anjrway.  Then  set  that  to  one  side,  and  get 
about  as  much  onion  as  the  end  of  your  first  finger  would 
make,  if  it  was  chopped  off  at  the  second  joint.  Mince 
that.  Put  it  in  the  bottom  of  a  bowl.  Take  a  large 
tablespoon;  put  in  salt  and  paprika  to  taste,  and  don't  be 
afraid  of  making  it  salty,  then  add  oil  and  vinegar,  about 
three  or  four  to  one,  mixing  them  in  the  spoon  until  it 
slops  over  into  the  onion,  and  then  stir  the  salt  and 
paprika  and  oil  and  vinegar  down  into  the  bowl  of  minced 
onion,  taking  a  salad  fork  and  jabbing  it  around  in  the 
mixture  until  the  onion  has  been  fairly  well  crushed  and 
the  onion  flavor  permeates  the  mixed,  oil  and  vinegar,  and 

[46] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 

the  salt  and  paprika  have  become  for  the  moment  a  part 
of  the  mass.  Don't  let  it  stand  a  second,  but  pour  it 
quickly  into  the  bowl  of  dry  lettuce,  and  then  stir  like 
the  devil.  Keep  on  stirring;  stir  some  more,  and  serve 
as  quickly  as  possible. 

Cheese  may  be  mashed  into  the  onion  before  putting 
on  the  oil  and  vinegar  and  paprika  and  salt.  If  one 
w^ants  to  add  tomatoes,  wait  until  the  last  three  jabs  of 
the  stirring  fork  into  the  lettuce,  and  then  quarter  the 
tomatoes  and  turn  them  in  just  before  you  turn  the  lettuce 
over  the  last  two  or  three  times.  This  is  done  so  that 
the  watery  juice  of  the  tomatoes  won't  get  smeared  over 
the  oil  on  the  lettuce  leaves.  If  you  stir  the  tomatoes^  in 
early,  you  get  a  runny,  watery,  gooey  mess.  Cucumbers 
may  be  added,  and  they  should  be  stirred  in  rather  earlier 
than  the  tomatoes  in  the  business  of  mixing  the  lettuce 
leaves  and  the  dressing.  Green  peppers  may  be  added  if 
they  are  cut  into  strings,  but  too  much  outside  fixings 
spoils  the  salad  for  me.  The  tomatoes  are  about  as,  far 
aa  one  can  go  wisely. 


[47] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


XIV 


Irvin  S.  Cobb 

HOG  JOWL  AND  TURNIP  GREENS 

Paducah  Style 

For  a  person  who  has  written  so  copiously  about  food 
and  the  pleasures  of  eating  It,  I  probably  know  less  of 
the  art  of  preparing  It  than  any  living  creature.  I  cannot 
give  my  favorite  recipe  because  I  have  none;  but  I  am 
glad  to  give  the  names  of  my  two  favorite  dishes,  to  wit, 
as  follows: 

ist^— Hbg^jowl  and  turnip  greens — Paducah  sty  la 
2nd — ^Another  helping  of  the,  same. 


Editor's  Note: — Hog^  Jowl,  Paducah.  Style,,  may  be  pre- 
pared like  this : 

Get  the  jowl.  Some  prefer  it  cooked  and  served  with  the 
bone ;  others  remove  the  bone  before  serving.  Boil  it  in  well 
salted  water  for  thirty  minutes,  then  add  the  turnip  greens  and 
boil  at  least  thirty  minutes  longer.  Serve  with  plenty  of  butter 
for  dressing;  a  dash  of  vinegar  and  a  semi-colon  of  mustard 
are  used  by  some  folks  who  are  hard  to  please. 

Beet  greens  could  be  used  but  they  are  not  considered 
au  fait,  and  to  use  spinach  is  an  absolute  faux  pas. 

[48] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


XV 


Richard  Tf^alton  Tully 

HAWAIIAN  CROQUETTES  A  LA  "THE 
BIRD  OF  PARADISE" 

It  was  about  fifteen  years  ago  that  I  first  visited  the 
Hawaiian  Islands  in  search  of  material  for  my  play,  ''The 
Bird  of  Paradise,"  and  during  the  course  of  my  sojourn 
I  made  many  friends  among  the  natives,  often  living  weeks 
at  a  time  with  them  in  out-of-the-way  villages.  Although 
their  food  was  radically  different  from  ours  in  many  of  its 
contents  and  modes  of  making,  it  was  always  palatable, 
and  often  strikingly  delicious.  However,  most  of  the 
native  dishes  contained  ingredients  which  we  cannot  ob- 
tain here,  but  I  did  learn  how  to  make  what  some  of 
my  friends  have  nick-named  Hawaiian  Croquettes  a  la 
"Bird  of  Paradise,"  the  materials  for  which  are  easily  pro- 
cured. And  it  is  a  dish  so  wonderfully  appetizing  that  I 
constantly  prepare  it  for  guests  of  epicurean  tastes. 

First  grate  the  meat  of  half  a  cocoanut,  and  add  to  it 
a  cup  of  (cow's)  milk,  mixing  thoroughly,  and  straining 
through  cloth.  Melt  two  tablespoonsful  of  butter  over 
a  low  flame,  rubbing  into  it  with  the  back  of  a  spoon 
five  tablespoonsful  of  flour,  stirring  until  very  smooth. 
Then  add  slowly  the  strained  cocoanut  and  milk  liquid, 
stirring  constantly  until  very  thick.     Season  meanwhile 

[49] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

with  one  and  a  half  teaspoonsful  of  salt;  one  of  paprika, 
and  one  of  grated  onion.  Finally  add  two  cups  of  cold, 
boiled,  shredded  mullet,  or  any  other  firm  white  fish,  and 
two  cups  of  cold,  boiled,  chopped  lobster,  and  after  stir- 
ring: allow  to  cool. 

Shape  into  croquettes,  or  balls,  allowing  a  rounded 
tablespoonful  to  each  ball;  roll  in  fine  cracker  crumbs; 
dip  into  an  egg  which  has  been  slightly  beaten  and  ta 
which  one-quarter  of  a  cup  of  water  has  been  added ;  again. 
roll  in  cracker  crumbs. 

Have  a  deep  pan  of  fat,  hot  enough  to  fry  a  piece*  of 
bread  a  golden  brown  while  you  count  forty,  and  cook  the 
croquettes  therein  for  about  a  minute;  then  drain  on 
paper,  and  serve  with  olives. 


[50] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


XVI 


W^illiam  Johnston 


OYSTERS  PECHEUR 

One  keg  of  freshly  dredged  oysters  put  on  the  deck  of 
the  schooner  not  later  than  eight  p.  m. 

One  hundred  pounds  of  ice  put  on  top  of  the  oysters. 

Shell  and  eat  at  5  a.  m.  on  the  way  to  the  fishing 
grounds  with  salt  to  taste,  and  occasional  draughts  of 
hot  coffee. 


[51] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


XVII 


Dr.  Charles  M.  Sheldon 

LIKES  BREAD  AND  MILK 

A  recipe  of  my  favorite  dish  is  very  simple — bread  and 
milk  with  American  cheese  broken  into  it.  I  eat  this 
dish  once  a  day  every  day  and  find  it  wholesome  and 
nourishing.  It  does  not  require  any  skillful  putting  to- 
gether, simply  a  good  appetite  and  a  taste  for  that  sort 
of  provender.  If  there  is  an  apple  pie  anywhere  around 
to  top  it  off  with,  I  do  not  despise  that. 

I  find  as  a  rule  that  the  simpler  and  more  elementary 
the  food,  the  better  so  far  as  the  body  is  concerned.  And 
take  it  the  year  around  a  bowl  of  milk  with  fresh  bread 
and  rich  American  cheese,  finishing  up  with  "good  apple 
pie  like  mother  used  to  make,"  is  all  the  midday  meal 
I  need.  I  can  work  on  that  all  the  afternoon  and  feel 
better  than  if  I  had  had  a  seven  course  dinner. 


[52] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


XVIII 


James  Montgomery  Flagg 

"JAMES  MONTGOMERY  SUDS" 

This  is  a  dessert.  When  a  Swedish  cook  is  put  on  her 
mettle  to  suggest  a  dessert — something  different — she 
stands  a  while  in  uffish  thought,  then  breaks  out  into  a 
smile  of  satisfaction  and  says  "Snow  Pudding"!  It's 
Swede  law.  The  Swedes  must  suggest  Snow  Pudding 
when  asked  for  an  original  thought  in  the  dessert  line. 

So  this  dessert  of  mine  was  a  protest. 

There  is  one  very  difficult  ingredient — ^wine  jelly!  The 
jelly  is  easy  enough,  but  where  in  Jell  do  you  get  the 


wme : 


If  you  don't  have  wine  jelly — it's  all  off — no  use  be- 
ginning. If  you  can  get  the  wine  then  you  put  some 
cut-up  oranges  in  wine  jelly  with  an  inch  layer  of  beaten 
whites  of  eggs  on  top  and  lightly  brown  this.  A  loose 
custard  is  poured  on  each  helping.  It  sounds  rather  punk 
and  ladieshomejournalish  but  is  a  perfectly  good  dessert. 


[S3] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


XIX 


Roy  L.  McCardell 

''EGGS  MUSHROOMETTE" 

This  is  the  queen  of  breakfast  dishes  and  should  be 
served,  of  course,  with  broiled  ham,  the  king  of  breakfast 
dishes,  hot  buttered  toast,  and  several  cups  of  fresh-made, 
fragrant  and  just-strong-enough-to-bring-out-full-flavor, 
percolated  coffee! 

Kecipe 

Peel  and  slice  a  half  pound  of  fresh  mushrooms  and 
cook  in  butter  in  old-fashioned  frying  pan  till  nearly 
done.  The  pan  is  now  good  and  hot.  Moderate  the  heat 
and  put  in  three  fresh  eggs  and  fry  them  very  slowly, 
constantly  basting  top  of  eggs  with  the  hot  butter  the 
mushrooms  have  been  cooking  in.  Cook  well,  slowly  and 
thoroughly  till  all  the  mushrooms  that  attach  are  nestling 
in  the  white  of  the  eggs  like  plums  in  a  pudding.  Serve, 
when  thoroughly  cooked,  with  the  broiled  ham,  fresh 
coffee,  and  hot  buttered  toast. 

This  dish,  as  here  described,  is  for  one  person  only — 
as  it  is  too  good  to  be  shared  with  anybody  else. 

P.  S. — Eggs  should  never  be  fried  so  quickly  that 
the  whites  are  cooked  to  isinglass.     Cook  them  slowly, 

[54] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 

surely,  thoroughly  and  baste  with  hot  mushroom  butter 
as  directed,  and  you  will  have  Eggs  Mushroomette  and 
have  eaten  a  poem! 


[55] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


XX 


Judge  Ben  B.  Lindsey 


BRAN  MUFFINS 

Judge  Lindsey's  favorite  recipe  is  one  for  Bran  Muffins, 
as  follows: 

I       pint  milk 

1  egg 

Yz  pound  wheat  flour 
^  pound  bran  flour 

2  tablespoonsful  molasses 

2  ounces  pecan  meats  (3^s  or  ^s) 

2  ounces  sugar 

2  ounces  butter 

Yd,  ounce  salt 

2  ounces  Sultana  raisins 

I  ounce  baking  powder 

Sufficient  for  i8  muffins. 

Bake  30  minutes  in  well-heated  oven. 


Editor's  Note: — The  addition  of  Pecan  meats  with  the 
raisins  produces  a  muffin  that — well,  the  line  might  better  have 
ended  thus :  produces  a  muffin! 

[56] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


XXI 


Otis  Skinner 

ARTICHOKES,  MISTER  ANTONIO 

Force  a  small  opening  in  the  head  of  the  artichoke  by 
giving  it  a  blow  upon  the  table.  Then,  into  the  center 
pour  a  dessertspoonful  of  olive  oil  in  which  a  little  salt 
and  pepper  have  been  mixed.  To  this  add  a  quarter  of 
a  clove  of  garlic. 

Place  the  artichokes  in  such  position  that  they  may  not 
be  overturned.  Surround  them  with  cold  water,  and 
allow  them  to  boil,  covered  and  undisturbed,  for  half 
an  hour. 

This  is  an  Italian  method,  and  by  following  it  one  may 
understand  why  an  artichoke  need  not  taste  as  flat  as 
boiled  hay. 


[57] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


XXII 


Dan  Beard 


A  BURGOO 

Clean  and  dress  the  meat  of  a  soft-shelled  turtle,  a 
painted  turtle,  a  poker-dot  turtle,  or  almost  any  other 
kind  of  turtle.  Clean  and  dress  a  rabbit,  a  ruffled  grouse, 
moose  meat,  elk  meat,  deer  meat,  sheep  meat,  in  fact 
any  sort  of  game.  Cut  your  meat  into  pieces  about  the 
size  of  inch  cubes.  Save  the  bones,  especially  the  marrow 
bones,  to  put  in  with  the  meat.  Add  some  salt  pork  cut 
into  cubes,  if  you  have  it. 

If  you  have  been  thoughtful  enough  to  supply  your 
outfit  with  some  ill-smelling,  but  palatable  dry  vegetables, 
they  will  add  flavor  to  your  burgoo,  put  all  the  material 
in  a  kettle,  and  fill  the  kettle  half  full  of  water.  If 
you  have  beans  and  potatoes  do  not  put  them  in  with 
the  meat  because  they  will  go  to  the  bottom  and 
scorch.  While  the  stuff  you  have  already  put  in  the 
kettle  is  boiling,  or  simmering,  peel  your  onions  and 
quarter  them,  scrape  your  carrots  and  slice  them,  peel  your 
potatoes,  cut  them  up  into  pieces — about  inch  cubes. 
After  your  caldron  has  commenced  to  boil  dump  in  the 
fresh  vegetables,  they  will  cool  off  the  water  and  kill 
the  boil.  Do  not  let  it  come  to  a  boil  again,  but  put 
it  over  a  slow  fire  and  allow  it  to  simmer.    There  should 

[58] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 

always  be  enough  water  to  cover  the  vegetables.  A  can 
of  tomatoes  will  add  greatly  to  the  flavor.  Use  no  sweet 
vegetables  like  beets  or  sweet  potatoes.  Put  the  salt  and 
pepper  in  just  before  j^ou  take  it  off  the  fire.  When  the 
burgoo  is  done,  strain  it  into  tin  cups.  The  liquid  out  of 
an  olive  bottle  adds  greatly  to  the  flavor  if  you  pour  it 
in  while  the  stew  is  cooking.  If  you  have  such  luxuries 
in  camp  as  olives  and  lemons,  a  slice  of  lemon  with  an 
olive  in  each  cup  over  which  the  liquid  is  poured  makes 
a  dish  too  good  for  any  old  king  that  ever  lived. 

The  excellence  of  a  burgoo  depends  upon  two  things, 
the  materials  you  have  of  which  to  make  it  and  the  care 
you  take  in  cooking  it.  No  two  burgoos  are  alike,  and 
every  one  I  ever  tasted  was  mighty  good.  Civilized 
material  such  as  can  be  purchased  at  the  butcher  shop 
and  the  vegetable  store  makes  a  good  soup,  but  the  "goo" 
isn't  there.    Consequently  you  cannot  call  it  a  burgoo. 


[59] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


XXIII 

Dq  Wolf  popper 

RASPBERRY  SHORTCAKE 

RASPBERRY  SHORTCAKE,  with  the  assistance  of 
a  rich  and  kindly  disposed  cow,  meaning  lacteal  fluid  on 
same — that  is  my  chief  debauch ! 

Recipe  {for  two  people) 

Sift  a  level  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder  and  a  scant 
half  teaspoonful  of  salt  through  a  cupful  of  flour.  See 
that  the  mixture  is  thorough.  Take  lard  or  butter  (butter 
is  best)  and  work  it  well  into  the  flour  until  it  crumbles 
under  the  fingers.  Use  plenty  of  finger  work.  Now  add 
a  very  small  quantity  of  milk  and  work  into  a  dough  that 
is  easily  rolled  and  flattened  on  a  floured  board.  Roll 
out  and  cut  in  round  cakes  to  fit  cake  tins.  Have  cakes 
about  a  half  inch  thick.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until 
light  golden  in  color.  In  serving  have  lots  of  berries — 
half  of  them — crushed.  Split  the  shortcakes  and  butter 
them,  if  desired.  Above  all  use  thick,  rich  cream  in  gen- 
erous doses.  The  dish  is  really  best  when  the  cakes  are 
just  from  the  oven — instead  of  cold. 

The  same  goes  for  strawberry  shortcake  and  makes 
the  only  real  genuine  old-fashioned  shortcake, 

[60] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


XXIV 


Chick  Evans 


TOMATO  SOUP 

I  have  a  fondness  for  tomato  soup  and  steak  without 
grizzles.  Since  almost  any  one  can  broil  a  steak  I'll  pass 
that  up  and  tell  you  how  to  play  cream  of  tomato  right 
around  the  kitchen  course  in   par. 

You  can  take  ripe  tomatoes,  cut  them  up,  stew  them 
and  put  them  through  a  strainer.  You  can  add  a  bit  of 
soup  stock  and  seasoning  and  all  that,  but  the  easy  way 
is  to  take  some  of  Mr.  Campbell's  tomato  soup  and  add 
milk  instead  of  water — only  use  more  soup,  per  person, 
than  the  can  label  calls  for. 

Don't  boil  it — but  when  the  soup  is  good  and  hot  give 
it  a  bit  of  informal  seasoning  and  then  stir  in  a  lot  of  stiff 
whipped  cream.  Keep  back  enough  of  the  whipped  cream 
to  put  a  big  spoonful  of  it  in  the  center  of  each  plate. 

Use  the  can  opener  at  the  first  tee  and  with  luck  you'll 
be  on  the  dinner  table  in  an  easy  three.  Play  out  of  the 
soup  plate  with  a  good  sized  spoon  for  a  par  four — and 
there  you  are! 

You'll  be  able  to  whip  the  cream  without  detailed 
directions.  The  important  thing  is  choosing  the  right 
egg  beater  or  cream  whipper  or  whatever  you  use.  The 
next  important  thing  in  whipping  cream  is  stance.    You'll 

[6i] 


THE   STAG   COOK   BOOK 


gradually  acquire  that,  after  you've  spattered  the  front 
of  your  vest  a  time  or  two,  and  hooked  a  few  long  ones 
to  the  wall  paper.  I  believe  that  there  are  some  safety 
devices  for  whipping  cream,  but  they  take  all  the  sport 
and  excitement  out  of  the  thing. 


[62] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


XXV 


Joshua  A.  Hatfield 

EGGPLANT  SAUTE  A  L'ALEXANDER 

For  About  12  People 

Take  two  large  eggplants,  have  them  peeled  and  cut 
into  large  flakes  of  about  i]/^  inches  in  size,  season  with 
pepper  and  salt,  pass  through  flour  and  fry  in  hot  fat 
pan  to  brown  color;  chop  finely  and  saute  to  yellow  color, 
six  French  shallots  and  two  beans  of  garlic,  and  add  to 
the  eggplant.  Keep  stirring  on  moderate  fire  for  about 
three  minutes,  serve  in  vegetable  dish  and  spray  with 
chopped   parsley. 

POTATO  STICKS  ALEXANDER 

Take  six  nice  boiled  potatoes,  let  them  drain  and  pass 
through  sieve,  put  in  stewing  pan  on  the  fire,  add  four 
yolks  of  eggs,  one  spoonful  of  fresh  butter,  one  spoonful 
of  puff  paste;  one  green  pepper,  one  sweet  pepper,  two 
slices  of  boiled  ham  and  parsley  all  finely  chopped,  and 
pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 

Mix  while  on  the  fire  for  about  five  minutes,  then  let 
it  cool  down. 

Of  this  dough  roll  sticks  of  J^  inch  in  diameter  by 

[63] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


1 5^  inches  long,  pass  through  flour,  beaten  egg,  and  white 
bread  crumbs,  fry  in  fat  pan  and  serve  on  napkin  with 
fried  parsley. 


COLD  SAUCE  ALEXANDER 

{Served  at  India  House  with  Cold  Salmon) 
For  12  People 

Incorporate  into  good  mayonnaise,  chopped  chives,  par- 
sley, chervil,  two  tablespoonsful  of  French  mustard  and 
dash  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  paprika,  pepper  and  salt; 
stir  well. 


SUPREME  OF  CHICKEN  A  L' ALEXANDER 


Take  the  breast  of  a  four-pound  roasting  chicken  (stuff 
very  lightly  with  a  filling  made  of  chicken,  cream  and 
fresh  mushrooms  mixed  with  white  of  egg)  and  have  it 
poached  in  butter  and  chicken  broth.  After  being  done 
remove  the  supreme  and  have  the  sauce  reduced  to  one- 
quarter  of  its  volume,  then  incorporate  first  one  table- 
spoonful  of  sweet  butter  and  add  six  finely  chopped 
French  shallots,  one-half  glass  of  white  wine,  two  spoons- 
ful of  brown  sauce  (demi-glace),  season  well  with  pepper 
and  salt,  let  it  cook  for  about  three  minutes,  and  strain 
through  fine  sieve. 

Dish  supreme  on  a  fried  canape  cut  to  shape  and  sauce  it. 

[64] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


Garniture 

Fried  eggplant  cut  in  Julienne  shape 
Green  peppers  saute  in  butter 
Fresh  tomatoes  saute 

Arrange  the  vegetables  around  the  supreme  on  platter 
by  keeping  them  each  separately  and  serve  sauce  apart. 


FONDU  AU  FROMAGE  A  L' ALEXANDER 


Melt  two  tablespoonsful  of  butter  and  work  with  three 
spoonsful  of  flour  into  light  brown  color;  add  one  pint 
of  milk,  let  it  boil  for  five  minutes,  constantly  stirring; 
incorporate  J^  pound  of  grated  Swiss  cheese  or  domestic 
Roquefort,  a  little  salt  and  paprika,  and  bind  with  six 
yolks  of  eggs;  let  cool  down. 

This  preparation  cut  and  roll  into  sticks  of  %  inches 
diameter  by  i^  inches  long,  pass  through  flour,  beaten 
egg  and  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  crisp  in  hot  fat  pan. 

Serve  in  napkin  with  fried  parsley. 


POACHED  EGGS  EN  CROUSTADE  A 
L'ALEXANDER 

Work  into  a  dough  ^  pound  of  flour,  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  butter,  two  whole  eggs  and  a  little  salt;  cut  this 
pie-crust  dough  into  tartlette  forms,  say  3  inches  in  diam- 
eter, place  in  molds  and  bake  in  moderate  oven. 

[65] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

Melt  two  tablespoonsful  of  fresh  butter,  add  12  finely 
chopped  shallots,  %  pound  of  finely  chopped  fresh  mush- 
rooms, pepper,  salt,  and  let  it  simmer,  by  constantly  stir- 
ring, until  it  is  thoroughly  cooked,  and  finish  with  chopped 
parsley;  mix  well  into  this  two  tablespoonsful  of  demi- 
glace.  Cover  the  bottom  of  tartlettes  with  a  layer  of  this 
preparation,  place  a  freshly  poached  egg  on  top,  cover 
with  thick  cream  sauce,  spray  with  grated  Parmesan 
cheese,  a  dash  of  melted  butter,  and  bake  in  moderate 
oven  for  about  five  minutes. 

Dish  up  on  napkin  with  crisp  fried  parsley. 

ROMAINE  SALAD  A  L'ALEXANDER 

Decorate  half  a  head  of  Romaine  with  sliced  grape- 
fruit, sliced  orange  and  white  grapes  split  and  seeded, 
or  large  black  cherries. 

Prepare  dressing  as  follows:  Incorporate  into  French 
dressing  finely  chopped  chives,  French  mustard  and  tea- 
spoonful  of  red  currant  jelly;  mix  well  and  use  as  dress- 
ing for  above  salad. 

ROGNONS  DE  VEAU  A  ^ALEXANDER 

Take  six  fresh  veal  kidneys,  remove  skin  and  fat,  and 
cut  to  very  small  cubes,  adding  3^  pound  of  very  fine 
chopped  fresh  mushrooms,  and  put  aside. 

Melt  two  tablespoonsful  of  butter  with  twelve  finely 
chopped  shallots  and  brown  to  a  nice  golden  color.  Add 
[66] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 

the  kidneys  and  mushrooms  and  let  it  simmer  for  about 
eight  minutes,  taking  good  care  not  to  let  it  cook  too 
much,  preventing  the  kidneys  from  getting  hard;  incor- 
porate into  this  appareil  one  pint  of  demi-glace,  one 
cup  of  bread  crumbs  (for  thickening)  chopped  parsley, 
pepper  and  salt,  and  let  it  cool  down. 

Cut  round  canapes  of  bread  3  inches  in  diameter,  and 
Yz.  inch  thick,  and  fry  in  butter  to  crusts,  and  drain; 
then  cover  the  crusts  with  this  preparation  to  a  half  ball 
shape,  pass  through  beaten  egg,  spray  with  a  mixture  of 
bread  crumbs  and  grated  parmesan  cheese  and  dash  of 
melted  butter  on  top  and  bake  in  moderate  oven  for 
about  ten  minutes. 

Dish  up  on  napkin  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve  with 
demi-glace  sauce  separate. 

STRAWBERRY  TARTLETS  ALEXANDER 

Work  into  a  dough  J^  pound  of  flour,  ^  pound  sugar, 
I  tablespoonful  of  butter,  2  whole  eggs,  and  a  little  salt. 

Cut  the  dough  to  oval  or  round  tartlet  forms,  have 
them  baked  in  moderate  oven,  and  after  they  are  cooled 
down  fill  out  the  bottom  of  the  tartlets  with  custard 
(Creme  Patissiere).  Cover  the  cream  entirely  with  a 
layer  of  selected  fresh  whole  strawberries,  and  apply,  with 
a  decorating  brush,  lightly  diluted  red  currant  jelly; 
spray  the  top  with  finely  chopped  pistachio  nuts. 

BAKED  OYSTERS  ALEXANDER 
Open  six  large  oysters,  keep  in  deep  half  shell,  place 

[67] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

in  roasting  pan  and  cover  with  Sauce  Alexander  as  fol- 
lows: 

'  two  tablespoonsful  of  Chili  sauce 
one  tablespoonful  of  horseradish  sauce 
Mix:  J    one  tablespoonful  of  French  mustard 
one  dash  of  Worcestershire  Sauce 
finely  chopped  chives,  salt  and  pepper 

Take  good  care  the  oysters  are  entirely  covered  by 
the  sauce,  then  spray  with  bread  crumbs,  and  have  them 
baked  for  about  eight  minutes. 

EMINCE  OF  CHICKEN  A  L'ALEXANDER 

Select  a  choice  five-pound  fowl,  have  it  boiled,  cut 
into  flakes  and  put  aside. 

Brown  in  saucepan  ^  pound  of  butter  and  two  table- 
spoonsful  of  flour  to  a  nice  yellow  color,  add  to  this  one 
quart  of  chicken  broth  and  let  it  boil  for  a  few  minutes, 
keeping  on  stirring  it;  beat  into  this  sauce  six  yolks  of 
eggs  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  working  it  all  the  time, 
but  taking  good  care  not  to  let  it  boil  any  more;  pass  it 
through  a  fine  sieve  and  keep  it  hot  in  Bain-Marie. 

Cut  into  flakes  and  saute  in  butter  Yz  pound  of  fresh 
mushrooms,  then  take  ^  pound  flaked  boiled  Virginia 
ham,  one  bunch  of  finely  chopped  Tarragon  and  mix  this 
with  the  chicken  flakes  in  the  thoroughly  heated  sauce; 
season  with  salt,  pepper  and  paprika  to  taste  and  serve 
in  chafing  dish;  place  on  freshly  made  toast  or  hot  buck- 
wheat cakes. 
[68] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


XXVI 


Stewart  Edward  TVhite 


MULLIGAN 

This  is  a  camp  dish  to  be  cooked  over  an  open  fire. 
I  guarantee  nothing  on  a  stove.  I  know  nothing  of  stoves, 
and  have  a  dark  suspicion  of  them.  To  make  it:  Place 
in  a  kettle  half  full  of  cold  water  either  (a)  fish  cut  in 
chunks,  (b)  a  couple  of  dozen  clams,  or  (c)  a  half  dozen 
chunks  of  venison  about  the  size  of  a  tennis  ball,  depend- 
ing on  whether  you  want  a  Fish  Mulligan,  a  Clam  Mulli- 
gan, or  a  Game  Mulligan.  Also  depending  on  what  you 
have.  Also  a  half  dozen  peeled  potatoes  and  three  large 
onions.  Salt  and  pepper,  bring  slowly  to  a  boil.  Add  a 
handful  of  cubes  of  salt  pork  or  bacon.  Simmer  slowly 
until  the  potatoes  disintegrate.  If  you  have  the  remains 
of  a  can  of  corn  or  a  little  residue  of  cold  rice  or  any- 
thing of  like  nature,  drop  them  in.  Next  put  in  all  the 
stale  bread  or  hard  tack  the  traffic  will  bear.  Dissolve  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour  in  a  little  warm  water,  and  stir 
that  in  for  thickening.  Cook  slowly  until  you  can't  stand 
it  any  longer,  and  fly  to  it. 


[69] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


XXVII 

Oliver  Herford 

FRIED  ELDERBERRY  BLOSSOMS 

This  sounds  like  a  joke  but  it  is  a  perfectly  serious 
dish — I  made  its  acquaintance  at  the  table  of  a  little  inn' 
in  South  Baden,  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Constance. 

First  you  must  wait  until  the  elderberry  bushes  are  in. 
full  bloom.  Then  you  gather  a  good  sized  bunch  of  them- 
— and  cut  off  each  blossom  just  below  the  point  where 
the  little  stems  join  the  main  stalk. 

These  you  dip  into  a  light  egg  batter  such  as  is  used 
to  make  apple  fritters  (lighter,  perhaps),  taking  care  to 
cover  both  the  flower  and  as  much  of  the  little  stalks  as 
possible.  They  should  be  served  like  fritters  as  soon  as' 
made. 


[70] 


WRITTEN   FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


XXVIII 

Reed  Smoot 

PEACH  COBBLER 

One  of  my  favorite  dishes  is  peach  cobbler.  I  am  told 
that  it  originated  in  the  south,  but  its  fame  has  spread 
far  beyond  the  limits  of  the  Mason  and  Dixon  line.  It 
is  made  in  this  way : 

Line  a  baking  dish  or  pan,  about  three  and  one-half 
inches  deep,  with  a  rich  pastry.  There  must  he  no  break 
in  the  pastry.  Then  fill  the  dish  to  the  brim  with 
peaches — ripe,  luscious  ones,  that  have  been  pared  and 
broken — not  cut — in  half.  Sugar  generously,  and  leave 
in  about  six  or  eight  of  the  peach  pits — they  give  a  certain 
flavor  that  only  peach  pits  may  impart. 

Cover  the  peaches  with  an  unbroken  upper  crust  of 
pastry ;  seal  it  tightly  along  the  sides,  so  that  none  of  the 
juices  or  aromas  may  escape.  Bake  in  a  slow  oven  until 
nearly  brown — then  sprinkle  the  top  with  powdered  sugar, 
that  will  give  a  certain  professional  luster  to  the  dish. 
After  that  finish  the  browning  process. 

A  cobbler  containing  a  quart  of  peaches  should  bake 
for  about  one  hour. 

Editor's  Note: — Senator  Smoot  is  not  alone  in  his  par- 
tiality toward  peach  cobbler.  Back  in  the  days  before  Vol- 
stead, famous  cobblers  were  produced  just  as  above  with  the 
addition  of  brand}^  say  a  cup  to  a  quart  of  peaches — but  that, 
of  course,  was  a  long  time  ago. 

[71] 


THE   STAG   COOK   BOOK 


xxrx 

Ray  Long 

SHAD  ROE 

Dip  the  roe  well  in  melted  butter  or  bacon  fat,  place 
under  hot  broiler  flame,  cooking  for  five  minutes  on  each 
side.  Then  place  in  a  greased  baking  dish,  season  with 
salt,  tabasco,  Worcestershire  sauce  and  paprika.  Dot  over 
with  a  little  more  butter,  or  bacon  fat,  add  a  small  quan- 
tity of  hot  water,  cover  closely  and  bake  in  an  oven  until 
tender — about  fifteen  minutes.  This  may  be  garnished 
with  crisp  bacon  which  should  be  cooked  separately. 

Dessert 

Slice  fresh  pineapple,  cover  vrith  sugar,  and  put  on  ice 
for  several  hours.    Serve  with  lemon  water  ice. 


[72] 


WRITTEN   FOR   MEN    BY   MEN 


XXX 

Kenneth  C.  Beaton 

C'K.  C.  B.") 

LOBSTER 

Get  a  couple  of  lobsters. 
Split  and  cleaned. 
And  put  In  a  pan. 
And  dot  each  piece. 
With  bits  of  butter. 
And  put  the  pan. 
In  a  very  hot  oven. 
And  broil  ten  minutes. 
And  after  that. 
Lift  meat  from  shell. 
Onto   heated   plates. 
And  serve  with  sauce. 
Made  in  a  bowl. 
With  a  bit  of  mustard. 
Stirred   in   water. 
And  a  pinch  of  salt. 
And  of  paprika. 
Just  a  dash. 
And  a  scant  teaspoon. 
Of  Walnut  catsup. 
And  a  tablespoon. 

[73] 


THE    STAG   COOK   BOOK 

Of  Worcestershire  sauce. 
And  mix  them  all. 
With  half  a  cup. 
Of  melted  butter. 
That's  just  been  heated. 
And   not  boiled. 
And  serve  it  all. 
With  a  mess  of  potatoes. 
Baked  or  boiled. 
And  boy,  oh,  boy! 
There  is  a  dish. 
Fit  for  the  gods! 
I  thank  you. 


[74] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


XXXI 

John  Harvey  Kellogg^  M.  D. 

MACARONI  WITH  CHEESE 

lyz  cups  macaroni 

1  cup  Cottage  Cheese 

2  hard  boiled  eggs 
2      tb.  butter 

2       cups  milk  or  sufficient  to  cover  the  macaroni 

Boil  the  macaroni  in  salt  water  until  tender.  Place  a 
layer  of  macaroni  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking  dish,  a  layer 
of  cheese  (3^  C),  sliced  hard  boiled  eggs,  laj^er  of  maca- 
roni and  the  cheese — bits  of  butter  are  placed  between  the 
layers  and  on  the  top,  sprinkle  cracker,  bread  or  PEP 
crumbs  over  the  top,  moisten  with  cream  or  bits  of 
butter;  sufficient  milk  is  poured  over  to  just  cover  the 
macaroni  and  bake  in  rather  a  slow  oven  for  about  forty- 
five  minutes. 


SAVORY  POTATOES 

I  pint  sliced  potatoes 

Y2  small  onion 

I  tb.  butter 

I  cup  water 

iVz  teaspoon  salt 

[75] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


Place  the  thin  sliced  potatoes  In  the  bottom  of  a  baking 
dish,  slice  the  onion  over  this  and  add  the  remainder  of 
the  potatoes;  pour  hot  water  over  all  with  butter  and  salt. 
Bake  In  a  slow  oven  two  hours. 


[76] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


XXXII 


Clare  Briggs 


WAFFLES 

There  is  a  simple  but  effective  recipe  for  one  of  the 
kitchen's  most  wonderful  products. 

l^  cups  flour 

3       teaspoons  baking  powder 
Yz  teaspoon  salt 
I       cup  milk 

Yolks  of  2  eggs 

Whites  of  2    " 
I       tablespoon  melted  butter 

Mix  and  sift  dry  ingredients;  gradually  add  milk,  then 
yolks  of  eggs,  well  beaten.  Next  the  melted  butter  and 
last  the  whites  of  eggs,  beaten  stiff.  Cook  on  a  very  hot 
and  well-greased  waflle  iron  and  serve  with  maple  syrup. 

Editor's  Note: — President  Harding  favors  creamed  chipped 
beef  as  a  dressing  for  waffles  while  Mr.  Briggs  is  a  staunch 
supporter  of  the  sweet-tooth  school. 

For  those  who  like  the  sweet  stuff  this  variation  of  plain 
maple  syrup  is  worth  trying: 

Put  one  half  pound  of  strained  honey  in  a  double  boiler, 
or  a  small  pan  placed  in  water.  Heat  very  slozvly,  adding  a 
half  pint  of  pure  maple  syrup  with  which  has  been  previously 
mixed  two  teaspoons  of  powdered  cinnamon  and  a  dash  of 
caraway.  Heat  and  stir  until  thoroughly  mixed — but  do 
not  boil.     Serve  warm. 

[77] 


THE   STAG    COOK   BOOK 


XXXIII 


Edward  TV.  Bok 

ASPARAGUS 

The  food  I  like? 
The  dishes  I  really  crave  ? 

The  things  off  which  I  would  dine  every  day  of  my  life? 
I  never  see  them.     I  never  have  them. 
Why? 

Because  Mrs.  Bok  says  there  is  not  a  digestible  dish 
amongst  them. 

But  I  often  think  of  them, — wistfully,  oh,  so  wistfully! 
Here  they  are: 

Soft-shell  crabs,   done  in  hot  olive  oil;  or  hard-shell 
crabs;  deviled. 

Lobster  with  mayonnaise. 

Filet  Mignon :  panned  ir^  brown  butter. 

Veal  loaf. 

Roast  pork  tenderloin. 

Fried  eels. 

Sausages;  never  had  enough;  ditto  scrapple  1 

Currants  with  a  hot  roll  lightly  wound  through  them. 

Hot  fresh  doughnuts. 

French  pancakes  of  a  thinness  like  unto  gauze. 

Strong  black  coffee. 

Chocolate  meringue  glace. 

But  as  I  never  had  the  good  fortune  ta  know  the  above 

[78] 


WRITTEN   FOR   MEN    BY   MEN 

foods  at  first  hand,  I  cannot  well  give  you  the  recipes  for 
them. 

Perhaps  you  might  like  to  know  my  favorite  way  of 
serving  asparagus  in  my  home,  Dutch  fashion,  as  I  re- 
member it  in  my  native  land  of  The  Netherlands. 

The  asparagus  bunches  are  placed  in  a  double  boiler 
upright,  the  tips  being  above  the  water,  and  thus  cooked 
by  steam.  Passed  at  table,  with  the  asparagus,  is  hard- 
boiled  egg,  put  through  a  ricer,  a  small  quantity  of  finely 
ground  nutmeg  and  a  dish  of  hot,  melted  butter.  It 
always  has  to  be  explained  to  guests,  but  once  the  intro- 
duction is  over  the  convert  is  made! 


[79] 


THE    STAG   COOK   BOOK 


XXXIV 


Charles  Hanson  Towne 


CORN  PUDDING 

There  is  no  dish  I  like  better  than  a  Corn  Pudding 
made  just  like  this; 

2       cups  of  grated  corn 

Y2  cup  of  milk 

Yz  cup  of  cream 
I       tablespoonful  of  flour 

Yz  tablespoonful  of  salt 
I       teaspoonful  of  sugar 
I        tablespoonful  of  butter 
A  pinch  of  baking  powder 

Cook  for  a  half  hour  and  serve  immediately.  It  is  brown 
on  the  top,  and  in  a  deep  dish  it  is  the  most  succulent 
course  a  man  could  wish  for.  I  want  others  to  share  it 
with  me.  I  w^ish  I  could  give  a  party  every  night  with 
this  as  the  piece-de-resistance ! 


Editor's  Note: — In  speaking  of  the  origin  of  this  dish 
Mr.  Towne  says  that  it  was  "first  made  by  my  wonderful 
colored  housekeeper,  Hattie  Jefferson." 

[80] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


XXXV 

Jerome  D.  Kern 

TERRAPIN 

My  favorite  dish  is  Stewed  Terrapin  and  my  recipe 
follows : 

Cut  the  boiled  calves'  liver  into  moderate  sized  pieces 
and  put  into  stew  pan  with  sufficient  fresh  butter  to  stew 
it  well. 

In  another  pan  make  a  sauce  of  pre-Prohibition  Sherry 
or  Madeira,  flavored  with  the  beaten  yolk  of  one  egg, 
powdered  nutmeg  and  mace,  a  pinch  of  Cayenne  pepper, 
salt  to  taste,  enlivened  with  large  lump  of  butter. 

If  pre-Prohibition  Sherry  is  not  available,  names  and 
addresses  of  seventy-one  bootleggers  can  be  supplied. 

Stir  sauce  well,  and  just  before  it  comes  to  a  boil,  take 
it  off  the  fire. 

Use  three  or  four  hard-boiled  hens*  eggs  to  pinch  hit 
for  turtle's  eggs  and  send  to  the  table  piping  hot  in  chafing 
dish. 

IMPORTANT:  Serve  the  sauce  separately.  The  ter- 
rapin is  frequently  ignored  by  those  who  prefer  the  flavor 
of  the  sherry.     I  am  one  of  them. 


[8i] 

IS104 


THE   STAG   COOK   BOOK 


XXXVI 


Daniel  TVillard 


COTTAGE  PUDDING 

One  tablespoon  butter 

One  cup  sugar 

Two  eggs 

Half  cup  milk 

One  large  teaspoon  baking  powder 

One  and  a  half  cups  flour 

Bake  in  a  square  tin  and  serve  with  strawberry  sauce. 


STRAWBERRY  SAUCE 

One  large  tablespoon  of  butter  beaten  to  a  cream.  Add 
gradually  one  and  a  half  cups  powdered  sugar  and  the 
beaten  white  of  one  egg.  Beat  till  very  light  and  just 
before  serving  add  one  pint  of  strawberries  which  have 
been  cut  in  small  pieces. 


[82] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


XXXVII 


Houdini 


SCALLOPED  MUSHROOMS  AND  DEVILED 
EGGS 

The  Mushroom  Dish 

Choose  for  this  purpose  fine  firm  ones.  Pick,  wash, 
wipe  and  peel — then  lay  them  in  a  deep  pudding  dish 
well  buttered.  Season  them  with  pepper  and  salt,  and 
add  a  little  onion.  Sprinkle  each  layer  with  rolled  bread 
crumbs,  dot  with  small  pieces  of  butter  and  proceed  in 
this  way  until  dish  is  full,  having  the  top  layer  of  bread 
crumbs.     Bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

The  Eggs 

Boil  the  eggs  hard.  Remove  shells  and  cut  eggs  in 
half,  slicing  a  bit  off  the  ends  to  make  them  stand  up- 
right. Extract  yolks  and  rub  them  to  a  smooth  paste 
with  melted  butter,  cayenne  pepper,  a  touch  of  mustard 
and  a  dash  of  vinegar.  Fill  the  hollowed  whites  with 
this  and  send  to-  table  upon  a  bed  of  chopped  lettuce  or 
water  cress,  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  vinegar  and  a 
little  sugar. 


[83] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


XXXVIII 


Charles  P.  Steinmetz 


MEAT  LOAF 

I  have  been  consulted  about  very  many  things,  but  this 
is  the  first  time  I  have  been  consulted  on  gastronomical 
matters.  But  I  give  herewith,  from  my  camping  experi- 
ence, the  following  favorite  dish  of  mine: 

Beef,  veal,  and  pork  (sirloin  steak  and  chops),  ^  pound 
each.  Cut  off  the  bones  and  the  fat  from  the  beef  and 
veal,  leaving  the  fat  on  the  pork.  Then  pass  all  three 
through  the  meat  grinder,  chopping  fairly  fine.  Add  two 
complete  raw  eggs  and  some  finely  sliced  bacon  (Beechnut 
bacon,  cut  in  pieces  about  i  inch  square)  and  mix  every- 
thing together  thoroughly,  adding  the  proper  amount  of 
salt  and  pepper  and  if  available  some  celery  salt.  Form 
into  the  shape  of  a  round  loaf. 

In  a  cast  iron  or  cast  aluminum  frying  pan  (that  is  a 
pan  of  sufficiently  heavy  metal  to  well  distribute  thje  heat 
and  guard  against  local  burning)  melt  some  butter,  then 
put  the  loaf  in  the  melted  butter  and  cover  the  pan.  Heat 
on  a  very  low  fire,  turning  over  after  some  time,  and 
continue  for  a  long  time,  until  very  thoroughly  cooked 
through.  Add  butter  once  or  twice  when. absorbed.  Then 
uncover  and  greatly  raise  the  fire,  turning  over  after  a 
little  while  so  as  to  brown  both  sides, 

[84] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 

Then  take  out  the  loaf  and  put  It  on  a  warm  platter 
or  plate.  Now  pour  a  cup  of  cream  or  rich  milk  into 
the  pan,  stir  until  the  sediment  In  the  pan  Is  dissolved,  and 
heat  until  you  get  a  good  brown  gravy.  Pour  this  over 
the  loaf  and  serve  with  boiled  mealy  potatoes.  What  is 
left  over  can  be  eaten  cold,  sliced  and  served  on  buttered, 
toast. 


[8s] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


XXXIX 


Charlie  Chaplin 

STEAK  AND  KIDNEY  PIE 

This  Is  how  I  do  it: 

Get  2  pounds  lean  steak 
I   beef  kidney 
I  small  onion. 

Cut  the  steak  and  kidney  into  two  inch  pieces.  Flour 
them.  Add  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Line  a  deep  pie 
dish  with  rich  pie  crust  after  having  buttered  dish.  Put 
inverted  egg  cup  in  center.  Fill  with  meat  and  finely 
chopped  onion.  Add  water  almost  to  top  of  dish.  Roll 
pastry  half  inch  thick  and  cover  all.  Make  several  small 
holes  in  pastry  to  permit  steam  to  escape.  Bake  three  hours 
in  moderate  oven.     EAT. 


Editor's  Note: — Steak  and  kidney  pie  is  a  favorite  with 
many  beside  the  great  film  comedian.  Interesting  variations 
of  Mr.  Chaplin's  recipe  are : 

Lamb  kidney  instead  of  the  beef  kidney. 

Top  crust  only. 

Fry  the  meat  chunks  before  putting  them  into  the  pie. 

[86] 


WRITTEN   FOR   MEN   BY   MEN 


XL 


Dr.  Frank  Crane 


ROUND  STEAK 

Somebody  named  Johnson,  a  name  with  most  excellent 
vibrations,  writes  me  and  says  that  in  spite  of  rumors  he 
has  heard,  to  the  effect  that  I  have  a  hired  hand  or  two 
to  write  my  stuff,  he  believes  that  I  honestly  wrote  all 
by  myself  an  article  which  appeared  some  time  ago  over 
my  name.  In  which  I  stated  I  could  cook  round  steak 
so  that  It  would  taste  as  good  as  fried  chicken  and  be  as 
tender. 

"If  you  are  not  bluffing,"  he  says,  "you  could  do  a 
world  of  good  to  many  housekeepers  and  stag  clubs  if 
you  would  print  your  recipe.  The  writer  has  worn  the 
outer  coat  of  enamel  off  his  teeth  in  a  vain  attempt  to 
make  himself  believe  that  round  steak  is  as  tender  as 
chicken.     Give  us  a  hand,  pal." 

Hence,  being  called,  I  lay  my  cards  down,  face  up, 
on  the  table,  to  wit,  namely  and  as  follows: 

Have  the  butcher  cut  you  a  round  steak  thin.  A 
little  thicker  than  a  lead  pencil.  He  will  Insist  on  cutting 
it  thicker,  saying  it  will  be  juicier  and  so  on.  Draw  your 
revolver  and  compel  him  to  obey  you.  Don't  have  the 
steak  too  thick. 

'After  cutting  the  steak  from  the  piece,  have  him  separate 

[87] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

it  into  portions,  each  about  the  size  of  your  hand.  Don't 
try  to  cook  the  steak  all  in  one  piece.  It  must  be  in  small 
sections,  just  as  fried  chicken  is  best  when  each  joint  is 
cooked  separately. 

Have  the  butcher  then  take  his  sharp  knife  (which  is 
much  better  for  the  purpose  than  any  knife  you  have  at 
home,  because  he  knows  the  art  of  sharpening  and  you 
don't),  and  criss-cross  each  piece,  on  both  sides,  don't 
forget.  So  that  each  piece  will  be  in  tatters,  almost  ready 
to  fall  apart. 

Put  in  the  frying  pan  plenty  of  good  sweet  lard.  Don't 
use  butter.  It  will  burn.  Don't  fry  in  deep  fat,  as  with 
doughnuts,  but  plenty  of  fat,  as  with  fried  chicken. 

Rub  each  portion  of  the  raw  steak  in  flour.  Rub  it 
in  good.  Drop  into  the  hot  skillet.  Cover  it  with  lid. 
Keep  covered.    This  cooks  it  through  and  makes  it  tender. 

Fry  till  a  golden  brown,  turning  once  in  a  while.  You 
notice  the  process  is  exactly  as  with  fried  chicken,  Southern 
style. 

After  you  lift  out  the  meat,  put  in  the  flour,  let  it 
scorch  a  bit,  then  pour  water  and  milk  mixed  into  the 
hot  grease  and  meat  particles  left  in  the  skillet.  Just  how 
much,  you  will  have  to  find  out  by  experiment.  Let  it  boil 
up  and  boil  down,  keep  stirring,  until  you  have  gravy 
of  the  right  consistency.  Flavor  according  to  taste,  with 
salt  and  pepper,  before  cooking.  If  the  result  is  not  good 
it  is  because  you  have  not  followed  directions. 

Round  steak  not  only  is  cheap,  but  it  is  all  good  meat, 
with   the   minimum   of   waste,    and   properly   cooked    it 
TASTES  better  than  any  part  of  the  beef. 
[88] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


XLI 


Robert  H.  Davis 

CREAM  SAUCE  A  LA  WORCESTERSHIRE 

This  incomparable  concoction  is  to  be  united  in  the 
bonds  of  holy  wedlock  with  a  piece  of  fried  ham,  the  cere- 
mony to  be  solemnized  on  a  hot  rasher,  hooded. 

Select  a  thick  slice  of  mild  cured  ham,  fry  it  in  its  own 
fat  in  a  hot  skillet  until  both  sides  show  a  golden  brown. 
Place  in  a  large  cooking  spoon  one  spoonful  of  Worcester- 
shire sauce,  and  one  heaping  tablespoon  of  rich  cream. 
Set  the  cooking  spoon  in  frying  pan  beside  ham  until 
Worcestershire  and  cream  become  warm,  adding  a  few 
drops  of  ham  fat  while  the  sauce  is  heating.  Complete 
the  perfect  union  on  the  rasher  by  pouring  the  sauce  over 
the  ham. 

Put  a  Mendelssohn  Wedding  March  disc  on  your 
phonograph  and  conclude  the  honeymoon  at  the  table. 


Editor's  Note: — This  sauce  was  created  by  Mr.  Davis  at 
a  breakfast  given  at  the  Wyandanch  Club,  Long  Island,  by 
Mr.  Charles  R.  Flint  to  Admiral  Guy  Gaunt  of  the  British 
Navy  and  Irvin  S.  Cobb  of  the  United  States  of  America 
in  1915. 

[89] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


XLII 


John  A.  Dix 


FRIED  TROUT 

For  my  favorite  dish — unhesitatingly — baked  beans  and 
pork,  country  style. 

As  to  my  favorite  recipe,  that  requires  many  condi- 
ments, among  others  a  mountain  trout  stream;  the  in- 
spiration of  the  odor  of  the  woods;  the  vigor  of  early 
morning  and  the  pursuit.  The  requirements,  just  enough 
trout  plus  a  few.  From  the  pack  basket  take  a  piece  of 
pork  or  bacon,  fry  well  in  a  skillet  over  a  carefully  laid 
fire.  Prepare  the  fish  and  roll  well  in  fine  bread  crumbs 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  When  the  fish  are  done 
a  golden  brown  remove  from  the  skillet  and  partake  in 
the  aboriginal  manner,  eating  from  the  fingers.  Kings 
could  do  no  more. 


[90] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


XLIII 


Guy  Bates  Post 

LAMB  CURRY  A  LA  "OMAR,  THE 
TENTMAKER" 

I  onion   (diced) 

I  cup  of  stock 

Y2  cup  of  rice  water 

1  cup  of  potatoes,  which  have  been  previously  boiled 

and  diced 

2  cups  of  lamb,  cold  roast  preferred,  and  cut  into  the 

size  of  dominoes 
2       tablespoons  of  Curry  Powder  ( Cross  and  Blackwells, 
or  other  imported — never  domestic) 
Zest  of  one  lemon 
Salt  to  taste 

Give  me  the  above  ingredients,  and  I  will  make  you 
the  meat  dish  which,  above  all  others,  is,  to  my  way  of 
thinking,  the  most  savory  and  delicious.  Eight  years  ago, 
when  I  was  first  playing  "Omar,  the  Tentmaker,"  I  be- 
came acquainted  with  various  members  of  the  Persian 
Embassy,  who  were  especially  interested  in  the  play  be- 
cause of  its  Persian  locale,  and  it  was  while  dining  in  the 
home  of  one  of  these  gentlemen  that  I  first  became  initi- 
ated to  lamb  curry — that  is,  lamb  curry  as  it  really  should 
be  cooked !  Begging  the  recipe  from  my  host,  it  has  ever 
since  been  the  favorite  piece  de  resistance  in  my  home. 

[91] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

First  of  all  you  brown  the  onion  in  olive  oil  in  a  deep 
pan;  then  add  the  stock,  rice-water,  salt  and  curry  powder; 
the  latter  having  been  mixed  with  a  little  of  the  rice- 
water  to  insure  a  smooth  sauce.  Simmer  slowly  till  the 
oil  and  curry  float  in  dark  blobs,  add  the  lamb,  and  con- 
tinue simmering  and  stirring  until  just  before  serving, 
when  the  lemon  juice  should  be  dripped  in. 

Lamb  curry  should  always  be  served  with  hot  rice, 
taking  on  your  fork  equal  portions  of  both,  increasing  the 
amount  of  rice  in  case  you  find  the  curry  too  hot.  Never 
drink  water  with  curry,  as  it  intensifies  the  burning  sen- 
sation. The  amount  of  curry  powder  used  in  the  above 
recipe  can  be  increased  or  decreased  according  to  the  in- 
dividual taste.  Cold  cooked  shrimps,  lobster,  veal  or 
chicken  may  be  used  in  place  of  lamb;  but  never  beef. 
Personally  I  find  that  lamb  produces  the  finest  curry  dish. 


[92] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


XLIV 

Dr.  Don  Rafael  H.  Elizalde 

(Minister  from  Ecuador) 

SANCOCHO 

Four  pounds  of  loin  beef  cut  into  two-Inch  squares. 

Eight  good-sized  potatoes. 

Five  or  six  ears  of  green  corn,  broken  in  lengths  of 
two  inches. 

Water  sufficient  to  make  the  amount  of  soup  required. 

Boil  until  the  beef  is  tender,  with  the  potatoes,  then  add 
the  corn  and  cook  until  done. 

Onions — 

Slice  thin  three  large  onions — boil  for  half  an  hour, 
drain  and  cool.     Then  pour  olive  oil  over  them. 

Banana  Paste — 

One  quart  of  milk  in  a  double  boiler;  add  two  heaping 
tablespoonsful  of  banana  flour  mixed  in  a  little  milk  to 
a  smooth  paste,  and  cook  from  half  hour  to  an  hour. 

How  to  Serve — 

Strain  the  soup  through  a  colander  and  serve  in  a 
tureen,  placing  meat,  potatoes,  corn,  onions  and  banana 

[93] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

paste  in  separate,  individual  dishes  from  which  each  per- 
son may  help  themselves. 

(In  South  America  the  yucca  and  plantains  are  used 
in  this  dish.) 

YAPINGACHO 

Make  potato  cakes  by  the  ordinary  recipe,  but  before 
shaping  them  place  a  piece  of  cream  cheese  the  size  of 
a  walnut  in  the  center  of  each;  then  fry  brown  in  very 
little  fat. 
Sauce — 

One  quart  of  milk  and  one  half  pound  of  peanuts 
ground  fine;  boil  until  thick,  seasoning  with  salt,  paprika 
and  butter. 

Serve  the  potato  cakes  with  fried  eggs*  and  pour  the 
sauce  over  both. 


[94] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


XLV 


Bide  Dudley 

TOMATO  SOP 

Slice  firm,  ripe  tomatoes ;  roll  in  flour  and  fry  in-  equal 
parts  of  lard  and  butter  until  brown  on  both  sides.  Re- 
move several  slices  to  a  platter,  stir  those  remaining  with 
flour  and  small  lumps  of  butter:  then  thicken  with  milk 
and  season  to  taste. 

Sop  with  bread  or  toast. 


Editor's  Note: — This  is  good.  But  in  the  interest  of  the 
culinary  art  it  should  be  stated  that  the  flour,  and  not  the 
milk,  is  the  thickening  agent. 

Try  it — you'll  thank  the  author  of  "tomato  sop." 

[95] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


XLVI 

W^illiam  Hale  Thompson 

(Mayor  of  Chicago) 

ROAST  BEEF 

My  favorite  food  is  Roast  Beef,  rare,  or  a  good  Ameri- 
can sirloin  steak,  which,  I  take  it,  are  so  simple  to  prepare 
that  they  need  no  recipe. 

S.uggestions: 

1.  Stand  your  roast  on  two  or  three  thin  slices  of  bacon 
— not  too  fat. 

2.  On  the  top  of  the  roast  lay  three  or  four  thin  slices 
of  lemon — particularly  if  you  like  the  ''outside  cut." 

3.  If  your  steak  looks  a  bit  fresh  rub  with  lemon  juice 
(both  sides)  and  allow  to  stand  several  hours  before  broil- 
ing or  frying.  Don't  be  frightened  if  it  turns  a  bit  black 
— be  glad. 

4.  Pan  may  be  rubbed  with  garlic. 

5.  Steaks  should  be  thick,  particularly  if  you  broil. 


[96] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


XLVII 

Booth  Tarkington 

CORN  FLAKES 

My  favorite  dish  is  corn  flakes.  They  should  be  placed 
in  a  saucer  or  hollow  dish,  then  lifted  in  both  hands  and 
rolled  for  a  moment,  then  dropped  back  into  the  dish. 
After  that  an  indefinite  quantity  of  cream  should  be 
poured  upon  them.  They  should  be  eaten  with  a  spoon. 
I  don't  know  how  to  prepare  anything  else  for  the  table. 
I  think  the  best  Kennebunkport  manner  of  steaming  clams 
is  as  follows: 

A  bushel  of  clams 

4  dozen  lobsters 

4  dozen  ears  of  sweet  corn 

4  dozen  sweet  potatoes 

4  dozen  eggs 

A  cartload  of  seaweed,  a  bonfire  burning  for  six  hours 
on  rocks,  then  swept  away ;  the  lobsters,  clams,  etc.,  placed 
in  the  seaweed,  and  the  seaweed  on  the  hot  rocks  and 
covered  with  BBB  canvas.  Allow  to  steam  until  screams 
of  distress  issue  from  the  seaweed;  then  be  careful  what 
you  eat! 


[97] 


THE   STAG   COOK   BOOK 


XLVIII 

T.  A.  Dorgan 

CHILI  CON  CARNE 
Comes  through   with   a  natural 

What  is  my  favorite  filler  for  the  feed  bag?  Well,  I'll 
be  on  the  square  with  my  answer.  .  .  .  It's  Chili  con 
Carne. 

I  might  have  said  Terrapin  Maryland,  or  some  other 
Ritzy  dish,  but  thought  I'd  better  come  with  a  natural. 

I'll  play  Chili  con  Carne  and  tamales  as  they  are  served 
in  California  (where  I  was  born)  against  any  dish  I've 
ever  forked  over. 

Recipe 

Cut,  say,  two  pounds  of  good  beef  in  small  pieces  the 
size  of  the  first  finger  joint.  Add  some  of  the  chopped 
fat,  mix  and  salt. 

Put  two  tablespoonsful  of  lard  in  a  deep  pot  and  heat. 
To  this  add  a  chopped  onion.  When  the  onion  is  about 
half  cooked  add  the  meat.  Stir  well  until  the  meat  has 
boiled  down  in  its  juice.  When  it  starts  to  fry  add  about 
one  and  a  half  pints  of  hot  water,  three  tablespoonsful  of 
Gebhardt's  Eagle  Chili  Powder  and  a  few  buttons  of 
chopped  garlic.  Simmer  and  stir  well  until  the  meat  is 
tender. 

[98] 


WRITTEN.  FOR,  MEN    BY   MEN 


XLIX 


JVtlliam  De  Leftwich  Dodge 


RAGOUT  DE  MOUTON 

I  think  my  favorite  dish  is  "Ragout  de  Mouton,"  or, 
I  would  say,  the  one  I  cook  the  best. 

The  way  it's  done  is  this: 

Cut  up  lamb  in  small  pieces  and  fry  it  in  a  frying  pan. 
Slice  three  or  four  carrots  and  onions  and  fry  them  with 
it.  When  these  are  nicely  browned,  put  into  a  pot,  cover 
with  water,  and  let  boil  slowly  for  an  hour.  Then  put 
in  a  few  potatoes  and  turnips  (cut  up  in  small  pieces), 
and  boil  until  done.    Season  as  you  see  fit. 


[99] 


THE    STAG   COOK   BOOK 


Montague  Glass 

BOUILLEBAISSE 

Bouillebalsse  is  my  favorite  dish.  I  make  it  according*t(> 
the  recipe  of  Valentine  Blanc,  our  cook  in  Nice,  where 
we  lived  some  years  ago.  Valentine  could  neither  read 
nor  write,  nor  could  a  story  tell,  but  her  Bouillebaisse 
was  ever  so  much  better  than  that  they  make  in  Mar- 
seilles (and  I  venture  to  say  in  Thackeray's  old  restaurant 
either). 

Melt  about  a  half  pound  of  butter  in  a  sauce  pan. 
I'm  aware  that  in  Marseilles  they  use  oil,  but  Valentine 
used  butter.  Don't  let  the  butter  burn.  Have  ready  two 
large  chopped  onions — i.  e. — onions  chopped  fine,  and  two 
"dents"  of  garlic  also  chopped  fine. 

Cook  these  in  the  butter  until  tender  and  without  burn- 
ing. Have  ready  three  perch  and  one  haddock.  That  is  to 
say:  cut  off  the  heads  and  tails.  Some  people  use  eels  in- 
stead of  haddock.  I  detest  eels.  Cut  into  a  large  saucepan 
the  heads  and  tails  of  the  fish  with  about  a  quart  of  water 
and  let  simmer  until  well  cooked,  say  about  half  an  hour. 
Strain  out  the  heads  and  tails  and  give  them  to  the  cat. 

Add  the  cooked  onions  and  garlic, — butter  and  all — to 
the  strained  bouillion  from  the  heads  and  tails  and  allow 
to  simmer  for  half  an  hour  more,  after  seasoning  to  taste 

[lOO] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 

with  salt  and  white  pepper.  Add  about  a  gill  of  dry 
white  wine  of  any  variety, — Chablis,  Cotes  du  Rhone  o]> 
what  not, — the  cheaper  the  wine  the  better.  Now  take. 
two  smallish  lobsters,  alive,  and  if  you  have  the  heart,  cut 
them  into  segments  and  take  off  the  claws  and  cut  therrif 
into  segments.  Cook  the  massacred  lobster  for  about  a; 
quarter  of  an  hour  in  the  liquid  or  liquor  or  bouillon  above* 
described  and  add  a  saltspoonful  of  dried  Spanish  saffron, 
while  the  whole  is  cooking  together.  If  you  can  get  mus- 
sels, cook  also  with  the  entire  mess,  a  dozen  or  so, — in  their 
shells  if  the  shells  be  well  scrubbed  in  advance.  Some- 
where in  this  process  add  about  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
parsley.  Last  of  all,  add  the  fish  cut  into  convenient 
slices  rather  small,  and  let  cook  until  done,  but  not  long 
enough  so  that  the  fish  becomes  disintegrated.  Remember 
there  ought  to  be  no  violent  boiling. 

Before  serving  strain  off  most  of  the  liquor  and  serve 
it  first  as  soup  with  a  slice  of  toast  in  the  bottom  of  the 
plate.  If  the  toast  has  been  fried  in  advance  in  good 
butter,  so  much  the  better,  but  this  is  not  necessary.  Then 
eat  all  the  solid  part  except  the  shells  and  sop  up  all  the 
remaining  gravy  with  bread,  using  your  fingers  to  do  the 
job  and  not  a  fork.    Don't  leave  a  bit  of  it. 

There  ought  to  be  enough  of  this  stew  for  four  people, 
but  I  can  usually  manage  the  whole  thing  myself  with 
only  the  slightest  assistance  from  my  wife.  Wine  ought  to 
be  drunk  with  the  meal,  a  good  Burgundy  Beaune  or 
Chambertin.  Later  one  should  eat  an  artichoke  cold 
vinaigrette,  then  some  fruit  and  cheese  and  two  small  cups 
of  well  made  black  coffee.     After  this  it  is  necessary  to 

[lOl] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

smoke  a  Corona  Corona  not  too  mild,  and  drink  a  small 
glass  of  Cointreau  Sec.  The  bread  ought  to  be  Pain 
Riche  in  flutes.  The  fruit  may  be  fresh  apricots,  a  few- 
green  almonds  and  perhaps  some  green  gages. 

The  coffee  ought  to  be  drunk  and  the  cigar  smoked 
in  the  garden  which  must  be  in  the  vicinity  of  Mount 
Boron  on  the  Grande  Corniche  or  it  may  be  in  the  Pare 
Imperial.  God  ought  to  be  thanked  either  during  or 
after  the  meal,  and  when  it  becomes  a  little  too  cold  in  the 
garden  a  fire  should  be  built  in  the  small  living  room  and 
one  should  read  Somerville  &  Ross'  Recollections  of  an 
Irish  R.  M.,  or  Neil  Lyon's  Simple  Simon,  or  Belloc's 
Path  to  Rome,  or  Richard  Ford's  Gatherings  from  Spain 
until  bedtime. 

Repeat  the  whole  process  on  the  following  Friday. 

God !    How  hungry  I  am. 


[102] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


LI 


John  Philip  Sousa 

PELOTAS  A  LA  PORTUGUESE 

"This  serves  from  six  to  eight  people  and  is  my 
favorite  dish,'' 

One  quart  can  of  tomatoes.  Put  in  kettle  on  top  of 
stove,  simmer  or  let  boil  slowly  for  one  and  a  half  hours. 
Add  pepper,  salt,  two  onions  cut  in  fine  slices,  four  all- 
spice and  four  cloves.  The  cloves  and  allspice  to  be 
added  after  it  starts  to  boil.  After  two  and  a  half  hours 
add: 

Two  pounds  chopped  beef ;  add  one  onion,  chopped  fine, 
two  cups  bread  crumbs,  a  little  parsley,  salt  and  pepper. 
Make  into  meat  balls  about  the  size  of  a  plum.  Put  into 
sauce  and  boil  one  and  one-half  hours  slowly.  This  makes 
fully  three  hours'  slow  boiling  for  the  sauce. 

SPAGHETTI 

Use  a  package  or  a  pound  of  spaghetti;  not  macaroni. 
Have  a  large  pot  of  boiling  water  with  about  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Slide  the  spaghetti  into  the  water. 
Do  not  break  it.  Boil  exactly  twenty  minutes.  Must  be 
tender,  not  tough  nor  doughy. 

[103] 


THE   STAG    COOK   BOOK 

To  sauce,  add  three  bay  leaves  one  hour  before  taking 
off  the  stove. 

Serve  spaghetti  on  large  platter,  pouring  tomato  sauce 
over  it.  Serve  pelotas  on  smaller  platter,  allowing  a  small 
quantity  of  sauce  to  remain  on  them. 

Serve  grated  Parmesan  cheese  on  side.  Use  a  piece  of 
cheese  to  grate,  not  bottled  cheese. 


[104] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


LH 


VTill  Hays 

CHICKEN  PILAU 
"Get  a  fat  hen — the  fatter  the  better/' 

Because  this  recipe  comes  from  a  Southern  cook,  there 
are  no  accurate  measurements. 

Sam  would  always  recommend  a  *'fat  hen" — "the  fatter 
the  better,"  and  "  'nough  rice  and  plenty  of  pepper." 

This  I  know :  The  chicken  is  cut  up  and  boiled  in  the 
water  until  tender.  Should  be  cooked  in  a  good  sized  flat 
bottom  kettle.  When  the  chicken  is  tender  there  should 
be  enough  of  the  stock  to  come  up  well  around  it,  but 
not  to  cover  it.  Then  put  in  with  the  chicken  about  a 
scant  pint  of  well  washed  rice.  This  should  be  stirred 
ONCE,  Sam  says,  and  allowed  to  steam  slowly  an  hour. 
Use  plenty  of  pepper  to  season  and  salt  to  taste.  Each 
grain  of  rice  should  be  fat  and  juicy.  Successfully  made 
it  is  delicious. 


Editor's  Note: — The  Chicken  Pilau  recommended  by  Mr. 
Hays  is  delicious.  A  variation  perhaps  equally  good,^  may 
be  had  by  substituting  broken  spaghetti,  or  vermicelli  for 
the  rice. 

[105] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


LIII 


Frank  JVard  O'^Malley 

RUM-TUM-TIDDY 

— has  the  best  Welsh  rabbit  backed  off  the  stove. 


Take  one  country  home  in  New  Jersey.  One  dependa- 
ble apple-jack  bootlegger.  One  cook  who  threatens  to 
leave  unless  she  can  begin  her  nightly  visits  to  her  daugh- 
ter in  the  village  as  early  as  seven-thirty  o'clock. 

Take  three  or  four  acquaintances  who  drop  in  for  apple- 
jack cocktails  just  as  your  cook  is  about  to  put  the  steak 
on  to  broil.  Then  have  your  guests  linger  near  the  cock- 
tail shaker  until  you,  your  wife  and  especially  your  de- 
layed cook  are  approaching  hysteria. 

"Why  not  stay,"  you  now  announce  to  your  guests  in 
desperation,  ''and  we'll  all  make  a  rum-tum-tiddy?" 

You  now  tell  your  grateful  cook  not  to  bother  preparing 
a  meal.  You  next  take  one  flivver  and  hurriedly  drive 
her  to  her  daughter's  in  the  village.  Then  you  buy  in 
the  village  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  American  cheese, 
one  can  of  Campbell's  Tomato  Soup  and  a  dozen  bottles 
of  beer — real  beer,  if  you  can  get  it,  Volstead  beer  if  you 
can't. 

iVO^;— - 

Pry  your  guests  away  from  the  cocktail  shaker  and  shoo 
[io6] 


WRITTEN    FOR   MEN    BY   MEN 

them  into  the  kitchen.  Everybody  from  this  on  who  is 
not  occupied  in  mincing  the  green  pepper  in  a  chopping 
bowl  is  busy  cutting  the  American  cheese  into  cubes  about 
an  inch  square.  Ever>^body  else  beats  two  fresh  eggs — 
whites  and  yolks  together. 

Drop  a  lump  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  to  prevent 
"sticking."  Begin  to  melt  the  pound  and  one  half  of 
diced  cheese  in  the  saucepan,  stirring  the  lumps  to  prevent 
burning.  When  the  cheese  is  fairly  well  melted,  pour 
into  it  the  can  of  tomato  soup  and  the  two  beaten  eggs. 
Stir  into  the  mixture  about  one-third  of  a  bottle  of  beer. 
Pour  in  also  the  finely  chopped  green  pepper  and  continue 
stirring  until  smooth. 

Have  hot  dinner  plates  ready,  each  plate  containing  a 
large  slice  of  hot,  unbuttered  toast.  Place  at  least  one 
bottle  of  beer — two  if  it's  real — beside  each  plate. 

Holler  ''Ready,  people!"  and  pour  on  each  piece  of 
toast  enough  of  the  contents  of  the  saucepan  to  form  a 
pinkish  overflow  of  rum-tum-tiddy  on  the  plate. 

That's  all — except  to  shake  'em  up  a  semi-final  cocktaij 
and  then  start  right  back  to  the  village  in  the  flivver 
for  another  pound  and  one  half  of  cheese,  another  pepper 
and  more  beer  to  make  another  immediately  when  the  first 
rum-tum-tiddy  is  gone.    One  calls  for  two,  often  three. 

Serve  preferably  in  the  kitchen.  Serve  in  any  room  far 
from  the  kitchen  if  you  want  leg  work  exercise.  Eat  until 
gorged. 


[107] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


LIV 


Charles  Evans  Hughes 

CORN  BREAD 
''My  favorite  dish  is  corn  bread  and  honey!' 

And  here  is  a  recipe  for  corn  bread: 

2  cups  of  flour 

3  cups  of  cornmeal 

4  heaping  teaspoonsful  of  baking  powder 
2  eggs  well  beaten 

I  teaspoonful  salt 

I  tablespoonful  sugar 

1  pint  of  milk 

2  tablespoonsful  of  melted  butter 

Mix  the  meal  and  flour,  baking  powder,  salt  and  sugar. 
Beat  the  eggs  until  they  are  light,  then  add  the  eggs  and 
milk  to  the  meal.  Beat  to  a  light  smooth  consistency 
and  add  the  melted  butter.  Bake  in  a  shallow  pan 
(greased)  for  about  twenty-five  minutes. 

Eat  while  hot  and  use  plenty  of  fresh  butter  and  honey. 


Editor's  Note: — There  is  a  white  meal  and  a  yellow.  Ex- 
pert appraisers  of  corn  bread  have  said  that  the  white  meal 
is  preferable.  Still  the  golden  hue  of  a  pan  of  hot  corn  bread 
is  not  to  be  passed  up  lightly. 

[io8]. 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


LV 


Weaker  Prichard  Eaton 

MINCE-PIE 

"Made  any  other  way  it's  not  mince-pie/' 

My  favorite  dish,  and  the  best  food  in  the  world,  is  King 
Canute  Pudding,  but  I  shall  not  tell  anybody  how  to 
make  it,  because  that  is  a  family  secret.  I  am  descended 
from  Canute,  and  this  was  the  pudding  he  ate  and  which 
made  him  feel  so  good  that  he  went  out  and  bade  the  tide 
to  cease  rising.  The  recipe  is  handed  down  in  each 
generation  of  my  tribe.  It  was  my  paternal  grandmother 
who  had  it  to  pass  on.  She  lived  to  be  ninety-nine,  thanks 
to  her  own  wonderful  cooking  and  a  cantankerous  dis- 
position. Her  mince-pie  was  a  thing  to  write  sonnets 
about.  It  was  the  second  best  food  in  the  world.  For 
ten  years  after  I  went  to  New  York  I  lived  on  the  mem- 
ory of  that  pie  and  shuddered  at  the  horrendous  messes 
masquerading  under  the  same  name  which  were  offered 
to  me. 

Then  I  moved  back  to  New  England  and,  achieved  a 
cook  who,  by  the  grace  of  God  and  the  right  bringing 
up  could  make  a  pie  like  it.  For  six  years  I  knew  happi- 
ness again.  Then  we  lost  Kate,  the  incomparable.  My 
only  hope  was  my  wife  and  that  was  a  feeble  hope,  in- 

[109] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

deed.  She  was  born  not  in  the  pie  belt,  but  in  New  York. 
She  had  never  cooked.  She  was  an  Episcopalian.  I  ap- 
proached the  next  Thanksgiving  breakfast  with  gloomy 
forebodings. 

But  lo,  a  miracle.  It  was  an  orthodox  mince-pie.  It 
was  Katie's  mince-pie.  It  was  grandmother's  mince-pie — 
in  short,  it  was  mince-pie.  Here  is  the  way  to  make  it. 
Made  any  other  way  it's  not  mince-pie. 

The  Filling 

Affix  the  grinder  firmly  to  the  edge  of  the  table.  What 
the  palette  is  to  the  artist  so  is  the  grinder  to  the  creator 
of  mince  meat.  Then  pass  the  following  ingredients 
through  the  grinder,  and  from  thence  into  a  large  kettle 
and  let  the  latter  and  its  glorious  contents  simmer  on  the 
stove  for  the  best  part  of  a  morning,  stirring  them  fre- 
quently so  that  no  portion  shall  be  neglected  and  fail  to 
come  into  close  union  with  the  soothing  heat  that  mellows 
all  into  one  fragrant  whole.  Take  from  the  stove  and 
store  in  stone  crocks  or  glass  jars  in  the  dark,  and  keep 
tightly  covered.  When  about  to  fashion  a  pie  take  out 
as  much  of  the  meat  as  you  desire,  wet  it  with  boiled 
cider  and  with  fresh  cider,  too,  if  possible,  so  that  it  is 
not  stiff,  and  bake  between  the  crusts  whose  ingredients 
are  given  below.  Eat  hot  with  soft  dairy  cheese  and 
coffee. 

The  meat  should  be  thoroughly  boiled  the  day  before 
the  mince  meat  is  made,  and  the  cider  should  be  boiled 
down  at  home — not  bought — until  it  is  the  consistency  of 
[no] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 

molasses.  Boil  enough  to  last  all  winter  and  put  in  glass 
jars.  Now,  alas,  that  no  liquors  may  be  had,  it  is  well  to 
bottle  fresh  cider  and  put  it  away  where  it  is  cool,  so 
that  with  luck  it  may  stili  be  fresh  when  in  March  you 
scrape  the  last  jar  for  the  last  pie.  Only  use  care  when 
it  is  opened,  or  perchance  it  will  be  the  ceiling  rather 
than  the  pie  which  will  be  wet  down. 

5       cups  cooked  beef;  after  grinding 
lYz     "      suet 
7/^     "      apples 
3         "      cider 

^2  cup  vinegar 
I       cup  molasses 
5       cups  sugar 

^  pound  citron 
2^^  pounds  raisins 
I J^       "        small  raisins  (not  to  be  put  through  grinder) 

salt  to  taste 

juice  and  rind  of  2  lemons 

juice  and  rind  of  2  oranges 

1  tablespoon  mace  and  nutmeg  (or  2  nutmegs  grated) 

2  tablespoons  each  of  cinnamon,  cloves  and  allspice 

2  **  lemon  extract 
I       teaspoon  almond  extract 

3  cups  liquor  in  which  beef  was  cooked 

If  you  have  wine  or  brandy  put  in  a  cupful  after  taking 
from  the  fire. 

The  Crust 

2  cups  pastry  flour  sifted  with  teaspoon  salt. 
3^  cup  (generous)  of  lard  mixed  in  with  fingertips  till 
the  combination  is  fine  and  powdery. 

[Ill] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

Wet  with  cold  water,  mixing  with  knife,  and  cutting, 
till  you  can  take  the  dough  from  the  bowl  without  sticking 
to  it.  Divide  in  half,  pat  gently  on  floured  marble  slab, 
and  roll  out  thin.  Lift  lower  crust  carefully,  place  in  tin 
and  trim  off  edges.  Roll  out  from  trimmings  a  strip  half 
an  inch  wide  and  place  on  top  of  lower  crust,  around  edge, 
first  wetting  edge  slightly  with  cold  water.  Put  in  filling, 
place  upper  crust  on  top,  first  wetting  edge  of  rim  slightly 
with  cold  water,  press  together  with  tines  of  fork  and 
trim  off  overhanging  of  upper  crust.  Prick  a  large  T.  M. 
on  the  top  crust  and  bake  in  hot  oven  till  brown. 

(The  T.  M.  stands  for  "  'Tis  Mince"  to  distinguish  it 
from  the  pies  labeled  T.  M.  for  "  'Tain't  Mince.") 


[112] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


LVI 


TV.  T.  Benda 


POLISH  SPECIALTIES 

In  following  my  Polish  recipes  you  will  find  a  prac- 
tical use  for  the  geometry  of  your  school  days.  If  you 
have  forgotten  the  axioms  of  Euclid,  take  a  correspondence 
course  before  attempting  ''Ushka." 

It  is  simple  when  you  finally  master  it — and  marvel- 
ously  good.  Don't  forget  the  line  B  D.  Everything 
hinges  on  that. 

BARSHCK  WITH  USHKA 

Barshck.     {Or  Polish  Beet  Soup) 

If  you  are  brave,  put  three  large  beets,  peeled  and  quar- 
tered into  a  glass  jar  and  pour  on  them  a  quart  of  water, 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  slice  of  rye  bread.  Keep 
this  in  a  warm  place  for  about  five  days.  There  will 
form  a  sour  red-wine-like  juice  with  a  whitish  mold  skin 
on  the  top.  Don't  lose  your  courage,  take  this  skin  off 
and  pour  off  the  juice. 

Then  prepare  a  quart  of  beef,  pork  and  vegetable  stock 
and  while  it  is  hot  add  to  it  all  your  beet  juice  and  a 
bottle  of  cream  which  you  previously  have  beaten  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  flour.     Heat  and  stir  it  all  just  to  boiling 

[H3] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

point,  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  and  serve  with  or  without 
"Ushka"  which  are  fully  described  in  the  next  paragraph. 


Ushka 

Barshck  is  really  not  complete  without  "Ushka,"  and 
as  they  are  a  very  simple  dish  to  prepare  you  should  never 
omit  them. 

To  make  "Ushka"  prepare  first  a  fine  hash  of  half  a 
pound  of  boiled  pork  and  beef  with  one  small  onion,  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 


A 


r.-^.i 


6 


^U 


e 


Make  white  sauce  of  butter  and  flour  and  a  little  water, 
mix  this  with  your  hash,  let  it  stew  for  a  while,  then  add 
one  raw  egg  and  stir  it  madly. 

Now  mix  a  dough,  using  half  a  quart  of  flour,  one 
egg,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 

C114] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 

salt,  and  butter  of  the  size  of  a  walnut.     Knead  this  vig- 
orously for  half  an  hour,  or  until  it  is  quite  smooth. 


Roll  the  dough  out  into  a  sheet  %  of  an  inch  thick 
and  cut  it  into  2j4  inch  squares.     Put  on  each  dough 


square  a  teaspoonful  of  your  hash;  fold  them  diagonally 
along  the  line  BD  (Fig.  i)  and  press  the  edges  together, 
thus  joining  the  edge  AB  unto  the  edge  CB   and  AD 

[115] 


THE    STAG   COOK   BOOK 

unto  CD.    You  will  thus  obtain  the  right  angle  triangle 
ABD   (Fig.  2)   with  the  hash  inside.     Now  curve  this 


triangle  along  the  hypotenuse  BD  until  the  45   degree 
corner  D  meets  the  45  degree  corner  B.     Let  these  two 

[116] 


WRITTEN    FOR   MEN    BY   MEN 

corners  overlap  a  little  and  press  them  together  until  they 
stick.  The  shape  resulting  from  this  operation  resembles 
a  pig's  ear,  as  depicted  in  Figure  3. 

Now  put  these  pig^s  ears  or  Ushka  into  boiling  water; 
they  will  sink,  but  that  should  not  distress  you.  Leave 
them  there  until  they  come  to  the  surface.  Put  the  Ushka 
on  a  platter  and  pour  on  them  brown  butter  with  crumbs 
and  serve  them  as  a  side  dish  with  barshck. 

BURACHKI 

{Beets  a  la  Polonaise) 

Boil  eight  little  beets,  skin  them  and  chop  them  (not 
too  fine). 

Take  one  level  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour.  Brown  It  until  It  is  of  a  golden  hue. 
Stir  into  this  half  a  cupful  of  vinegar,  two  tablespoonsful 
of  sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  little  pepper. 
Bring  It  to  boiling,  then  mix  this  with  your  beets. 


[117] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


LVII 


Captain  Edward  A.  Salisbury 

SAUCE  FOR  SPAGHETTI 

This  sauce  for  spaghetti  is  a  real  Italian  mixture — 
and  wonderful.  This  is  how  I  learned  to  make  it  in 
Italy: 

Place  in  a  cup  or  bowl  a  half  teacup  full  of  dried 
mushrooms.  Pour  boiling  water  over  them  and  just  let 
them  stand  until  thoroughly  softened,  say — about  a  half 
hour. 

In  the  meantime  cover  the  bottom  of  your  frying  pan 
or  skillet  with  butter  or  olive  oil  (I  prefer  the  butter). 
Chop  one  big  onion  and  cook  slowly,  stirring  frequently. 
In  another  pan  or  kettle  place  two  cans  of  tomatoes.  Stew 
them  for  half  an  hour.  Then  make  three  small  cakes 
of  Hamburg  steak  or  chopped  beef  and  put  them  in  to  cook, 
with  the  onions.  Cook  thoroughly.  Add  at  the  same 
time  the  mushrooms  which  have  been  softened  and  chopped 
into  fine  particles. 

When  the  meat  is  cooked  through  mash  the  cakes  up 
with  a  fork — mixing  well  with  onions  and  mushrooms. 

Now  add  the  stewed  tomatoes  and,  in  doing  this,  press 
them  through  a  sieve  or  colander.    Stir  well. 

Place  on  back  of  stove  and  let  steep  for  one  hour  after 
adding  two  teaspoons  of  Eagle  Chili  Powder  (if  available) 
[ii8] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 

or  two  teaspoons  of  Lea  &  Perrins  sauce  with  five  dis- 
solved cubes  of  beef  or  chicken  bouillon. 


To  cook  the  spaghetti,  place  it,  unbroken,  in  well  salted 
boiling  water.  Put  it  in  end  first.  Boil  exactly  twenty- 
three  minutes.  Drain.  Hold  under  cold  water  tap  for 
a  second  or  two  and  drain  again.  Keep  warm  on  stove 
until  served.  This  cold  water  treatment  is  important. 
It  removes  all  gumminess  and  leaves  the  spaghetti  in 
perfect  condition.    Use  the  imported  spaghetti  if  available. 


EGGS  A  LA  SALISBURY 

Here  is  a  dish  that  is  easy  to  make  and  delicious. 

I  poach  the  desired  number  of  eggs  until  they  are  just 
solid.  Then  I  place  them  on  hot,  crisp  toast,  covering 
the  eggs  with  beautifully  done  bacon. 

Over  the  lot,  I  pour  hot  cream  until  the  eggs  are 
floating. 

Salt,  pepper  and  paprika  to  taste. 

Try  this  for  breakfast. 


FISH  A  LA  COMMODORE 

Say  you  are  cooking  a  six  pound  bass  or  some  similar 
fish — do  it  this  way  for  a  change: 

Rub  the  fish  well  with  salt  and  pepper.    Don't  be  afraid 

[119] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

to  rub.  Then  open  the  flesh  in  three  places  and  insert  in 
each  opening  a  clove  of  garlic. 

Next  slice  six  large  onions — six  small  green  peppers — 
and  six  large  tomatoes.  Now  take  your  Dutch  oven  or 
baking  pan  and  cover  the  bottom  with  Mazola  oil  or  olive 
oil — add  a  tablespoon  of  butter. 

When  this  is  hot  put  in  your  fish  and  cover  the  fish 
with  the  sliced  vegetables.    Salt  and  pepper  the  vegetables. 

Cook  until  the  vegetables  are  done  or  about  one  hour. 
Baste  frequently  to  avoid  scorching  the  vegetables.  To  the 
basting  add  two  teaspoons  of  Lea  &  Perrins  sauce  and  one- 
half  wine  glass  of  cooking  Sherry  when  half  done. 

When  serving  put  plenty  of  juice  and  sauce  on  each 
portion  and  make  them  come  back  for  more.  This  recipe 
can  be  used  for  many  kinds  of  large  fish. 


TO  COOK  TROUT 

Dip  trout  in  beaten  egg,  salt  and  pepper.  Roll  in  flour 
and  drop  into  very  hot  and  very  deep  Mazola  oil.  Re- 
move when  golden  brown.  The  trout  will  be  perfectly 
free  from  oil  and  every  bit  of  the  delicate  trout  flavor  will 
be  sealed  up  inside.     Try  it! 


VENISON  STEAK 

Venison  steak  is  fairly  poor  steak  at  best.     But  there 
is  one  way  to  cook  it  that  makes  you   forget  all  past 
[I20] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 

experiences  with  venison.  And  remember  this  is  really 
the  only  way  to  cook  it  that's  worth  a  damn. 

Take  the  venison  and  strip  out  all  of  the  white  sinews 
that  lay  between  the  muscles  or  lean  parts.  Strip  and  cut 
this  white  part  all  away.  Then  cut  your  venison  into 
small  strips  about  the  thickness  of  a  finger.  Now  you  are 
on  your  way.  Beat  up  an  egg  or  two  and  beat  in  a  bit 
of  salt  and  pepper.  Dip  your  strips  of  venison  in  the 
egg,  then  roll  them  in  flour.  Fry  in  butter  and  serve 
immediately. 

Every  hunter  or  guide  who  has  tried  this  sticks  to  it. 
It's  the  one  way  to  cook  venison. 


GOOSE 


There  is  only  one  way  for  a  man,  or  any  one  else,  to 
cook  a  goose.  Listen :  Never  pick  a  goose !  Just  pull  the 
skin  right  off — every  inch  of  it. 

Then  take  a  sharp  knife  and  follow  down  the  breast 
bone  on  both  sides.  Strip  the  breast  meat  clear  away 
from  both  sides.  Split  each  side  of  breast  into  two  thin 
steaks  (if  large  goose). 

Dip  these  steaks  in  beaten  egg,  salt  and  pepper.  Roll 
in  flour  and  fry  over  a  medium  fire.  That's  new  to  most 
folks  for  goose  and  it's  going  to  give  you  a  new  idea  about 
geese  when  you  try  it. 


[121] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


A  MAYONNAISE  AND  A  SALAD  DRESSING 

Take  yolks  of  two  eggs,  beat  well  and  add  slowly  (drop 
at  a  time)  olive  oil.  If  your  mixture  is  too  thick  lighten 
with  dash  of  lemon  or  vinegar. 

Now  into  a  half  pint  of  this  mayonnaise  put  three  table- 
spoons of  Chili  sauce;  three  tablespoons  of  Blue  Label 
Ketchup;  one  tablespoon  of  finely  chopped  pimento;  one 
tablespoon  of  finely  chopped  blanched  sweet  peppers. 

To  this  add  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt — pepper  and  Hun- 
garian paprika  to  taste. 

Then  add,  slowly,  Tarragon  vinegar  to  taste — say  about 
one  and  one-half  tablespoons. 

Serve  this  on  shrimps,  lobster,  lettuce  or  tomato  salad. 


DUCKS  AND  LARGE  FOWL 

Ducks,  such  as  Mallard,  Canvasback  and  Redhead, 
should  be  baked.  If  you  once  learn  how  to  bake  in  a 
Dutch  Oven  you  have  found  the  secret  of  successful  camp 
cookery. 

Take  a  Mallard,  for  instance.  Rub  it  with  salt  and 
pepper  (I  might  add  here:  pick  'em  dry  and  keep  'em 
dry — no  water  near  a  duck!),  then  put  an  onion  well 
up  in  the  body  cavity.  Fill  the  remaining  space  with 
celery,  wild  or  domestic. 

Get  your  oven,  or  Dutch  oven,  very  hot  before  the 
duck  goes  in.  Use  no  grease  and  no  water — just  your  dry 
pan  or  oven.  A  big  Mallard  will  cook  perfectly  in 
[122] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 

twenty  minutes.  Do  not  open  oven  or  take  lid  from 
Dutch  oven  after  starting  to  cook.  Serve  with  currant 
jelly. 


TEAL,  PARTRIDGE  AND  SMALL  FOWL 

Pick,  without  breaking  the  skin.  Cut  open  the  back 
and  break  out  flat  for  grilling  or  broiling.  Broil  bone 
side  to  the  fire  for  eight  minutes.  Souse  frequently  with 
melted  butter. 

Turn  and  broil,  flesh  side  to  the  fire,  for  four  minutes, 
using  more  butter.  Salt  and  pepper  thoroughly  at  time 
of  turning. 

Serve  with  currant  jelly. 


BEANS 


Get  a  deep  pot  for  beans.  A  heavy  iron  one  is  mighty 
good. 

Take  a  half  pound  of  salt  pork  and  cut  it  into  very 
small  pieces.     Fry  them  until  brown. 

Clean  your  beans  and  soak  them  for  at  least  two  hours 
— or  more.  Then  boil  the  beans  for  two  hours,  after 
which  add  the  pork  and  one  can  of  Mexican  Chili  Sauce. 
If  this  is  not  available,  make  your  own  by  frying  with 
the  salt  pork:  four  tomatoes,  three  onions,  two  bell  peppers 
and  one  red  pepper,  all  chopped. 

Now  you've  got  your  mixture  and  after  it's  all  together 

[123] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

put  in  six  beef  bouillon  cubes;  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
It's  a  good  idea  to  have  enough  water  in  the  pot  so  that 
when  the  beans  are  done  a  fine  soup  may  be  enjoyed  before 
the  beans  are  eaten.  Altogether  three  to  four  hours  of 
cooking  is  necessary  for  the  best  results  with  beans. 


ITALIAN  RICE 

First,  a  word  about  cooking  rice.  Buy  the  best  head 
rice.  Wash  it  thoroughly, — six  waters.  Drop  rice  slowly 
into  well  salted,  boiling  water,  and  boil  for  twenty-three 
minutes.  Drain  off  three-quarters  of  water  and  hold  rice 
under  cold  water  faucet  for  a  moment;  this  will  leave 
each  grain  firm  and  perfect.     Drain  thoroughly. 

Now  the  sauce.  Place  in  your  skillet  olive  oil  to  cover 
the  bottom;  also  tablespoon  of  butter.  Chop  one  large 
Spanish  onion.  Place  it  in  the  skillet  and  cook  slowly. 
Stir  often. 

After  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  a  piece  of  white  fish  (sole 
preferred)  about  the  size  of  your  four  fingers,  from  the 
palm  down — see?  When  the  onions  are  a  golden  color 
add  one  finely  chopped  clove  of  garlic.  When  fish  is 
thoroughly  cooked,  mash  it  up  with  a  fork  and  stir  well. 
Now  add  one  or  two  cans  of  tomatoes  which  have  been 
stewing  slowly  for  half  an  hour  or  more.  Add  them 
through  a  sieve  and  push  with  a  spoon  so  as  to  get  the 
thick  part  through.     Mix  well. 

Place  this  on  the  back  of  the  stove  where  it  will  simmer 

[124] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 

for  one  hour.    Add  a  pinch  of  saffron  or  thyme — salt  and 
pepper  to  taste. 

This  sauce  can  be  used  for  only  one  meal,  as  it  sours 
after  a  few  hours.  Sauce  should  be  applied  by  each  person 
as  desired  until  it's  all  gone. 


STEAK  SAUCE 

Have  a  large  platter  very,  very  hot — really  hot! 

Then  the  minute  the  steak  is  done,  put  it  on  the  platter 
and  work  fast.  Over  the  steak  sprinkle  a  very  little  bit 
of  dry  English  mustard.  Then  a  squeeze  or  two  of  lemon. 
Now  several  thin  slices  of  butter,  a  little  Worcestershire 
sauce,  salt,  pepper  and  paprika.  Rub  all  this  in  with  a 
broad  knife.  Turn  steak  and  repeat  the  operation.  Now 
tip  platter  on  edge  and  quickly  whip  the  sauce  into  a  froth, 
using  a  fork.  Serve  two  or  three  tablespoons  of  sauce 
with  each  piece  of  steak. 


[125] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


LVIII 


Thomas  H.  Ince 

CHICKEN  HALIBUT 
{Baked  and  with  Parmesan) 

Boll  some  slices  of  halibut  In  court  bouillon,  lay  In 
baking  dish  a  border  of  potato  croquette — either  hard  or 
shaped  with  hand.  Have  laj^er  of  bechamel  on  bottom  of 
dish — then  one  of  shredded  fish,  another  layer  of  bechamel 
and  one  more  of  fish,  finishing  with  the  bechamel ;  sprinkle 
with  bread  crumbs  and  grated  Parmesan.  Pour  over  a 
little  butter  and  brown  In  the  oven. 

With  Parmesan.  Prepare  same  and  make  solid  paste 
by  mixing  together  butter  and  Parmesan  cheese  with  pinch 
paprika.  Work  well  and  roll  out  one-eighth  Inch  thick. 
Cover  last  layer  bechamel  with  this  and  brown  In  hot 
oven. 

Bechamel  Sauce.  Prepare  roux  of  butter  and  flour,  let 
cook  few  minutes  while  stirring — not  allow  to  color — 
remove  to  slower  fire  and  leave  it  to  cook  15  minutes. 
Then  dilute  gradually  with  half  boiled  milk. 

ONION  SOUP  AU  GRATIN 

Cut  Into  small  y%  Inch  squares  two  medium  onions, 
fry  them  in  butter  and  add  two  dessert  spoons  flour  and 

[126] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 

moisten  with  two  quarts  of  broth,  adding  bunch  of  parsley 
garnished  with  chervil,  bay  leaf  and  clove  and  garlic. 
Season  with  a  little  salt,  pepper  and  some  meat  extract, 
boil  for  20  minutes — then  remove  the  bouquet — pour  the 
soup  over  very  thin  slices  of  bread  placed  in  a  metal 
soup  tureen  in  intervening  layers  of  bread  and  cheese — 
Parmesan — finishing  with  the  Parmesan  and  sprinkle  a 
little  over  the  top  of  the  soup.  Bake  in  hot  oven  or  boil 
ten  minutes  and  thicken  with  raw  yolks  of  two  eggs  diluted 
in  cream. 

RICE  A  LA  MANHATTAN 

Chop  two  onions — fry  in  butter,  add  a  pound  of  rice 
and  beat  together.  When  very  hot,  add  enough  broth  to 
triple  quantity — let  boil  and  cook  in  slack  oven  for  20 
minutes.  Add  when  done,  six  ounces  grated  Parmesan. 
Pour  %  of  this  into  casserole,  make  hole  in  center  and 
fill  with  shrimps  and  minced  mushrooms;  around  sides 
lay  fillet  of  sole,  pour  over  lean  Spanish  sauce — reduced 
with  essence  of  mushrooms — mix  well  and  cover  whole 
with  remainder  of  rice — put  in  hot  oven  for  fifteen  min- 
utes and  serve. 

Sauce: — i  quart  of  stock — melt  %  pound  of  butter — 
stir  in  same  amount  of  flour — making  clear  paste — add 
stock — brown  slowly. 


[127] 


THE    STAG    COOK    BOOK 


LIX 


George  Ade 

"SCOLLOPED"  OYSTERS 

If  I  must  make  a  decision,  I  think  I  shall  have  to 
vote  in  favor  of  escalloped  oysters.  Back  home  we  call 
them  "scolloped."  The  restaurant  and  hotel  article  is 
not  the  real  thing.  The  portions  are  stingy  and  the 
oysters  are  heated  just  enough  to  render  them  helpless 
and  they  lie  embedded  in  some  dry  packing,  evidently 
meant  to  be  an  article  of  food.  Escalloped  oysters,  as 
prepared  at  home,  came  in  a  deep  pan  which  had  been 
subjected  to  great  heat.  The  oysters  were  used  with  the 
greatest  prodigality.  They  were  cooked  in  cracker  crumbs 
or  corn  meal  and  they  were  cooked  until  the  delicious 
flavor  of  the  bivalve  had  permeated  all  parts  of  the  dish. 
Milk  or  cream  and  real  country  butter  had  been  used 
unsparingly,  so  that  the  whole  compound  was  moist  and 
the  seasoning  had  been  well  distributed,  and  the  whole 
result  was,  in  my  opinion,  a  triumph.  For  some  reason, 
the  real  "scolloped"  oysters  attain  their  perfection  only 
when  prepared  by  women  past  thirty  years  of  age. 

I  am  not  undertaking  to  give  the  recipe.  Probably  it 
is  something  secret — beyond  the  reach  or  comprehension  of 
any  man,  but  the  dish  itself  is  worthy  of  all  the  compli- 
mentary adjectives. 

[128] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


Editor's  Note  : — Here  is  the  way  to  do  it — first  butter  the 
bottom  and  sides  of  a  pan  (deep)  or  baking  dish,  then  cover 
the  bottom  with  those  Httle,  round,  old-fashioned  oyster 
crackers,  all  crisp  and  salty.  Next  place  a  layer  of  oysters, 
fresh  or  cove.  If  you  don't  know  what  cove  oysters  are  ask 
some  one  who  was  raised  in  the  Middle  West.  Now  a  layer 
of  crackers  crushed ;  then  more  oysters  and  so  on  until  the 
pan  is  full.  Season  each  layer  of  oysters  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Put  little  bits  of  butter  all  over  the  cracker  layers. 
Now  fill  the  pan  with  milk  and  cream  to  which  has  been 
added  a  bit  of  the  oyster  liquor.  Cover  the  top  well  with, 
crushed  crackers.  Put  a  cover  on  the  dish  or  pan  and  sHp  it 
into  the  oven.  Some  folks  add  a  teaspoonful  of  Worcester- 
shire sauce  to  the  milk  and  cream.  Bake  until  the  juices 
bubble  up.  Don't  let  too  much  of  the  moisture  bake  away. 
At  the  last  minute  take  the  cover  off  the  dish  and  brown  the 
top. 

The  richer  the  cream  and  butter  the  better  the  result. 

The  dish  is' even  better  than  Mr.  Ade  would  lead  you  to 
believe,  and  it  can  be  made  by  an  amateur  male  cook — that's 
why  Mr.  Ade's  contribution  is  printed  in  spite  of  the  rank 
heresy  to  which  he  professes. 


[129] 


THE   STAG   COOK   BOOK 


LX 


Lyman  Abbott 

DEEP  APPLE  PIE 

Df.  Lyman  Abbott's  favorite  dish  is  a  Deep  Apple  Pie, 
which  is  made  like  the  deep  fruit  tarts  so  plentiful  in 
England. 

Here  is  a  thoroughly  satisfactory  way  to  make  Dr. 
Abbott's  specialty:  Line  a  deep  pie  tin  with  a  rich  crust, 
fill  with  tart,  juicy  apples  sliced  very  thin.  Sprinkle 
sugar  and  a  little  cinnamon  over  them.  Scatter  bits  of 
butter  over  the  apples,  about  a  tablespoonful  in  all.  Also 
sprinkle  with  a  tablespoonful  of  water.  Use  four  or  five 
tablespoonsful  of  sugar.  Cover  with  top  crust  and  bake 
slowly  for  a  half,  or  perhaps  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

For  the  real  deep  dish  pie  put  the  apples,  sugar  and 
butter  (above  proportions)  in  the  individual  deep  dish 
and  cover  with  top  crust.  Bake  the  same.  The  spices 
may  be  varied  to  taste. 


[130] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


LXI 


Terry  Ramsay e 

LETTUCE   (a  la  Red  Creek) 

In  behalf  of  my  favorite  fodder,  the  tender  leafling 
lettuce  that's  newly  sprung  in  June,  I  am  pleased  to  pre- 
sent a  method  of  introducing  it  to  the  human  system  with 
a  maximum  effectiveness. 

Wilted  Lettuce: — It  is  said  that  this  dish  comes  to 
us  from  the  Hessians.  If  this  be  treason  let  us  make  the 
most  of  it. 

Having  obtained  the  lettuce,  young  and  tender  and 
fresh  from  the  patch,  plucked  before  it  is  yet  headstrong, 
toss  it  into  a  bucket  of  cold  water  to  crisp  it. 

Repairing  to  the  kitchen,  place  on  the  hot  stove  a 
skillet  and  heave  into  it  a  good  sized  cupful  of  chopped 
bacon.  Let  it  fry  thoroughly.  Add  a  dessert  spoonful 
of  salt,  a  pinch  of  mustard,  a  couple  of  tablespoonsful 
of  granulated  sugar  and  good  cider  vinegar  in  quantity 
slightly  in  excess  of  the  bacon  fat.  Let  it  simmer  smartly 
until  well  blended.  Meanwhile  lay  out  the  lettuce  in 
noble  heaps  on  the  plates  on  which  it  is  to  be  served. 
Chop  up  a  handful  of  green  onions,  a  bit  of  the  tops  will 
do  no  harm,  and  at  the  last  moment  stir  them  into  the 
concoction   in   the  skillet. 

While  the  whole  is  sizzling  and  boiling  vigorously,  pour 

[131] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

the  mixture  over  the  lettuce,  using  a  spoon  to  apportion 
the  nifty  bits  of  bacon  about,  and  serve  forthwith. 

By  this  method  one  can  take  aboard  amazing  quantities 
of  lettuce,  which  is  most  desirable  in  view  of  the  fact 
that  this  gentle  herb  contributes  strongly  to  the  summ^et 
languor  when  taken  in  adequate  quantities. 


[132] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


LXII 


jR.  L.  (Rube)  Goldberg 

HASH 

All  joking  aside,  my  favorite  dish  is  hash. 

I  have  never  actually  been  in  the  kitchen  to  see  hash 
pass  through  the  various  stages  of  its  epicurean  develop- 
ment, but  I  imagine  hash  is  manufactured  something  like 
this: 

First  the  father  must  eat  a  big  lunch,  the  mother  must 
fill  herself  up  on  cake  in  the  afternoon  and  the  children 
must  have  spoiled  stomachs.  This  condition  of  affairs 
ruins  the  evening  meal  completely  and  there  is  plenty  of 
meat  left  over  for  hash  the  next  day. 

The  cook  takes  the  beef  or  veal  or  whatever  it  is  and 
throws  it  into  the  electric  fan.  The  flying  bits  of  meat 
are  caught  on  ping  pong  rackets  by  experts  and  knocked 
back  into  a  pot  that  contains  a  large  quantity  of  mashed 
potatoes.  Then  the  fire  is  lighted  and  the  cook  can  go 
out  to  an  afternoon  movie. 

The  beauty  of  hash  is  that,  no  matter  how  it  tastes, 
you  think  it  is  all  right.  There  is  no  standard  flavor 
for  hash.  Hash  is  fundamentally  accidental,  so  it  has  no 
traditions  to  live  up  to. 


[133] 


THE   STAG   COOK   BOOK 


LXIII 


Charming  Pollock 


CORN  BREAD 

When  I  was  young  and  sometimes  went  camping  my 
favorite  dish  was  corn  bread.  In  those  days,  we  always 
began  proceedings  by  building  a  mud  oven.  Now  I  believe 
portable  ovens  are  convenient  and  cheap.  In  any  event, 
following  is  my  recipe : 

2  cups  of  flour 

3  cups  of  cornmeal 

4  heaping  teaspoonsful  of  baking  powder 
2  eggs  well  beaten 

I  teaspoonful  of  salt 

I  tablespoonful  of  granulated  sugar 

1  generous  pint  of  milk 

2  tablespoonsful  of  melted  crisco  or  lard 

Do  not  scald  the  cornmeal. 

Mix  the  meal  with  flour,  baking  powder,  salt  and  sugar, 
beat  the  eggs  until  they  are  light,  add  the  milk  and  eggs 
to  the  other  ingredients.  Beat  the  whole  until  it  is  smooth 
and  light — about  one  minute.  Finally  adding  the  melted 
crisco  or  lard;  pack  into  shallow,  greased  pan  and  bake 
in  a  hot  oven  for  twenty-five  minutes. 


[134] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


LXIV 


Hussein  Kahn  Alai 

(Minister  to  the  United  States  from  Persia) 

CHIRIN  POLOW 

Necessary  materials:  One  pound  of  rice  (Carolina  rice 
is  most  suitable)  ;  one  spring  chicken;  the  peel  of  four 
oranges ;  four  ounces  of  sugar ;  half  a  pound  of  salt ;  two 
grams  of  Spanish  saffron;  two  ounces  of  almonds;  half 
a  pound  of  butter. 

Method  of  cooking  the  rice:  If  the  dish  is  required 
for  a  luncheon  at  one  o'clock,  it  will  be  necessary,  the 
night  before,  to  rinse  the  rice  three  times  in  water,  rub- 
bing it  each  time  with  the  palms  of  the  hands.  Change 
the  water  each  time. 

Next  soak  the  rice  in  tepid  water,  letting  the  water 
stand  three  inches  over  the  rice.  Pour  the  half  pound  of 
salt  on  the  rice  and  let  it  stand  until  ii  a.  m.  of  the 
next  day. 

Into  a  two  gallon  caldron  pour  six  quarts  of  water  and 
let  it  boil.  As  soon  as  it  boils  pour  out  slowly  and  with 
care  the  water  in  which  the  rice  has  been  soaking  since 
the  night  before.  Empty  the  rice  into  the  boiling  water. 
Cover  the  caldron  and  increase  the  heat.  As  soon  as  the 
caldron  containing  the  rice  begins  to  boil  remove  the  cover 
and  stir  the  rice  gently  with  a  flat  spoon.     Then  replace 

[135] 


THE   STAG   COOK   BOOK 

the  lid  and  let  the  contents  of  the  caldron  boil  again. 
Repeat  the  stirring  process  three  times.  Next  drain  the 
rice  in  a  sieve,  shaking  it  to  remove  all  adherents  of  salt 
and  starch.  Now  melt  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter 
in  a  large  cup  of  water.  Pour  half  of  the  melted  butter 
into  a  one-gallon  caldron  and  gently  empty  the  rice  into 
the  caldron  in  such  a  way  that  it  will  spread  uniformly 
without  sticking  together  in  rice  balls.  Place  the  caldron 
in  a  hot  oven.  Close  the  oven  and  after  five  or  six  minutes 
see  if  the  caldron  is  hot;  if  it  is,  bring  it  out  gently 
and  pour  the  remainder  of  the  melted  butter  over  the 
rice  and  replace  in  the  oven.  Now  reduce  the  heat  until 
the  caldron  gives  a  hollow  sound  when  rapped  with  the 
fingers ;  this  will  indicate  that  the  rice  is  sufficiently  cooked. 

Preparation  of  the  almonds:  Boil  the  almonds  for  a 
few  minutes  until  the  skins  fall  off  and  the  almonds  be- 
come white.  Cut  the  almonds  into  four  quarters  perpen- 
dicularly. 

Preparation  of  the  orange  peel :  Remove  the  white  part 
of  the  peel  to  such  an  extent  that  both  sides  of  the  peel 
are  of  the  same  color.  When  this  has  been  done  cut  the 
peel  into  long  thin  strings.  These  should  be  boiled  in 
two  waters  so  as  to  remove  all  bitterness.    Then  strain. 

Combining  the  almonds  and  the  orange  peel :  Mix  the 
almonds  and  the  orange  peel  and  boil  them  in  a  syrup 
of  sugar  for  ten  minutes.  Strain  and  keep  in  a  warm 
place  until  needed. 

Cooking  the  chicken:  Begin  boiling  the  chicken  very 
slowly  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning.     Boil  to  such  a 

[136] 


WRITTEN   FOR   MEN    BY   MEN 

point  that  the  skin  and  bones  detach  themselves  from  the 
flesh. 

Preparation  of  the  saffron:  Warm  the  saffron  to  re- 
move all  dampness  and  pound  it  to  a  powder  in  a  mortar ; 
after  which  dissolve  it  in  three  tablespoonsful  of  cold 
water. 

Dishing  the  Polow:  One  half  of  the  rice  should  be 
taken  from  the  caldron  and  mixed  in  a  bowl  with  the 
orange  peel  and  almonds.  Over  this  sprinkle  three  table- 
spoonsful  of  saffron  water  to  color  well.  Now  pour  over 
it  about  two  tablespoonsful  of  melted  butter. 

Next  remove  the  remainder  of  the  rice  from  the  caldron 
and  dish  It  up  ready  for  the  table.  Place  the  chicken 
from  which  the  skin  and  bones  have  been  removed  on 
top  of  the  rice.  Crown  the  whole  with  the  rice,  which 
has  already  been  mixed  with  the  almonds  and  orange 
peel  and  colored  with  the  saffron. 

This  will  make  a  delightful  and  pleasantly  flavored  dish 
— Chirin  Polow,  which  means  "sweet  Polow." 


[137] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


LXV 


TVilliam  J.  Bryan 

FRENCH-FRIED  ONIONS 

Onions  are  on  my  permitted  list  of  foods  and  they  are 
prepared  for  the  table  in  many  ways.  The  best  way  that 
I  know  of  has  been  given  the  name  of  French-fried 
onions.  I  first  ate  onions  in  this  form  at  the  famous 
Grove  Park  Inn,  Asheville,  North  Carolina,  and  have 
since  introduced  the  dish  on  dining  cars  and  into  many 
private  homes. 

Take  a  Bermuda  onion — any  other  large  onion  would 
do — cut  it  into  slices  through  the  rings  so  that  each 
slice  will  be  made  up  of  a  large  number  of  whole  rings. 
Then  break  the  slices  up  into  separate  rings,  drop  these 
into  a  thin  batter  and  fry  them  as  you  fry  French-fried 
potatoes.  Each  ring  looks  like  a  little  doughnut.  I  find 
that  the  dish  is  universally  praised. 

May  I  add  a  word  in  regard  to  radishes,  of  which 
I  am  very  fond.  The  long  White  Icicle  radish  is,  in 
my  judgment,  the  best  variety  and  I  have  found  that  butter 
added  to  the  salt  makes  the  radish  a  little  more  palatable. 


[138] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


LXVI 


W^ill  Irwin 


HAM  AND  EGGS 

Take  a  frying  pan  and  some  ham.  Cook  the  ham 
in  its  own  fat  in  the  frying  pan — cook  until  the  ham  is 
well  dappled  with  golden  brown,  or  until  it  is  cooked 
enough.  Then  break  some  eggs.  Take  out  the  ham  and 
put  it  on  a  hot  platter,  then  put  in  the  eggs.  Baste  them 
a  bit  with  the  hot  ham  fat.  Put  a  cover  on  the  pan  and 
let  the  eggs  cook  in  the  hot  pan  with  no  fire.  A  minute  or 
tu'o  will  do — then  serve  the  eggs  with  the  ham  and — oh, 
boy! 

For  the  very  best  results  use  the  best  harn  you  can  get 
and  plenty  of  day  old  eggs. 


[139I 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


LXVII 

Douglas  Fairbanks 

BREAD  TART 

I  cup  fresh  bread  crumbs 

I  cup  sugar 

1  cup  chopped  nut  meats 
\Y2  teaspoons  baking  powder 
5  eggs 

2  tablespoons  grape  juice 
I  lemon 

Filling 

I  egg 

Yi  cup  chopped  walnut  meats 

Yi  cup  sugar 

3^  cup  lemon 

Soak  bread  crumbs  with  grape  juice  and  the  strained 
lemon  juice.  Beat  egg  yolks  and  sugar  together  until 
light;  then  add  nut  meats,  baking  powder,  bread  crumbs 
and  the  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs.  Divide  into  buttered 
and  floured  layer  tins  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
twenty  minutes.  Put  together  with  filling.  Beat  up  t.^g^ 
add  sugar,  lemon  juice  and  walnuts.  This  tart  may  be 
covered  with  frosting  if  liked. 


[140] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


LXVIII 

Julian  Street 

SOLE  A  LA  MARGUERY  AND  DUCK 
WITH  ORANGES 

I  have  two  favorite  dishes:  both  being  examples  of  the 
French  cuisine  at  its  highest. 

One  is  "Sole  a  la  Marguerj^"  (w^hlch  can  be  made  with 
flounder,  also)  and  was  originated  by  old  Monsieur 
Marguery  at  his  famous  restaurant  in  Paris.  It  has  a 
sauce  which  has  a  wine  base  and  which  contains  shrimps 
and  small  oysters. 

Sole  a  la  Marguery 

Lay  your  sole  in  a  buttered  platter,  add  about  a  glassful 
of  white  wine,  season  and  poach  : 

I.  E.  Let  boil  for  about  fifteen  minutes  and  then  take 
the  juice  out,  mix  with  it  a  yolk  of  a  raw  egg,  about  two 
ounces  of  sweet  butter.  Beat  slowly  so  as  to  get  it  thick, 
something  like  a  hoUandaise ;  add  a  few  shrimps,  oysters, 
mussels,  and  a  few  heads  of  mushrooms,  cook  the  sole  with 
It,  glaze  in  a  salamande  two  or  three  minutes  and  serve. 

Another  Is  duck  cooked  with  oranges.  I  know  how 
to  ask  for  it  at  the  St.  Regis  and  the  Brevoort,  but  am 
not  sure  of  the  spelling.  It  sounds  like  Duck  "Bigarade." 
They  do  It  well  at  the  Brevoort.     If  potatoes  are  served 

[141] 


THE   STAG   COOK   BOOK 

with  either  of  these  dishes  they  should  be  potatoes  gau- 
frettes — on  a  separate  plate. 

Duck  Bigarade 

To  Roast:  Select  a  young  and  very  tender  duck,  pre- 
pare and  truss  it  for  roasting.  It  should  be  roasted  on 
the  spit  or  in  the  oven  for  fifteen  to  twenty-five  minutes, 
according  to  its  size  and  the  heat  of  the  fire. 

A  domestic  duck  ought  to  be  served  quite  rare,  and 
should  be  killed  without  bleeding.  Dish  it  after  untruss- 
ing  and  pour  over  it  a  little  of  its  gravy. 

Sauce  Bigarade :  Peel  an  orange  without  touching  the 
white  parts,  cut  the  peel  up  into  small,  fine  julienne. 
Plunge  it  into  boiling  water,  and  cook  until  it  is  tender. 
Drain  and  enclose  it  in  a  covered  saucepan  with  four  gills 
of  espagnole  or  brown  sauce.  Just  when  ready  to  serve 
finish  the  sauce  with  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper,  meat  glaze, 
the  orange  juice  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  strain  through 
a  tamis,  adding  two  ounces  of  fine  butter. 


[142] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


LXIX 


S.  S.  McClure 


OMELETTE— AND  PIE 

I  can  give  you  a  tip  on  how  to  prepare,  in  the  very 
best  fashion,  two  articles  of  food. 

The  first  is  omelette:  The  frying  pan  should  be  held 
at  a  slant,  with  the  lower  part  immediately  over  a  mod- 
erate heat,  and  continually  the  volume  of  eggs  that  be- 
comes cooked  should  be  scraped  back  and  the  liquid  part 
allowed  to  flow  over  the  pan  thus  emptied,  and  then  when 
the  omelette  is,  I  should  say,  about  two-thirds  cooked,  it 
should  be  removed  from  the  fire  and  dished. 

It  is  impossible  to  make  an  omelette  of  the  utmost 
symmetry  and  firmness  and  have  it  good  at  the  same  time. 
If  it  is  stiff  enough  to  maintain  a  certain  symmetry,  then 
it  is  too  stiff  to  be  good.  I  have  made  an  omelette  in 
this  fashion  containing  as  many  as  eighteen  eggs.  I 
learned  how  to  make  omelette  from  Madame  Poulard 
of  Mont  St.  Michel  in  Normandy,  one  of  the  most  famous 
omelette  makers  in  Europe. 

I  am  also  particularly  successful  in  making  pies.  On 
one  occasion  I  made  pies  for  one  hundred  and  eighty-five 
officers  on  the  troop-ship  Leviathan.  To  make  pies,  one 
must  have  the  best  quality  of  butter  and  the  best  quality 
of  flour.     Use  a  pound  of  butter  to  every  two  pounds 

[143] 


THE    STAG    COOK    BOOK 

of  flour.  The  butter  must  be  rather  firm  and  must  be 
mixed  with  the  flour  with  your  hands.  Then  when  you 
have  a  sort  of  a  mass  of  dough  on  the  table,  make  a 
little  hollow  in  the  middle,  pour  in  a  little  cold  water, 
mix  it  to  such  a  consistency  that  it  can  be  made  into  a 
roll  perhaps  as  thick  as  your  wrist.  It  will  require  about 
two  inches  to  be  rolled  out  thin  for  the  crusts.  Dust 
a  little  flour  in  the  dish  that  it  is  to  be  baked  in  and 
put  into  the  oven  at  such  a  temperature  as  would  require 
one  half  an  hour  to  bake.  There's  a  considerable  secret 
in  the  choice  of  fruits.  The  top  crust  should  have  little 
apertures  in  it  so  as  to  permit  the  steam  to  escape.  It 
is  easier  to  make  perfect  pies  than  any  other  dish. 


[144] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


LXX 


Basil  King 

LOBSTER  A  LA  KING 

Boil  medium  sized  lobsters.  Let  grow  cold  and  remove 
meat.  Put  large  piece  of  butter  and  one  and  one-half 
tablespoons  of  flour  into  double  boiler.  Stir  until  creamy. 
Add  one  pint  of  milk  and  cook  about  five  minutes.  Add 
lobster  cut  in  small  pieces  and  cook  about  fifteen  minutes. 
Just  before  serving  add  three  tablespoons  cream  and  one- 
half  tumbler  sherry  or  brandy. 

ISfote:  Unless  brandy  or  sherry  can  be  added  it  Is  use- 
less to  attempt  this  dish. 


[145] 


THE   STAG    COOK   BOOK 


LXXI 


John  A.  Moroso 


SPAGHETTI-FOR-THE-GANG 

Many  a  time  as  a  very  small  boy  I  watched  my  distin- 
guished Piedmontese  grandfather  grandly  direct  the  cook. 
This  is  the  way  our  spaghetti  sauce  was  prepared.  Buy 
about  three  or  four  pounds  of  solid  meat  from  the  round, 
cut  thick.  Ask  for  the  "eye  of  the  beef."  It  is  inex- 
pensive. Cut  little  pockets  in  it  and  insert  bits  of  fat 
bacon  in  some.  In  others  stuff  sage,  thyme,  parsley  and 
bay  leaf  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Sometimes 
I  spread  thinly  with  mustard,  the  prepared  sort;  covering 
the  top.  A  clove  of  garlic  tucked  in  with  the  seasoning 
goes  well,  if  you  have  Wop  ancestry.  Pale  people  use 
onions.     But  surely  one  or  the  other. 

Grease  well  a  deep  iron  skillet  with  iron  top,  the  pot- 
roast  utensil.  When  the  gravy  begins  to  drip  add  a  little 
water,  but  not  much.  The  steam  makes  the  meat  tender 
and  brings  out  all  the  flavors  in  the  little  pockets.  Baste 
from  time  to  time  just  to  get  the  aroma  of  the  simmering 
mess  and  sharpen  your  appetite.  Take  a  little  wire  and 
jab  it  in  the  roast  after  about  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes 
and  you'll  find  out  whether  it  is  tender  and  juicy  enough. 

Put  the  big  pot  on  and  get  your  water  boiling  fast. 
Add  a  good  sized  kitchen  spoon  of  salt.     Better  salt  the 

[146] 


WRITTEN    FOR   MEN    BY   MEN 

water  to  taste.  Throw  In  a  pound  of  Italian  made 
spaghetti  .  .  .  the  Farina  spaghetti.  It  requires  a  certain 
kind  of  wheat  to  make  good  macaroni.  Boil  for  twenty 
minutes.     Drain  off  water. 

To  the  rich  gravy  you  will  find  the  roast  swimming 
in  add  a  small  can  of  tomato  paste,  stirring  in  slowly. 
As  this  is  poured  over  the  spaghetti  add  grated  Roman 
cheese.  You  will  get  it  all  properly  dressed  by  using  tw^o 
forks,  lifting  and  dropping  the  strands.  Serve  piping  hot 
with  an  automatic  revolver  at  hand  so  that  the  man  who 
cuts  his  can  be  disposed  of  promptly.  Some  twine  the 
spaghetti  about  the  fork.  Others  just  lead  a  mass  of  it 
to  the  face  and  bite  off  what  they  want  at  that  particular 
mastication. 

A  good  salad  and  Italian  bread,  to  be  secured  at  any 
small  dealer's  where  the  boss  sings  Santa  Lucia  in  a  thin 
high  voice  as  he  slices  the  salami,  goes  well  with  the  roast. 
This  layout  will  last  an  old  bachelor  or  a  deserted  husband 
two  or  three  days.  It's  grand  when  it's  warmed  up  in  a 
boiler. 


[147] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


LXXU 

F.  X.  Leyendecker 

VEAU  SAUTE  MARENGO 

During  my  Paris  days  (school  days)  I  became  very 
fond  of  two  dishes  and  they  still  remain  my  favorites: 

No.  I — Veau  Saute  Marengo — nothing  epicurean  about 
this,  but  real  tasty;  a  ragout  of  veal  w^hich  must  be 
served  in  a  brown  pot.  It  is  flavored  with  tiny  onions 
and  mushrooms,  olives  and  a  delicious  sauce.  I  have  never 
found  it  quite  so  well  prepared  as  in  Paris. 


Fry  some  small  pieces  of  veal  in  oil,  add  one  chopped 
onion,  one  head  of  crushed  garlic  and  when  it  is  well 
brown  strain  it,  add  one  glass  of  white  wine  and  reduce. 
Moisten  it  with  one  quart  of  brown  sauce.  Add  two 
pounds  fresh  tomatoes  and  some  fine  herbs.  Cook  slowly 
for  an  hour  and  a  half. 

Put  the  meat  in  another  pan,  add  few  small  onions 
cooked  in  butter,  some  small  mushrooms  already  cooked. 

Dress  and  serve  on  toast  fried  in  butter. 


No.  2 — ^Vol  au  Vent  Financiere — a  pastry  form  filled 
with  mushrooms,  cubes  of  chicken,  something  else,  and  a 
good  sauce.  This  also  seems  not  quite  the  same  outside 
of  Paris. 

[148] 


WRITTEN    FOR   MEN    BY   MEN 


VOL  AU  VENT  FINANCIERE 

Put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  four  ounces 
of  cooked  sweetbread  cut  in  three-sixteenth  inch  squares, 
small  bits  of  the  white  of  chicken,  some  truffles,  olives, 
mushrooms,  kidney  and  cock's  combs. 

Moisten  with  one  pint  of  Madeira  sauce,  let  boil  and 
despumate;  when  the  sauce  is  done  strain  it  through  a 
tamis,  fill  your  pastry  crust  and  serve. 


Editor's  Note: — The  recipes  are  French,  and  properly  pre- 
pared and  served,  they  will  prove  the  real  thing  in  Keokuk 
as  well  as  in  the  Quartier  Latin. 

[149] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


LXXIII 


Eddie  Cantor 


BOILED  BEEF  AND  HORSERADISH  SAUCE 

I  love  boiled  beef  and  horseradish  sauce — I  love  it 
better  than  any  other  dish  in  the  w^orld! 

Anybody  knovrs  haw  to  boil  beef.  And  a  good  horse- 
radish sauce  is  made  in  this  fashion. 

Melt  a  good  sized  lump  of  the  best  butter — almost  as 
big  as  an  egg,  is  good  sized.  Add  to  this,  first  removing 
from  the  fire,  about  two  tablespoonsful  of  flour.  Stir  the 
flour  and  butter  together  until  the  mixture  is  absolutely 
smooth,  and  then  add  cold  milk — a  trifle  more  than  a  half 
pint,  a  shade  less  than  a  pint.  Put  over  a  slow^  fire  in  a 
sauce  pan  or,  for  safety's  sake,  a  double-boiler.  Cook 
slowly  until  the  sauce  is  of  the  desired  consistency,  and 
then  add  your  horseradish.  If  you  like  the  sauce  very 
hot  add  a  lot  of  horseradish.  If  you  like  it  moderate,  a 
little  horseradish.  The  best  way  is  to  begin  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  and  keep  adding  and  tasting  until  it's  O.  K. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  of  course.  And,  if  you  like  it, 
a  dash  of  celery  salt. 


[150] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


LXXIV 

Frazier  Hunt 

STUFFED  CELERY 

I  like  food.  I  like  almost  any  kind  of  food.  I've 
eaten  all  varieties — in  great  cities  and  in  out  of  the  way- 
corners  of  the  world.  And  I've  never  found  anything 
that  I  couldn't  eat,  if  I  were  hungry  enough ! 

But  best  of  all  I  think  that  I  like  stuffed  celery.  It's 
easy  to  fix,  and  it's  slightly  out  of  the  ordinary,  and  it's 
possible  to  consume  a  lot  of  it  without  being  looked  down 
upon  by  those  who  are  dining  with  you.  Because  every- 
body eats  a  lot  of  stufed  celery. 

To  a  half  pound  of  Roquefort  cheese  add  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  butter.  Cream  them  together  until  they  are 
as  smooth  as  it  is  possible  to  make  any  mixture  contain- 
ing Roquefort  cheese.  Then  add  a  dessertspoonful — or  a 
tablespoonful,  if  you  like — of  Worcestershire  sauce.  A 
little  salt,  and  some  paprika,  enough  to  slightly  color  the 
mixture.    And  then — 

Take  stalks  of  celery — ^very  white  and  crisp  and  fresh. 
And  stuff  the  hollow  side,  until  it  bulges,  with  the 
Roquefort  mixture.  And  serve  with  your  dinner,  or 
after  dinner,  or  with  the  salad,  or  all  alone.  It  doesn't 
matter  when  or  where  you  place  it  on  the  menu,  for  it's 
apt  to  be  the  dominant  note ! 

[151] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


LXXV 


TVilliam  Slavins  McNutt 


ORANGE  COMPOTE 

Orange  Compote  is  my  favorite  dish.  After  my  fourth 
I  begin  to  forget  that  I'm  a  human  being.  After  my 
sixth  I  can  feel  myself  drifting  into  a  blissfully  comatose 
state — with  only  strength  enough  left  to  call  for  a  seventh. 

Orange  Compote,  at  its  best,  may  be  obtained  in  any 
small  Turkish  or  Armenian  restaurant  where  the  coffee 
is  good  and  the  dishes  aren't  too  offensively  clean.  When 
made  at  home  it  is  never  quite  the  same — I  don't  know 
why.  This,  however,  is  the  best  working  substitute  that 
I  am  able  to  concoct. 

Take  as  many  oranges  as  your  system  is  capable  of 
absorbing,  and  peel  them,  removing  all  of  the  thin  white 
inside  skin,  and  all  of  the  film-like  tissue  that  divides  an 
orange  into  sections.  I  forgot  to  mention  that  the  orange 
should  be  large,  luscious,  juicy  and  free  of  seeds.  Place 
the  oranges  in  individual  serving  dishes  and  pour  over  them 
this  sauce,  while  hot: 

For  about  six  oranges  you  will  need  one  middle-sized 
jar  of  orange  marmalade  and  one  small  can  of  Hawaiian 
pineapple.  Put  the  marmalade,  the  pineapple — cut  into 
small  cubes — and  the  pineapple  juice  into  a  double  boiler 
and  cook,  briskly,  until  the  liquid  begins  to  thicken.    Then 

[152] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 

pour  it  over  the  uncooked  oranges  and  allow  them — each 
in  its  individual  dish — to  stand  in  the  ice  box  until 
dessert  time.  Just  before  serving,  sprinkle  with  a  few 
pine  nuts,  or  salted  almonds.     Pine  nuts  are  best. 


[153] 


THE   STAG   COOK   BOOK 


LXXVI 

Stephen  Vincent  Benet 

ZITELLFS  MACARONI  STEW 

Take  one-half  pound  of  real  Italian  macaroni,  boil  it  \v\. 
plenty  of  water,  slightly  salted,  till  soft,  say,  about  twenty 
minutes;  take  one  quart  of  tomatoes,  one-half  pint  of 
water  and  two  ounces  of  fat  bacon  cut  into  small  pieces. 
Now  one  onion  and  a  small  bunch  of  parsley;  boil  all 
these  together  (apart  from  the  macaroni)  for  half  an 
hour,  then  pass  the  mixture  through  a  colander;  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste. 

Put  it  on  the  fire  again  and  let  it  boil  for  five  min- 
utes. Let  the  macaroni  and  the  sauce  both  be  very  hot. 
In  a  tureen  place  a  layer  of  the  macaroni  covered  with 
grated  cheese;  then  cover  with  a  ladleful  of  the  sauce 
and  repeat  the  layers  until  the  entire  amount  is  served.  It 
should  be  dished  in  deep  soup  plates  for  individual 
servings. 


[154] 


WRITTEN    FOR   MEN    BY   MEN 


LXXVII 

James  R.  Quirk 

TOMATO  WIGGLE 

To  one  pound  of  diced  American  cheese,  add  one  can 
of  Campbell's  Tomato  Soup.  Heat  over  a  slow  fire  until 
a  thick,  smooth  mass  has  been  obtained.    And  then — 

Add  one  beaten  egg,  and  follow  it  quickly  with  a  cup 
of  cream  or  very  rich  milk.  Stir  in  a  dessertspoonful  of 
Worcestershire  Sauce,  and  enough  salt  to  give  the  proper 
kick. 

Serve  on  soda  crackers  that  have  been  heated — large 
soda  crackers. 

The  name?    That's  just  to  make  it  difficult. 


[ISS] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK  \ 


LXXVIII 


Charles  TV.  Eliot 


A  FAVORITE  MENU 

I  can  hardly  say  that  I  have  a  "favorite  dish."  But 
a  favorite  menu  for  luncheon  or  dinner  is  clam  soup, 
corned  beef  hash,  and  baked  Indian  pudding. 

Note. — If  you  w^ant  to  try  Dr.  Eliot's  menu  why  not 
use  Rex  Beach's  clam  specialty? 

Then  for  the  corned  beef  hash  get  plenty  of  fine  lean 
corned  beef  and  cut  it  into  one-eighth  inch  bits. 

Chop  one  small  onion  into  very  fine  particles.  Take 
cold  boiled  potatoes  (fairly  firm)  and  cut  or  chop. 

Prepare  some  drawn  butter  and  add  a  few  drops  of 
Worcestershire  sauce,  salt  and  pepper.  Now  mix  the  meat, 
potatoes,  onion  and  drawn  butter.  Mold  and  pat  into 
small,  flat,  elliptical  loaves  (individual  servings)  and  fry 
in  a  hot,  lightly  buttered  pan.  Turn  frequently  until 
well  browned  on  both  sides.  Serve  sprinkled  with  minced 
parsley. 

Top  off  with  this  baked  India-n  pudding: 

You  must  have  i  quart  of  milk,  3  eggs,  J^  cup  of 
the  finest  seeded  raisins,  i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  2  heaping 
tablespoonsful  of  corn  meal,  4  heaping  tablespoonsful  of 
sugar,  I  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter. 

[156] 


WRITTEN    FOR   MEN    BY    MEN 

Boil  the  milk  in  a  double  boiler  and  sprinkle  in  the 
corn  meal,  stirring  all  the  time.     Cook  twelve  minutes. 

Beat  the  eggs,  adding  the  salt,  sugar  and  a  half  tea- 
spoonful  of  ground  ginger.  Add  this  mixture  with  the 
butter  to  milk  and  meal,  then  add  the  raisins  and  stir 
until  perfectly  mixed.  Remove  from  the  double  boiler 
and  bake  for  one  hour. 

You  will  agree  with  Dr.  Eliot. 


[157] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


LXXIX 

H.  S.   Gumming 

(Surgeon  General,  U.S.P.H.S.) 

VIRGINIA  EGG  BREAD 

I  am  particularly  fond  of  this  dish — it  is,  I  think,  my 
favorite,  and  I  pass  along  the  recipe  with  the  hope  that 
others  will  find  it  as  satisfying  and  delicious  as  do  those 
who  already  list  it  among  their  favorites. 

I  cup  water  ground  com  meal   (white) 

'2.Y2  cups  boiling  water 

I  cup  sweet  milk 

3  or  4  eggs 

1  teaspoonful  salt 

2  tablespoonsful  butter 
2  teaspoonsful  sugar 

Stir  boiling  water  into  the  sifted  meal ;  add  sweet  milk ; 
when  cool  break  eggs  into  the  mixture  and  beat  thor- 
oughly ;  add  salt,  sugar  and  butter  melted.  Bake  in  well 
buttered  baking  dish  in  hot  oven. 


[158] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


LXXX 

Joseph  Santley 

COCOA  CREAM  CAKE 

I  will  admit  that  it  sounds  a  good  deal  like  "pink 
sponge  cake"  to  announce  a  preference  for  anything  so 
epicureanly  flippant  as  cocoa  cream  cake.  But  it  is  the 
one  dish  that  I  prefer  above  any  other,  and  in  justice  to 
truth  and  accuracy,  I  repeat — my  favorite  is  cocoa  cream 
cake!  And  my  own  dear  mother  will  have  to  stand  the 
responsibility  for  whatever  shame  comes  to  me  by  openly 
declaring  it.  You  see,  she  makes  it.  And  it  was  from 
her  I  learned  the  secret  of  its  concoction. 

Here  is  the  recipe: 

Four  eggs,  one  cup  of  sugar,  one  cup  of  cocoa,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder. 
Cream  yolks  of  eggs  and  sugar  well;  add  the  vanilla. 
Sift  the  cocoa  and  baking  powder  well,  and  add  to  the 
eggs  and  sugar.  Last  of  all  stir  in  the  whites  of  the  eggs, 
beaten.  Bake  in  two  layers,  for  about  ten  minutes. 
When  cold  whip  a  pint  of  thick  cream  with  a  teaspoonful 
of  vanilla  and  sugar  to  taste — placing  half  between  the 
layers  and  half  on  top. 

Oh,  boy! 


[159] 


THE    STAG    COOK    BOOK 


LXXXI 

A.  Hamilton   Gibbs 

SQUAB  EN  CASSEROLE 

In  a  casserole  put  generous  layer  of  sliced  onion  saute, 
two  sliced  tomatoes  saute,  two  cups  of  mushrooms,  two 
cups  of  potato  balls,  and  a  little  fresh  parsley  also  saute. 
(All  the  vegetables  should  be  fried  in  butter).  On  top 
place,  breast  up,  a  squab  or  a  one-pound  chicken — one  for 
each  person.  On  each  breast  place  a  slice  of  crisp  fried 
bacon.  Over  all  pour  some  rich  well-seasoned  brown 
sauce,  filling  the  casserole  up  with  the  chicken  breasts — 
three-quarters  full — preferably  with  a  cup  of  sherry  added 
last,  if  your  cellar  will  still  produce  it ! 

Place  the  casserole  in  a  hot  oven,  uncovered.  When  the 
breasts  are  brown,  cool  oven  to  a  moderate  heat,  cover 
the  casserole  and  cook  for  two  hours.  Then  remove  the 
casserole  and  serve  from  dish. 

The  result  is  an  epicurean  masterpiece. 


[i6o] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


LXXXII 


Richard  Barthelmess 


SPICED  GRAPES 

This  dish  is  always  reminiscent,  to  me,  of  low  New 
England  farmhouses,  with  green  blinds.  You  know  the 
kind — set  far  back  from  the  road,  among  tall  trees,  with 
hollyhocks,  and  rose  geraniums  and  old  fashioned  pinks 
in  the  garden.  When  I  see  such  a  house — and  I  can, 
sometimes,  by  closing  my  eyes — I  can  always  smell  the 
pungent  scent  of  spiced  grapes,  cooking  away  on  an  im- 
maculate kitchen  range. 

This  is  the  rule  for  making  spiced  grapes.  A  rule  that 
most  New  England  families  seem  to  follow. 

To  seven  pounds  of  grapes  there  should  be  added 
these  materials — three  pounds  of  granulated  sugar,  one 
cup  of  vinegar,  two  tablespoonsful  of  ground  cinnamon, 
and  one  tablespoonful  of  ground  cloves. 

Weigh  the  grapes,  wash  and  pulp  them.  Cook  the  pulp 
until  the  seeds  are  loosened — then  press  the  mass  through 
a  sieve.  Cook  the  skins  just  as  long  as  you  cook  the 
pulps.  Put  them  on  the  same  stove,  but  in  separate 
kettles.  Add  the  strained  pulps  to  the  skins,  then  vinegar, 
sugar,  and  spices.    And  cook  until  the  mixture  thickens. 

This,  when  served  with  cold  meat,  changes  a  common- 
place supper  of  left-overs  into  a  feast. 

[i6i] 


THE   STAG   COOK   BOOK 


LXXXIII 

L)on  Juan  y  Gayangos 

(Ambassador  to  the  United  States,  from  Spain) 

EGG  PLANT  AU  GRATIN 

Peel  the  egg  plant. 

Whiten  it  in  salty  water,  and  dry. 

Fry,  in  butter,  with  salt  sprinkled  on  each  piece. 

Place  in  a  dish  with  grated  cheese,  tomato  sauce,  and 
mushrooms,  which  have  been  cut  into  small  pieces  and  put 
thickly  between  the  layers  of  egg  plant. 

Bake,  until  well  cooked,  in  a  moderate  oven. 


[162] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


LXXXIV 

Samuel  G.  Blythe 

TRIPE  A  LA  MODE  DE  CAEN  A  LA  ROY 
CARRUTHERS 

Only  an  artist  should  attempt  to  make  Tripe  a  la 
Mode  de  Caen  because  only  an  artist  can  make  it.  It 
requires  the  soul  of  a  poet,  the  spirit  of  a  painter,  and 
the  exaltation  of  a  violin  virtuoso  in  the  maker  as  a  pre- 
requisite for  its  concoction.  Of  course,  it  may  be  eaten 
by  the  commonalty,  but  it  is  too  good  for  them.  It  really 
is  a  dish  for  the  intelligentsia. 

There  are  not  more  than  a  dozen  people  in  the  United 
States  who  have  the  temperament  and  the  touch  required. 
One  of  these  is  Roy  Carruthers.  And  herewith,  as  my 
favorite  recipe,  I  set  down  the  complicated  but  necessary, 
procedure  for  producing  this  work  of  art: 

Take  four  pounds  of  fresh  honeycomb  tripe  and  one 
pound  of  fresh  manyplies  tripe  (the  thickest  part)  and 
wash  thoroughly  in  many  changes  of  fresh  water.  Drain 
well,  and  scrape  to  have  all  absolutely  clean.  Take  two 
calf's  feet  and  carefully  bone  each  foot  and  cut  into  pieces 
two  inches  square.  Have  a  large  earthen  pot,  scrupulously 
clean,  and  line  sides  and  bottom  of  this  pot  with  very 
thin  slices  of  larding  pork.  Place  tripe  and  cut  up  feet 
in  pot. 

[163] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

Add  two  small  red  carrots,  two  white  onions  with  two 
cloves  stuck  in  each,  and  half  of  a  sound,  seeded  pepper. 
Make  a  bouquet  of  tv\'o  leeks,  two  branches  of  celery,  three 
branches  of  parsley,  and  a  sprig  of  thyme,  marjoram,  a 
blade  of  mace  and  a  bay  leaf — only  one.  Put  this  bouquet 
in  the  pot  and  pour  in  a  half  pint  of  white  wine,  a  pint 
of  cider  and  a  quart  of  consomme  or  white  broth.  Season 
with  a  full  teaspoon  of  salt  and  half  a  spoon  of  black 
pepper. 

Now  make  a  stiff  dough  with  a  pound  of  white  flour 
and  two  gills  of  water,  roll  out  on  a  table  until  you  have 
enough  to  cover  the  pot,  and  cover  closely,  making  sure 
there  can  be  no  evaporation. 

Place  pot  in  a  very  slow  oven  and  cook  for  fifteen  hours. 

Then  lift  up  the  cover,  skim  off  the  fat,  and  remove 
the  bouquet  of  herbs  and  the  vegetables. 

Chop  together  six  shallots,  or  scallions  if  shallots  are 
not  procurable,  the  red  part  of  a  carrot,  a  bean  of  sound 
garlic,  two  ounces  of  raw  ham  and  an  ounce  of  raw  lean 
pork.  Place  this  hash  in  a  saucepan  with  a  tablespoon 
of  melted  butter,  cook  gently  on  the  fire  for  five  minutes, 
stirring  lightly,  and  then  pour  in  half  a  gill  of  cognac  and 
let  it  reduce  briskly  until  it  is  nearly  dry. 

Put  the  contents  of  the  pot  on  the  saucepan,  add  a  gill 
of  pure  tomato  juice,  mix  lightly  with  a  wooden  spoon, 
and  cook  slowly  for  forty-five  minutes. 

Then  dress  the  tripe  on  a  deep  hot  dish,  sprinkle  a  little 
freshly  chopped  parsley  over  and  send  to  table  very  hot 
with  twelve  slices  of  toasted  French  bread. 

That  is  real  Tripe  a  la  mode  de  Caen.  All  others  are 
imitations. 

[164] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


LXXXV 

Charles  H.  Taylor 

CLAM  CHOWDER 

Try  out  salt  pork.  Take  out  the  scraps.  Cut  up  onions 
and  fry  them  in  the  pork  fat  until  they  are  a  golden  brown. 
Open  clams  and  save  all  the  clam  water.  (Most  chefs 
steam  the  clams  first  because  they  are  so  much  easier  to 
handle,  but  if  you  want  the  real  flavor  you  want  to  shell 
the  clams,  wash  the  meat  over  carefully  and  let  the  clam 
water  settle  and  dip  it  out  instead  of  pouring  it  into  your 
kettle  so  as  to  leave  out  the  sand.) 

Add  to  the  onions  enough  hot  water  to  cover  them,  put 
in  clam  water  and  the  bellies  of  the  clams.  Cook  until 
the  bellies  of  the  clams  have  practically  disappeared  (about 
two  hours) .  Then  add  whatever  more  hot  water  is  neces- 
sary, add  the  rest  of  your  clam  meat,  after  having  first 
cut  off  the  black  end  of  the  head,  and  run  the  meat 
through  the  coarsest  cutting  disk  of  your  meat  grinder. 
Cook  until  clams  are  very  nearly  done  and  then  add  your 
sliced  white  potato.  Cook  again  until  the  potatoes  are 
done.  Then  add  whatever  milk  you  put  in  and  let  it 
come  to  a  boil.  Put  into  the  chowder  what  we  call 
Boston  cracker.  They  are  shaped  like  a  water  cracker 
only  they  are  soft.  Split  them  in  halves.  These  will 
soften  up  immediately  and  you  can  then  serve  your 
chowder. 

[165] 


THE    STAG   COOK   BOOK 

Do  not  use  any  flour  for  thickening.  If  the  chowder 
is  prepared  and  the  bellies  of  the  clams  cooked  as  above, 
this  will  make  the  broth  thicken  up. 


[i66] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


LXXXVI 

Cyrus  H.  K.  Curtis 

BAKED  BEANS 
{My  Favorite  Dish) 

To  prepare  Mr.  Curtis'  favorite  food  is  no  difficult 
task  and  any  number  of  methods  original  and  otherwise 
may  be  followed. 

For  the  best  results  have  a  large  covered  bean  pot  and 
the  rest  is  easy. 

Select  fine  white  or  navy  beans.  Wash  them  thoroughly 
and  let  them  soak  in  clear  water  for  several  hours — most 
folks  soak  them  all  night. 

Place  the  beans  in  the  pot  with  several  pieces  of  salt 
pork  (with  fat),  cover  with  water  slightly  salted.  Put 
the  lid  on  the  pot  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  done. 
That's  plain  baked  beans. 

Chili  sauce  or  tomato  catsup  or  chopped  tomatoes  may 
be  added  to  taste. 

Look  at  the  beans  occasionally  and  add  water  if  they 
seem  too  dry  or  in  danger  of  burning. 

Another  method  which  produces  wonderful  results  is 
to  omit  the  pork  and  tomato  preparations  and  add  gener- 
ous lumps  of  butter  and  brown  sugar — better  still,  add 
genuine  sorghum  molasses.     When  you   do  it  this  way 

[167] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


be  extra  careful  to  see  that  just  enough  water  is  added 
in  small  quantities  to  prevent  burning. 

Always  remove  from  the  oven  w^hile  the  beans  are 
still  w^hple.  If  baked  too  long  they  w^ill  break  up.  The 
time  necessary  for  baking  will  vary  according  to  the  heat 
of  the  oven  and  the  length  of  time  the  beans  were  soaked. 


[168] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


LXXXVII 


Frederick  Arnold  Kummer 


SPAGHETTI  DIABOLIQUE 

Brown  one  and  a  half  pounds  top  plate  of  beef  in  half 
a  cup  of  boiling  olive  oil  for  one  hour,  turning  frequently. 
Mince  the  shells  of  four  sweet  peppers,  one  bunch  of 
celery,  one  bunch  of  parsley,  three  large  onions,  two  sec- 
tions of  clove  garlic,  add  a  salt-spoonful  of  ground  thyme, 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  of  black  pepper  and  red  pepper 
to  taste.  Add  one  quart  of  tomatoes,  pour  over  the  beef, 
cook  for  an  hour,  add  a  pint  of  water  and  cook  slowly 
for  two  hours  more. 

To  make  the  spaghetti :  Measure  a  quart  of  flour,  break 
in  yolks  of  three  eggs,  add  three  half  eggshells  full  of 
ice  water,  work  to  the  proper  consistency,  roll  and  cut  into 
thin  strips.  When  dry  cook  in  boiling  salted  water  for 
twenty  minutes. 

Place  spaghetti  in  the  center  of  a  dish,  pour  the  sauce 
and  shredded  meat  around  it,  and  serve. 


Editor's  Note: — From  the  several  "favorite  dishes"  of 
spaghetti  mentioned  in  this  volume  it  would  seem  that  there 
is  a  decided  male  preference  for  this  particular  article  of  diet. 
Mr.  Kummer  goes  the  limit  and  tells  how  to  make  the 
spaghetti,  itself! 

[169] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


LXXXVIII 

Albert  D.  Lasker 

CHICKEN  PAPRIKA 

Say  a  five  pound  chicken — do  it  this  way  and  see  how 
you  like  it. 

Sh'ce  four  small  onions.  Put  one-sixth  pound  of  butter 
into  pan,  add  onions  and  let  cook  over  fire  until  soft  and 
a  light  brown  in  color.  Add  two  teaspoonsful  of  paprika 
and  put  in  the  chicken  piece  by  piece,  fitting  into  kettle; 
add  i^  tablespoonsful  of  salt,  cover  tightly  and  cook 
until  soft  (two  hours  or  more).  Remove  the  chicken, 
and  into  the  gravy  add  \y!\  tablespoonsful  of  canned 
tomatoes;  shake  in  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  stir  well; 
add  Y^  pint  of  sour  cream  and  stir  well  over  the  fire. 
Strain  over  the  chicken;  heat  again  and  serve. 


[170] 


WRITTEN    FOR   MEN    BY   MEN 


LXXXIX 

Henry  van  Dyke 

FISH  CHOWDER 

I  will  say  that  I  like  to  cook  (and  if  I  have  good 
luck,  to  eat)  a  dish  for  which  the  following  is  the  recipe: 

First  catch  your  fish  with  hook  and  line, — salmon,  trout 
or  bass,  cod,  haddock  or  blue-fish.  Then  obtain  a  good 
sized  kettle  and  put  into  it,  first  a  layer  of  sliced  potatoes, 
then  a  fine  sprinkling  of  fine  sliced  onion,  then  a  layer 
of  fat  pork  cut  into  small  cubes,  then  a  layer  of  fish, 
skinned  and  sliced,  then  a  layer  of  crackers  or  thin  pilot 
biscuit.  Sprinkle  salt  and  pepper  on  each  layer  according 
to  taste.  Repeat  the  layers  from  three  to  five  times 
according  to  the  size  of  your  kettle.  Fill  the  pot  mod- 
erately full  with  water  and  put  it  on  the  fire  to  cook 
slowly.  If  the  water  gets  low  replenish  it.  You  can 
tell  when  the  dish  is  done  by  testing  the  potatoes  or  the 
fish  with  a  fork.  As  a  rule  it  should  take  about  an  hour 
to  cook.  Just  before  the  end  put  in  two  or  three  cupfuls 
of  milk.  If  your  taste  is  slightly  vitiated  by  contact  with 
the  world  you  may  add  a  double  spoonful  of  some  spicy 
sauce.    But  for  my  part  I  like  a  chowder  best  cm  natureL 


[171] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


xc 


Macklyn  Arbuckle 

SOUTHERN  GUMBO  A  LA  "COUNTY 
CHAIRMAN" 

A  year-old  fowl.     Joint  it  as  you  would  for  frying. 

Soup  kettle  ready  on  the  back  of  the  stove  with  cold 
water. 

Then,  the  frying  pan — 

About  one-half  dozen  thin  slices  of  the  best  bacon. 
Reserve  this  for  the  kettle  later. 

Bacon  fat  in  the  frying  pan — fry  the  chicken  very 
brown.  As  soon  as  each  piece  of  chicken  is  brown  place 
it  in  the  kettle — then  put  the  kettle  over  the  fire.  Let 
it  boil. 

Add  six  small  onions  or  three  large  ones.  Sliced  and 
fried  in  the  bacon  grease. 

Onions  fried  golden  brown. 

Then  to  the  onions  add  a  can  of  tomatoes  or  the  equiv- 
alent of  sliced  tomatoes. 

Keep  stirring  from  the  bottom  to  prevent  burning. 

All  must  cook  until  it  has  thickened. 

While  cooking  add  chili  peppers  cut  fine,  green  peppers 
the  same,  also  okra. 

Add  one  or  two  large  bay  leaves  and  season  to  taste 
with  salt  and  pepper. 
[172] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 

Onions,  tomatoes  and  peppers  should  be  added  to  the 
chicken  in  the  kettle  when  they  have  cooked  sufficiently. 

If  fresh  okra  is  not  available  use  the  best  canned  kind. 

About  ten  minutes  before  the  Gumbo  Is  ready  add — 

One  can  of  Golden  Bantam  Corn. 

To  serve  w^Ith  the  Gumbo  have  a  dish  of  perfectly 
cooked  rice.  You  may  use  the  same  general  formula  for 
Crab  or  Oyster  Gumbo.  A  Combination  Salad  Is  about 
the  only  thing  worth  serving  with  Gumbo.  Although 
you  might  wash  It  down  with  a  bottle  of  PRE-WAR  IM- 
PORTED CLARET— HELP!!!! 


[173] 


THE   STAG    COOK   BOOK 


xci 


John   Taintor  Foote 

MORELS  SAUTE 

There  is  a  dish — a  gastronomical  ecstasy — the  faintest 
conception  of  which  is  magnificently  beyond  the  pen.  The 
fork  is  the  one  utensil  that  can  convey  to  the  uninitiated 
the  unique,  the  utterly  sublime  flavor  of  Morels  saute. 

A  Morel  is — in  the  vernacular  of  the  countryside — a 
sponge  mushroom.  It  is  to  be  found  in  ancient,  unplowed 
orchards  during  the  pastel  phase  of  spring  when  apple 
trees  blossom  and  bees  zoom  and  bumble  and  hum  in  a 
languid  shower  of  pink  and  white  petals. 

Close  to  a  girthy  apple  tree,  scabrous  with  age,  pock- 
marked by  the  bills  of  countless  woodpeckers,  the  Morels, 
now  and  then — alas,  it  is  only  now  and  then — poke  up 
through  the  cold,  damp,  chocolate-colored  earth  and  flour- 
ish shyly  for  a  fortnight  or  so. 

A  full  day's  tramping  through  orchard  after  orchard 
may  win  perhaps  two  dozen  of  these  tiny  sponges  that 
have  absorbed  the  very  essence  of  spring.  They  are  al- 
most the  exact  color  of  the  matted,  winter-killed  grass  in 
which  they  nestle  to  defy  all  but  the  most  careful  search- 
ing. A  full  day's  work  for  each  two  dozen,  but  never 
was  a  day's  wage  more  ample,  more  exquisitely  satis- 
fying. 

[174] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 

Take  the  hard-won  double  dozen  home.  Give  them  in 
reverent  silence  to  the  cook.  She  knows — if,  by  the  grace 
of  God,  she  was  with  you  so  long  ago  as  the  previous 
spring — just  what  to  do.  She  will  plop  the  Morels  into 
well  salted  water,  there  to  remain  the  night  through.  In 
the  morning  she  will  place  them  in  a  colander  to  drain 
for  half  an  hour.  She  will  then  transfer  them  to  a  fry- 
ing pan  of  hot  butter,  where  they  will  sputter  and  sizzle 
for  twenty  minutes.  During  that  twenty  minutes  there 
will  waft  into  the  living  room,  where  you  are  making 
a  pitiful  pretense  of  reading  the  morning  paper,  an  odor 
straight  from  the  kitchens  of  heaven. 

You  throw  down  the  newspaper  and  burst  with  glar- 
ing eyes  into  the  dining  room.  You  seat  yourself  at  the 
table  and  fiddle  wildly  with  knife  and  fork  and  spoon. 
.  .  .  Years  later  the  waitress  appears  with  a  dish  and  then 
— I  faint — I  swoon — I  cannot  go  on  I 


[175] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


XCII 


Maurice  Francis  Egan 

A  DIPLOMATIST'S  RECEIPT  FOR  WELSH 
RABBIT 

I  have  no  hesitation  in  saying  that  my  recipe  for  Welsh 
Rabbit  is  the  best  yet  invented.  It  has  an  international 
reputation.  It  has  been  eaten  with  gusto  by  Russians, 
Turks  and  some  Englishmen  who,  strange  to  say,  are 
distinguished  gourmets.  There  have  been  Frenchmen  who 
were  too  reserved,  perhaps,  in  their  praise  of  it,  but  then 
it  must  be  remembered  that  Welsh  rabbit  is  not  sym- 
pathetic with  the  Gallic  temperament.  The  French  pre- 
fer timbales  de  fromage. 

Put  a  large  chafing  dish  over  the  hot  water  pan  In 
which  the  water  must  be  bo'llng.  Never  let  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  heat  change  for  a  moment;  therefore  a  big 
alcohol  lamp  is  preferable.  Grate  ordinary  cheese  or  cut 
it  into  the  shape  of  dice.  Drop  in  a  lump  of  butter  of 
the  size  of  an  English  walnut.  Pour  into  the  pan  a  pint 
of  near  beer  or  near  Budweiser.  Slightly  heat  it.  In  the 
old  days  musty  ale  was  everything.  To-day  the  symbol 
of  beer  is  almost  sufficient.  Drop  in  a  half  teaspoonful 
of  strong  red  pepper  and  then  a  tablespoonful  of  paprika, — 
paprika  being  merely  a  flavor  and  not  a  condiment.  Keep 
the  beer  hot ;  then  drop  two  tablespoons  of  Worcestershire 

[176] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 

sauce,  a  tablespoon  of  catsup  and  a  half  teaspoon  of  mus- 
tard. When  this  mixture  boils,  put  in  the  cheese  and 
stir  in  one  direction  until  the  mixture  assumes  the  con- 
sistency of  cream. 

Use  the  thick  plates  sold  in  the  department  stores  espe- 
cially for  Welsh  Rabbit.  Have  them  heated  so  that  the 
cheese  will  sizzle  when  it  touches  them.  Have  ready  a 
sufficient  number  of  pieces  of  toasted  bread,  the  crust 
carefully  cut  off.  When  the  cheese  is  sufficiently  plastic, 
dip  a  round  of  toast  into  it,  let  it  remain  for  a  second, 
transfer  it  to  the  hot  plate  and  at  once  ladle  the  mixture 
in  the  pan  over  the  toast  with  neatness  and  dispatch  and 
you  will  have  an  unprecedented  success,  if  no  conversation 
is  permitted  until  the  rabbit  is  eaten.  The  sound  of  a 
human  voice  lowers  its  temperature.  Coffee  or  tea  must 
never  be  partaken  of  until  the  morsels  are  disposed  of. 
During  the  eating  process,  Budweiser  is  a  substitute  for 
the  real  thing — ^which  was  musty  ale  or  the  Dog's  Head 
variety. 


[177] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


XCIII 


Livingston  Farrand 

SAUSAGE  AND  GRIDDLE  CAKES 

I  think  I  would  say  that  my  favorite  dish  is  sausage 
and  griddle  cakes  for  breakfast  on  a  cold  winter  morning. 
I  would  call  attention  to  the  fact  that  the  sausages  should 
be  in  cake  form  and  not  in  skins  and  that  the  griddle  cakes 
should  be  of  wheat  flour.  I  am  sure  there  are  millions 
of  Americans  who.  agree  with  me. 


Editor's  Note: — Here  is  the  best  of  a  dozen  tried  recipes 
for  the  cakes. 

To  one  cup  of  Hecker's,  or  any  excellent  self-raising  flour 
(not  pancake!)  add  a  full  half  cup  of  milk  and  a  beaten  egg 
mixed  together.  A  little  cream  will  help  at  this  point,  but  it 
isn't  absolutely  necessary. 

Melt,  now,  a  lump  of  butter  the  size  of  a  good  big  walnut 
and  stir  it  into  the  mixtu»e.  Beat  for  a  moment  and  if  the 
consistency  does  not  seem  just  right  add  a  shade  more  of 
milk  or  flour.  The  mixture  or  batter  should  be  about  as 
thick  as  molasses  in  the  winter  time. 

For  the  very  perfection  in  results  bake  the  cakes  on  a 
soapstone  griddle  and  serve  with  the  best  maple  syrup  ob- 
tainable. 

This  recipe  can  be  safely  doubled  any  number  of  times  and 
then  some !  As  above  it  serves  two  unless  more  are  desired, 
in  which  case  it  is  easy  to  duplicate  in  no  time. 

[178] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


xciv 


F.  Ziegfe/d^  Jr. 


LITTLE  CHICKEN  TARTS 

Here  is  a  dish  that  I  am  very  fond  of  and  It  is  really 
very  easy  to  prepare.  The  tart  molds  may  be  purchased 
already  made,  which  simplifies  things  somewhat  if  you 
do  not  want  to  bother  with  the  dough,  but  in  case  you 
cannot  get  them  here  is  the  whole  process  and  I  can  vouch 
for  the  results. 

2       cups  of  chopped  chicken  (cooked)  or  one  large  can 
Chicken  a  la  King 
3^  cup  evaporated  milk 
2       eggs 

1  onion 

2  cups  sifted  flour 
]/2  cup  shortening 
y2  cup  water 

I       teaspoonful  salt 
Pepper 
Parsley 
Ice  water 

Mix  salt  and  flour— cut  in  the  chilled  shortening  with 
two  knives  until  the  mixture  Is  as  fine  as  meal.  With  a 
broad-bladed  knife  stir  in  ice  water  slowly  until  dough 
clings  around  knife  in  a  ball,  leaving  sides  of  bowl  per- 

[179] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


fectly  clean.  Toss  dough  on  floured  bread  board.  Flour 
the  rolling  pin  and  roll  it  out  very  thin.  Keep  the  pin 
well  floured.  Rub  the  outside  of  patty  pans  or  jelly  molds 
with  a  little  shortening  and  lay  dough  over  these  smoothly, 
bringing  it  well  over  the  edge.  Bake  upside  down  for 
about  ten  minutes  in  a  hot  oven.  If  Chicken  a  la  King 
is  used  for  a  filling  it  will  not  require  any  special  prepara- 
tion, but  if  you  really  want  to  cook,  and  you  use  the  cold 
chicken,  proceed  as  follows: 

Cut  the  chicken  in  small  pieces,  but  do  not  mince. 
Mince  onion  and  cook  until  slightly  brown  in  a  little  but- 
ter. Stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  add  milk  and  water. 
When  smooth  add  chicken  and  season  to  taste.  When 
bubbling  take  from  the  fire  and  stir  in  the  slightly  beaten 
eggs.  Let  cool,  then  fill  the  pastry  shells.  The  remainder 
of  the  pastry  dough  should  have  been  kept  in  the  ice 
box.  Get  it  out.  Roll  it  thin  as  before.  Cut  in  round 
pieces  to  cover  the  tops  of  the  tarts.  Wet  the  edges 
of  the  tarts  with  cold  water;  press  on  the  covers,  bringing 
the  edges  well  down  as  they  shrink  a  bit  in  baking.  Slit 
the  tops  before  putting  on.  Press  the  edges  with  tines 
of  fork.    Garnish  with  parsley. 


[180] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


xcv 


Harold  Lloyd 

LEMON  LAYER  CAKE 

This,  when  properly  gummy,  is  as  good  for  a  comedian 
to  throw  as  a  custard  pie.  Only  it's  too  good  for  that 
sort  of  treatment — which  sounds  rather  like  an  Irish  bull! 

The  layer  cake  doesn't  interest  me  especially.  After 
all,  it's  only  an  excuse  for  the  frosting.  Any  sort  of  layer 
cake  recipe  will  answer — and,  according  to  the  best  cook 
I  know,  my  grandmother — there  are  a  hundred  such 
recipes.  It's  the  filling  that  I  find  important.  Here  is 
the  rule,  and  it  sounds  too  simple  to  be  true! 

Take  one  beaten  ^<gg,  one  cup  of  sugar,  the  juice  and 
grated  rind  of  one  lemon.  Mix  them  all  together,  hit 
or  miss,  and  place  them  in  a  double  boiler  over  a  hot  fire. 
Cook  until  the  mixture  begins  to  get  very  thick,  stirring 
constantly.  Then  take  from  the  stove  and  beat  until  the 
whole  assumes  a  creamy  texture.  Spread  between  the 
layers  of  any  cake.  This  recipe  makes  enough  filling  for 
two  thin  layers,  or  one  thick  one — which  I  prefer.  It  can 
be  doubled,  tripled,  and  so  on — ad  infinitum — depending 
entirely  upon  the  number  of  layers  in  the  cake. 

Editor's  Note: — This  is  a  good,  and  unusual,  recipe  for 
layer  cake.  To  two  eggs,  well  beaten,  add  gradually  one  cup 
of  granulated  sugar.    To  one  cup  of  unsifted  flour  add  one 

[i8i] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 


teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar  and  one  half  teaspoonful  of  soda. 
Sift.  Then  add  one  half  cup  of  boiling  milk  with  one  tea- 
spoonful of  melted  butter  in  it,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 
The  mixture  will  be  almost  like  batter,  and  shoul,d  be  baked 
in  two  layers. 


[182] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


XCVI 


Luther  Burbank 

TURKEY  A  LA  BURBANK 

*'The  best  ever!*  * 

For  an  ordinary  ten-pound  turkey  steam  lYi  hours  or 
until  the  muscles  of  the  leg  can  be  readily  pierced  with  a 
dining  fork.  Take  steamer  from  the  fire  and  carefully 
remove  the  turkey  to  the  roasting  pan. 

Meantime,  prepare  the  dressing  as  follows:  One  loaf 
of  bread,  ordinary  baker's  size,  or  same  amount  of  other 
bread,  slice  and  toast  slowly  but  thoroughly  to  a  light 
golden  color;  while  hot,  spread  butter  on  each  slice  just 
as  a  hungry  boy  would  like  it.  Place  in  a  deep  dish. 
The  cooked  giblets,  which,  with  the  juice  of  one  lemon 
and  three  whole  large  onions,  should  be  ground  all  together 
in  a  meat  grinder  with 

I       teaspoon  salt 
^         "         cayenne  pepper 

1  "         powdered  sage 

2  "         summer  savory 
2  tablespoons  sugar 

These  should  be  well  sifted  and  then  added   to   the 

*  Mr.  Burbank  says  so  himself.  If  he  said  he  could  make 
turkey  look  and  taste  like  brook  trout,  he  probably  could. 

[183] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

ground  vegetables  and  giblets,  and  with  the  meat  juice 
saved  from  steaming,  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  bread  and 
all  cut  and  mashed  to  about  the  consistency  of  thick  mush. 
After  filling,  the  turkey  should  be  placed  in  an  oven 
not  too  hot,  and  slowly  roasted  an  hour  or  more. 

Prepared  as  above,  little  or  no  basting  will  be  necessary, 
but  a  few  thin  slices  of  bacon  laid  over  the  fowl  will  add 
flavor.  Add  no  oysters,  eggs,  chestnuts  or  other  abomina- 
tions. 


[184] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


XCVII 


Raymond  McKee 


TO  COOK  RABBITS 

I  do  not  profess  to  be  a  cook  of  the  first  rank,  or  even 
the  fourth  or  ninth ;  but  when  it  comes  to  cooking  rabbits 
I'll  put  on  the  kitchen  apron  with  any  cook,  amateur  or 
professional,  in  the  country — (managers,  please  note!). 
And  I'll  abide  by  the  decision  of  any  judge  of  rabbit 
flesh. 

Out  In  California,  where  I  live  most  of  the  time  on 
my  mountain  yacht,  you  can  get  a  lot  of  rabbits  by  shoot- 
ing them — if  you  are  good.  But  it's  easier  to  buy  them, 
and  they  taste  the  same. 

To  cook  a  rabbit  right  do  it  this  way:  First — get  the 
rabbit,  clean  and  cut  into  six  pieces.  Soak  the  pieces  in 
salt  water  for  several  hours — I  usually  soak  'em  all  night 
and  right  up  to  the  time  for  cooking.  This  whitens  and 
improves  the  meat. 

When  you  are  ready  to  cook,  dry  the  pieces ;  roll  them 
in  a  beaten  egg  and  then  in  cracker  crumbs.  Put  the 
pieces  into  a  very  hot  pan  with  plenty  of  butter  and  fry  it 
to  a  golden  brown.  When  the  color  is  right  put  water 
into  the  pan  so  that  the  rabbit  is  about  half  covered. 
Cover  the  pan  with  a  tight  lid  and  steam  slowly  until 
the  water  is  all  gone.    Then  serve. 

[185] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

Now,  if  you  can  substitute  an  ordinary  claret  for  the 
salt  water  mentioned  first,  and  if  you  have  more  claret  in 
which  to  steam  the  fried  rabbit  you  may  know  the  per- 
fect dish! 


[i86] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


XCVIII 


JVill  Deming 

I  can  vouch  for  all  of  these : 


VIRGINIA  HAM 

Cover  an  eight-pound  ham  with  cold  water.  Add  a 
pint  of  cider  vinegar ;  one-half  pound  of  brown  sugar ;  six 
sticks  of  cinnamon  and  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  cloves. 
Let  this  boil  for  four  hours.  Push  back  on  the  stove  and 
let  it  stay  all  night.  In  the  morning  skin  it  and  put  it  in 
a  hot  oven  for  half  an  hour. 


LEMON  PIE 

The  filling:  In  a  cup  full  of  sugar  mix  thoroughly  a 
heaping  tablespoonful  and  one-half  of  flour.  Grate  the 
skin  of  one  lemon,  and  add  the  juice.  Then  add  the  yolks 
of  two  eggs  and  a  cup  of  water,  also  a  pinch  of  salt.  Stir 
this  thoroughly,  all  together.  Put  into  a  double  boiler 
and  let  it  cook  until  it  is  thick  and  smooth.  Then  pour 
it  into  the  cooked  pie  crust.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  water 
to  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  and  a  pinch  of  salt.  Then  beat 
until  stiff.  Cover  your  pie  with  this  mixture  and  then 
sprinkle  granulated  sugar  on  top  of  the  meringue.    Don't 

[187] 


THE    STAG   COOK   BOOK 


mix  the  sugar  and  the  meringue.     Put  under  the  broiler 
to  brown. 

The  crust:  Mix  two  good  sized  tablespoonfuls  of  lard 
with  one  and  a  half  cups  of  flour.  Mix  this  with  your 
fingers  thoroughly,  until  it  feels  like  corn  meal,  although 
much  larger.  Add  ice  water  until  the  mixture  holds  to- 
gether; then  roll  on  a  floured  board.  In  baking  the 
crust  for  a  lemon  pie,  either  puncture  the  crust  all  over 
with  a  fork  or  bake  it  on  the  outside  of  your  pie  tin. 
This  will  keep  the  crust  from  creeping. 

A  DRESSING 

(For  stuffed  tomatoes,  cold  meat  or  potato  salad.) 

Melt  a  large  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Add  a  saucer 
of  vinegar  to  the  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Then  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  dry  mustard  and  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar.  Stir 
the  mixture — sugar  and  eggs — into  the  vinegar;  then  add 
it  to  the  butter  which  you  have  on  the  stove,  melting. 
Keep  stirring  this  until  it  gets  thick,  and  remember  that 
it  will  be  much  thicker  when  it  is  cold.  In  case  you  wish 
to  use  this  for  potato  salad,  don't  make  it  very  thick. 


[i88] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


xcix 


Charles  W^.    Chessar 

("Beefsteak  Charlie") 

TIPS  ON  STEAK 

"Why  can't  we  have  steaks  like  this  one  when  we  dine 
at  home?"  Thousands  of  people  have  asked  me  that 
question  during  the  eight  years  that  have  given  a  real 
significance  to  the  sobriquet,  "Beefsteak  Charlie." 

And  my  honest  answer  to  that  question  has  always 
been:  "You  cant — unless  your  butcher  is  willing  to  hang 
your  beef  for  four  or  five  weeks — and  then  you  probably 
would  not  want  to  buy  it  because  of  its  appearance." 

Many  people  ask  me  how  to  cook  a  steak.  There  is 
really  no  secret  about  the  way  it  should  be  done — but 
most  home  cooks  put  the  steak  into  a  cold  broiler  and 
light  the  fire.  That  is  fatal!  And  it  is  just  as  fatal  if 
the  fire  has  only  been  burning  a  few  minutes.  The 
broiler  should  burn  full  tilt  for  some  time — until  it  is 
blazing  hot.  Then  introduce  your  steak  and  let  the  in- 
tense heat  of  the  broiler  seal  it  instantly.  If  there  is  a 
secret,  that's  it ! 

But  keep  this  in  mind:  the  most  careful  broiling  will 
not  help  if  the  beef  is  too  fresh.  Fresh  beef  simply  will 
not  do  if  you  want  the  real  thing.  Buy  the  choicest  cuts 
of  sirloin  or  porterhouse  from  beef  that  has  been  hung  at 

[189] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

least  four  weeks;  broil  in  the  way  I  have  described  and 
your  dinner  guests  will  register  many  polite  hints  for  an- 
other invitation.  I  might  add  that  if  the  beef  is  right 
you  will  not  have  to  worry  about  a  sauce.  Butter,  salt, 
and  pepper  will  properly  dress  the  finest  steak  in  the 
world. 


[190] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY   MEN 


Arthur  T.  Vance 

SALADE  A  LA  TURC 

I  don't  profess  to  shine  much  as  a  cook.  I  would 
rather  have  somebody  do  it  for  me,  but  there  are  one  or 
two  things  that  I  sometimes  like  to  fix  on  my  own  hook. 

Years  ago  there  was  some  sort  of  a  Centennial  Exposi- 
tion out  in  Nashville,  Tenn.  I  don't  remember  what 
they  had  to  celebrate,  but  at  any  rate  I  had  to  take  it  in. 
I  didn't  know  a  soul  and  good  old  Al  Williams,  the  snake 
man — who  died  last  year — gave  me  a  letter  of  introduc- 
tion to  the  Turk  who  ran  the  Hoochy-Koochy  show  on 
the  midway.  It  is  the  only  time  I  ever  used  a  letter  of 
introduction  with  efficiency  and  delectation.  This  Turk 
— who,  incidentally,  was  one  of  the  finest  looking  chaps  I 
ever  saw,  and  a  man  of  education — welcomed  me  with 
open  arms.  First  of  all  I  had  to  see  the  show,  and  I 
was  so  enthusiastic  about  the  gyrations  of  the  sumptuous 
beauties  that  he  did  me  the  great  honor  of  asking  me  to 
dine  with  him,  en  famille.  It  was  a  great  experience. 
All  the  Hoochy-koochy  dancers  were  there,  in  their  stage 
costumes,  with  ma  and  pa  and  mother-in-law,  and 
mother's  great  uncle  and  a  rabble  of  other  folks,  large  and 
small.  We  had  a  lot  of  funny  things  to  eat,  but  there 
was  one  dish  that  really  appealed  to  me.     They  called 

[191] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

it  "Salada"  and  I  ate  of  It  in  such  copious  portions  that 
my  friend,  the  Turk,  insisted  on  showing  me  how  it  was 
made.  I  have  made  It  many  times  since  for  my  own 
pleasure,  at  least — and  most  folk  who  try  it  once  will  try 
it  again. 

It  is  a  salad  of  ripe  tomatoes,  cucumbers  and  onions. 
The  main  point  is  that  you  must  not  slice  them  up  but 
— after  you  peel  your  onions,  cucumbers  and  tomatoes — 
put  them  whole  into  a  chopping  bowl,  and  chop  them  Into 
chunks  with  a  chopping  knife.  The  chunks  should  be 
about  as  large  as  the  end  of  your  thumb.  After  the 
chopping  operation,  put  the  whole  business  on  the  ice 
until  it  gets  good  and  cold.    Then  drain  off  the  juice. 

Add  a  sharp  French  dressing,  get  a  big  spoon  and  a 
plate  and  go  to  it.  If  it  doesn't  taste  good,  I'll  eat  it 
myself. 

PANDORA  FRENCH   DRESSING 

I  have  discovered  that  the  secret  of  French  dressing,  to 
my  way  of  thinking,  is  to  use  plenty  of  salt.  When  I 
make  it  at  home — say  for  five  or  six  people — I  take  an 
ordinary  salt  dish  or  saucer  and  cover  the  bottom  with  a 
lot  of  salt.  Add  black  pepper  and  some  of  that  Chili 
powder  that  comes  from  a  place  down  in  Texas.  This 
Chili  powder  has  a  better  flavor  than  paprika,  and  has  a 
sort  of  onion  taste  to  it,  but  don't  use  too  much  of  It. 
Then  I  cover  this  with  a  good  quantity  of  olive  oil  and 
beat  it  up  with  a  fork  until  it  gets  stiff.  It  is  a  good 
idea  to  have  the  olive  oil  cold.  Then  add  your  vinegar 
[192] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 

— good,  old-fashioned  cider  vinegar.  There  is  a  lot  of 
it  around  nowadays  because,  while  It  is  easy  to  turn  sweet 
cider  Into  hard,  it  is  a  good  deal  easier  to  turn  hard  cider 
into  vinegar.  You  add  the  vinegar  to  suit  your  taste — 
and  this  depends  a  good  deal  on  the  kind  of  salad  you  are 
going  to  have.  For  asparagus  I  like  the  dressing  a  little 
tart.  For  lettuce,  not  so  tart.  But  this  is  a  matter  you 
can  easily  adjust  to  your  own  satisfaction. 

WELSH  RABBIT  A  LA  MORGAN  ROBERTSON 

I  wonder  how  many  folk  who  read  these  pages  re- 
member Morgan  Robertson.  Poor  old  Morgan  is  dead 
and  gone,  now,  but  in  his  day  he  wrote  some  of  the  best 
sea  stories  ever  put  into  English.  He  used  to  keep  bach- 
elor hall  In  a  funny  little  studio  down  on  25th  Street, 
ofiE  Sixth  Avenue,  New  York — and  when  his  friends 
came  to  call  his  special  delight  was  a  Welsh  Rabbit.  He- 
told  me  how  to  make  it,  and  I  am  trying  to  pass  the 
recipe  on.  The  beauty  of  Robertson's  rabbit  was  that  it 
never  got  stringy. 

First  you  put  a  good-sized  lump  of  butter  into  a  chafing 
dish  and  let  it  sizzle.  Add  some  Coleman's  mustard  and 
paprika  and  stir  it  round  a  bit.  For  six  people  I  would 
use  two  pounds  of  cheese.  Real  old  New  York  State 
full  cream  cheese — none  of  this  odoriferous  imported  stuff. 
The  kind  of  cheese  they  used  to  make  down  on  the  farm. 
Cut  it  up  in  chunks  and  put  it  in  the  pan  with  a  little 
beer  (near  beer  will  do),  or  you  could  use  milk.  Keep 
adding  a  little  more  beer  as  the  cheese  commences  to  nelt 

[193] 


THE    STAG    COOK   BOOK 

and  put  in  a  little  Worcestershire  sauce,  if  you  like  it. 
When  it  is  well  melted  take  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of 
corn  starch,  mix  it  with  a  little  water,  and  mix  it  with 
the  mess.  Meanwhile  keep  stirring  it.  Let  it  bubble 
and  when  it  comes  to  the  consistency  of  pancake  batter 
(meanwhile  keep  stirring  it — you  can't  stir  it  too  much!) 
it  is  ready  to  serve.  And  please  serve  it  on  toasted  bread. 
If  there  is  anything  makes  me  tired,  it  is  to  have  Welsh 
Rabbit  served  on  crackers — it  isn't  the  same  thing.  Don't 
be  afraid  the  rabbit  will  get  stringy,  because  it  won't. 
Some  folks  put  the  corn  starch  in  dry,  instead  of  mixing 
it  with  water.  Either  way  is  right.  Season  it  to  suit 
yourself.  But  for  the  love  of  Mike  don't  beat  an  egg 
up  in  it.     That's  another  kind  of  fish  entirely. 


[194] 


WRITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


a 


Baron  de  Cartier 

(Ambassador  to  the  United  States  from  Belgium) 

WATERZOIE  DE  VOLAILLE 

Without  doubt  the  most  popular  national  dish  of  Bel- 
gium is  Waterzoie  de  Volaille — a  most  delectable  and 
satisfying  soup  of  chicken.  In  Brussels  the  dish  reaches 
perfection  under  the  magic  of  the  chef  of  the  famous  res- 
taurant the  "Filet  de  Sole,"  known  to  amateurs  of  good 
cooking  in  almost  every  country  of  Europe. 

I  am  going  to  tell  you  how  they  do  it  at  the  "Filet  de 
Sole."  First  of  course  you  will  secure  a  fine  young  fowl 
— chicken — and,  after  it  has  been  perfectly  cleaned  and 
dressed,  you  will  rub  it  well  with  a  piece  of  lemon.  Now 
cut  it  up  as  you  would  for  frying. 

Next  prepare  the  casserole  or  vessel  in  which  the 
soup  will  be  made  by  generously  buttering  the  sides  and 
bottom.  Over  the  bottom  of  the  vessel  place  a  bed  of  fine 
julienne  composed  of  one  third  of  fine  white  celery  (re- 
move all  fibers  or  "strings")  one-third  of  the  white  part 
of  leek  and  one-third  of  white  onion.  To  this  add  a 
bouquet  composed  of  a  half  leaf  of  laurel,  a  soupgon  of 
thyme  enclosed  in  a  few  roots  of  parsley,  the  roots  hav- 
ing been  well  scraped  and  washed. 

Upon  this  bed  place  the  pieces  of  chicken  and  over  the 

[195] 


THE    STAG   COOK   BOOK 


whole  pour  a  little  more  than  a  quart  of  dry  white  wine 
and  veal  broth — one  third  broth  and  two  thirds  wine. 
Water  may  be  used  instead  of  the  broth  but  the  latter 
is  preferable.  Season  with  kitchen  salt,  freshly  ground 
white  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  clove. 

Bring  the  mixture  to  the  boiling  point  and  allow  it  to 
simmer  and  steam  under  a  tight  cover  for  at  least  thirty- 
five  minutes. 

Take  out  the  bouquet  and  pass  the  roots  through  a 
metal  strainer.  The  extract  is  to  be  added  to  the  soup. 
Now  add  a  large  pinch  of  bread  crumbs. 

At  this  point  you  will  turn  the  soup  into  a  large  tureen 
and  quickly  add  the  rapidly  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs, 
two  wine  glasses  of  extra  thick  cream  and  a  few  thimble- 
fuls  of  fine  butter. 

Complete  the  liaison  by  adding  the  pieces  of  chicken 
and,  with  a  final  sprinkle  of  chopped  parsley,  the  Water- 
zoie  is  ready  for  the  table  and  for  your  delectation. 


'  [196] 


V/RITTEN    FOR    MEN    BY    MEN 


CII 


Dean  Corn  we  I  I 

SPAGHETTI-MY-STYLE 

After  thinking  over  all  of  the  dishes  that  I  like — 
searching  for  the  favorite — I  come  right  back  to  the  old 
standby,  Spaghetti,  and  am  forced  to  admit  that  it  is  my 
favorite. 

You  know  how  to  cook  the  spaghetti  itself,  I'm  sure,  so 
I  will  just  tell  you  how  to  make  the  sauce  that  I  con- 
cocted some  years  ago  and  you'll  like  it. 

Get  a  big  iron  kettle  and  put  into  it  a  lot  of  fine  beef 
cut  into  small  squares,  some  chopped  bacon,  dried  mush- 
rooms (the  kind  you  get  at  any  little  Italian  store)  a 
can  of  tomatoes  and  some  sliced  onions.  The  dried 
mushrooms  should  be  soaked  for  an  hour  or  two  before 
cooking. 

Cover  the  materials  with  plenty  of  water  and  season- 
with  salt,  brown  sugar,  and  Mexican  chili  powder.    Cook 
slowly  all  day — the  longer  the  better,  I  find. 

When  you  are  simply  famished  and  cannot  wait  any 
longer,  ladle  the  sauce  onto  the  steaming  hot  spaghetti 
and  enjoy  a  real  meal.  The  sauce  is  still  better,  in  my 
opinion,  when  warmed  up  the  second  day. 


[197] 


